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The Basics, Starting Out
Which is better bedding??
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<blockquote data-quote="osok-1k" data-source="post: 2158804" data-attributes="member: 106259"><p>I've been bedding rifles for over 40 years, the need arises because most stocks aren't true where the action rests and when you tighten the stock screws you tweak or flex the action out of square, some have been enough to have resistance while operating the bolt. A few years ago while building the rifle in my photo, a Curtis Axiom and MPA chassis, I found that when the front area of the action sat square in the block, the rear tang made almost no contact. When I snugged the screws it mad a little more contact which means that the receiver was drawn out of square (no longer straight) and this is totally unacceptable for me. I relieved the area of the tang so it made full contact and bedded the block at the tang, forward of the mag well and recoil lug. I put one layer of tape on the lug sides, front and two on the bottom of the lug, this allows the downward pressure applied by torqueing the screws be applied to the receiver and no pressure on the recoil lug. I also open the screw holes a little and wrap my pilot studs with tape or a plastic sleeve to keep the centered while curing. I use rubber bands for tension while curing as I want the action to be as neutral as possible with no flexing. My Grayboe stocks get the same treatment. If you assemble a rifle in an aluminum block stock like Grayboe or a chassis like MPA and go shoot some rounds. Take the action out and check the contact marks, you'll find inconsistent contact from side to side and fore and aft. If it's pretty even and you've properly torqued the receiver screws then you may not gain much, but I will always bed the recoil lug unless I intend to switch actions for that stock. Reason is that receivers are not the same diameter, if you measure the diameter of your actions you'll find them all different and they won't seat properly in the bedded stock if you install a larger diameter action into a stock bedded for smaller diameter one. Recoil lug will be different too. If the stock makers squared the stock on a mill and ran a ball mill down the block after installing it in the stock you might have a true surface, but then the receiver would need to be true as well and many of the are not.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="osok-1k, post: 2158804, member: 106259"] I've been bedding rifles for over 40 years, the need arises because most stocks aren't true where the action rests and when you tighten the stock screws you tweak or flex the action out of square, some have been enough to have resistance while operating the bolt. A few years ago while building the rifle in my photo, a Curtis Axiom and MPA chassis, I found that when the front area of the action sat square in the block, the rear tang made almost no contact. When I snugged the screws it mad a little more contact which means that the receiver was drawn out of square (no longer straight) and this is totally unacceptable for me. I relieved the area of the tang so it made full contact and bedded the block at the tang, forward of the mag well and recoil lug. I put one layer of tape on the lug sides, front and two on the bottom of the lug, this allows the downward pressure applied by torqueing the screws be applied to the receiver and no pressure on the recoil lug. I also open the screw holes a little and wrap my pilot studs with tape or a plastic sleeve to keep the centered while curing. I use rubber bands for tension while curing as I want the action to be as neutral as possible with no flexing. My Grayboe stocks get the same treatment. If you assemble a rifle in an aluminum block stock like Grayboe or a chassis like MPA and go shoot some rounds. Take the action out and check the contact marks, you'll find inconsistent contact from side to side and fore and aft. If it's pretty even and you've properly torqued the receiver screws then you may not gain much, but I will always bed the recoil lug unless I intend to switch actions for that stock. Reason is that receivers are not the same diameter, if you measure the diameter of your actions you'll find them all different and they won't seat properly in the bedded stock if you install a larger diameter action into a stock bedded for smaller diameter one. Recoil lug will be different too. If the stock makers squared the stock on a mill and ran a ball mill down the block after installing it in the stock you might have a true surface, but then the receiver would need to be true as well and many of the are not. [/QUOTE]
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Which is better bedding??
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