Which .338 should I have built?

Ric Horst,

With all do respect I am an experienced hunter and former Marine, so I am well aware of the discipline it takes to make long-range shots. I have hunted with my .338 Win Mag for 11 years now and love this caliber. While I appreciate your opinions I am not interested in anything other than a .338 Edge or Lapua. As far as my "budget" goes I simply put the range there to challenge all of us to build an accurate big bore long-range .338 for a reasonable cost. I believe the budget is still pretty significant considering it is $2,500 without a scope.

And your right as far as reloading goes I am very new to this, but what better way to learn than to do it and learn from experts like you and others here on this site.

Thank you,
Brandon
lv2hunt
 
okey doakey... no disrespect, I wasn't saying disrespectful towards you... I was only trying to save your from some dissapointment and frustration. until your feet are wet.

I have been hunting all my life I have been guiding since 1998... but the LR game and reloading for it is a different animal altogether...

the 338 win mag. isn't an Edge or a Lapua... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
Ric Horst,
Thanks, for your comments. I appreciate your advice on what 700 actions to use.

Thank you,
lv2hunt
 
lv2hunt
Well their has been a lot of great info passed on in this thread. So I am curious as to which way you are leaning in your choice of a 338. As was stated earlier you have 2 very good calibers to choose from. Keep us posted as to which way you go and the deciding factor.
 
Lv2hunt I and five or more friends shoot the .338/300 RUM
most are built on 700 actions with standard stock but pillar bedded most are 30" barrels with a bit of free bore and shoot sub sub minute we don't have a war pention in our rifles.The only thing frustrating about these rifles was having to pay out the mahoo for factory loaded ammo to get brass this should tell you how long we have been shooting this caliber.My rifle and the others kick like a .270win at the most and after shooting the .338 win mag you will love it, oh we have muzzle brakes on our rifles.Long range shooting is not rocket science! loading accurate ammo is the same for any range just like a higer BC bullet for long range work.Get you an accurate rifle built and start experimenting with loading if you go with the .338/300 I have extensive data with many different bullet weights and will share this info with you and help in any way I can, so will most of the fellows on this forum.I haven't been able to hunt all of my life I had to milk and spread manure the first few months!!!
 
Was away for a bit so not ignoring your question. I noticed that you have decided on a big case 338. I like the RUM based one and have my own wildcat called the 338 Mystic.

Back to the question if a heavy 7mm bullet will do the job at 1000yds. yes, it most certainly will. The key is impact velocity vs bullet toughness. When that is in balance and the bullet arrives in the right place, animals die.

Am I infering that the 162gr 7mm is equal in hitting powder as a 300gr MK 338? Not in your life. That is big mojo. Do you need it? Up to you and your budget.

Just remember that you must have a barrel and case large enough to get over 2800fps with that 300gr slug. I am not enamored with the ballistics of lighter slugs. You still need impact velocity to make that bullet work. Failure to expand means you now have a 338 FMJ. Not much hitting power there (at this point the 7mm would work better!!!). Either of your choices WILL WORK in a long enough barrel.

now the tough part. Getting the right brake. Do not use a Vais style. Reason? You want the most effective brake you can install. With a "light" 338 cannon, you are going to have to deal with massive recoil. Even more important, you need to spot your shots. That brake better reduce recoil AND keep that muzzle down and/or going straight back.

You will be double plugged (you should be) so noise is not an issue.

Best designs are very wide fishgill type brake with no forward venting. Example would be the Micaluk/Holland or that ugly wonder on the AR50. I would suggest a brake at least 1.5" wide (2" better, 2.5" better still) and 3/8" vents and 1" thick. Three vents as a min. Angled backwards may not be a bad idea either.

If the rifle always bucks you off target, your ability to effectively LR hunt ALONE is greatly reduced. you can forget about the quick follow up shot because you will be busy trying to find the animal after coming down from recoil. In a few seconds, an animal that far away can move or duck behind anything and be lost. Now try and find it to track. Bad idea...

I want to see that bullet arrive, its affect, and where that animal moves to. Recovering the game is as important, more important, then the shot.

That is the main reason I suggested the fast 7mm and 30's. Way easier to tame that recoil and control that muzzle.

Whichever route you take, good luck and there is plenty of help here. Most here have owned most if not all the common LR boomers so have first hand experience of their requirements and limitations.

Ever consider the 270AM and the super heavy wildcat bullets? Another very effective option. See Fiftydrivers test drive in another post. I like that rig. Very useable parameters and would be right up your alley for type of rifle to fill your task. However, if you feel that heavy 7's to small, forget the 270.

When at the gunshow, consider a Savage or Stevens 110. They are great actions which can be built into rifles every bit as accurate as a Rem700 for 25% less. Bonus is there is an off the shelf long magnum mag box that can be swapped in to feed the RUM or Wby family of cartridges. If you buy one chambered in a RUM, bonus.

Good luck and shoot safe...

Jerry
 
Hello,
Back from the gunshow and went fairly well I found a good donor rifle for my project, it is a Chrome-Moly Remington 700/7mm does anyone need a stock or barrel? First and foremost, I would like to thank everyone who shared their knoweledge and expertise with me concerning this topic. I have been contemplating which rifle to build over the last couple of days now and am leaning more towards the .338 EDGE over the Lapua. I will keep you posted on my final decision and reasons as to why.

Thanks,
lv2hunt
 
Jerry Teo,

Thanks for all of the useful information, I checked into the Holland muzzle break as you recommended and you will be happy to know that I will be using one of these. Thanks for the great advice.

Lv2hunt
 
Have you checked the Badger?

I have used the Holland, Badger and the OPS inc.

For shooting prone. Badger is the best. The side ports are slightly angled upward a few degrees to eliminate the dust signature completely...

but it is your rifle...

and FWIW.. long range reloading isn't like reloading for minute of pie plate.. there are some things you should take a little more time with....
 
No problem. That's why we are all here.

Another item to add to your list. Get the best, thickest recoil pad you can. I like the Limbsaver but any of the new gen pads are fine. This is all about recoil control and with that boomer, you will need all the help you can get.

good luck with your project. Just be honest with yourself. If you can't control that rifle during recoil, LR hunting is going to be very tough. not being able to spot your hit will lead to lost game...eventually.

Jerry
 
Lv2hunt,
I would have to say that I would go with the Edge over the Lapua. I have one of Shawn's 338 Edge rifles and I LOVE IT!! I is a great shooting rifle I would highly recommend Shawn for your build of this rifle he is a great guy and very easy to work with. He will also do what ever it takes to get your rifle exactly the way you want it. If you take a look at the "338 Edge" thread on the Equipment Reviews section of this fine site (which I am sure that you have already done). I think you will see that the Edge owners on that thread are all VERY HAPPY. My buddy bought the Mossy Oak camo edge pictured after mine and he is as happy as I am.
As for the reloading reloading concerns Shawn will send you all the load data that he uses in the break in of your rifle. Shawn will tell you that this is a great starting point, I have to say that I am still using his load my rifle likes it so why change. The Redding dies are worth the wait and will make sizing your 300 RUM brass to 338 Edge very easy.

The Accuracy, Fit and Finish and Customer Service is great and I assure you that you will not be disappointed. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Let me know if I can help in any way.

And good luck on whatever you choose to build.

OneShot
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hello,

So I spoke with Shawn today concerning his .338 EDGE, what a great guy. I have now narrowed my choices down to two .338 rifles of which to build.

1st choice) The .338 EDGE, Remington 700 action.
2nd choice) The .338 Lapua, Remington 700 action.

Please let me know which route you would take if it were you.
Thank you,
Brandon
lv2hunt

[/ QUOTE ]


What did you learn in your discussion to eliminate the 338RUM? The biggest advantage to the 338RUM would be availability of factory ammo in the event of lost ammo.

What did you learn?

Thanks,
AJ
 
The 338 RUM is a good round. It cannot be considered to be the level of the Lapua or the EDGE. It is in the same game just not at the top of it considering the parameters of the project. If you lose ammo in transit your LRH game is down the tubes no matter what the caliber unless you are shooting an available factory ammo. I am not aware of any commercial loadings in 338 RUM that I would consider up the the task of LRH. If you have to load anyway might as well take advantage of the additional velocity of the Lapua or EDGE. I think the 338 RUM is good, I just think you would not be making your custom LR stick all it could be.
 
Thanks Shawn.

Am I understanding you, that the Lapua is faster fps than the RUM for the same length barrel (both handloaded) ?

AJ
 
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