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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Where to level?!
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<blockquote data-quote="P7M13" data-source="post: 2236550" data-attributes="member: 94154"><p><strong>Alignment and "Leveling" without a level.</strong></p><p>Credit to No_Regerts on NWFA for sharing this. When I first read his suggestion, I thought, "NFW!" It works, plain and simple. Before his method, to level scopes, I had all kinds of jigs adapted from old tooling, digital inclinometer, bullseye level, etc, and all but the bullseye level have sat idle since.</p><p></p><p>Caveat:</p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">This scenario presumes your bases are aligned with the bore and if split bases, aligned with each other.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">If you're mounting new rings (e.g. a new scope, going from Leupold 1" to Leupold 30mm), recommend you use the ring alignment tools like the Wheeler kit. Yeah, I lap my rings, but YMMV. I also lap my AR upper receivers. OCD.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">The tough part is finding a cradle where you can rotate your rifle and keep the bore sighted on the visual target. Typically this is something where the rifle is resting on a balance point.</li> </ul><p>Geometry:</p><div style="margin-left: 20px">If you imagine lines coming out of the bore axis and the scope optics axis, they intersect. An imaginary plane (imagine a flat sheet of cardboard) is formed by the two intersecting lines. You're using this rifle design basis to your benefit.</div><p></p><p>Tools Needed:</p><ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Cradle</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Bright, high visibility string and a weight (plumb bob, a 4oz or greater fishing weight, etc.)</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Proper tools to tighten your rings.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Depending on your eyes, muzzle laser bore sighter.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Nice to have: a micro torque wrench.</li> </ol><p>Method:</p><ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Your scope is mounted semi-loosely in the rings (you can move the scope with some applied force).</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Make sure your eye box is where you want it. Don't screw up like I have, mounting and leveling to find your eye box is crap.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">You have centered your reticle to factory zero, half way in total turret travel for both vertical and windage.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Find a way to cradle your rifle so you can rotate it on the bore axis. This is probably the hardest part. Last time I did this, I used a block of styro, cut into two pieces and a vee-notch out of both sides that barely fit the rifle fore end (the barrel doesn't wobble when you rotate). I wrapped the fore end in flannel and clamped it up in the vise. It worked, some wobble, and was a major PITA.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">If you're not using a bore sighter, remove the rifle bolt. If using a bore sighter, make sure, when you rotate the laser in the muzzle, the dot doesn't move at all on a wall at least 20' away.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Hang the string. Ideally indoors. You'd be surprised what a 1/4 knot breeze will do to a string.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">With your rifle cradled, rotate it from ~ -45° to +45°, making sure the string is centered in the bore (visual) or the laser spot is always on the string (can be hard to see).</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Rotate back until the reticle zero hits the line.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">If the vertical cross hair doesn't perfectly align with the string, rotate the scope in its rings to align the vertical with the string. The barrel and scope are now aligned and level.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Tighten: this is where you can screw up all the work you just did. Like tightening the head bolts on an engine, you slowly increment the torque on each screw to balance the force. I have had scopes rotate on me when tightening. Now I will tighten the screw 30°, move to the next screw on the opposite side, etc, until all are at the same torque.</li> </ol><p>Wisdom from the Cheap Seats:</p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">I prefer the horizontal split rings like Leupys. To me, easier to mount, adjust, etc.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Torque wrenches are useful if you don't have a sense of torque when you tighten things. The only kind I really trust are the needle type.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">In shooting, holding the gun level is something you train to do. Learning to "see" level is also something you train your eye to do. Figure out a method.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">I'm of the opinion, if you adjust your scope to be level for how you hold the rifle, you'll never be more than a good shot under 200, and iffy at best beyond. Doing that is like aiming your golf swing to the left to compensate for your slice.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">In long range, a cant bubble is very useful, as long as you can use your other eye to see it. It never made any sense to me to lift my cheek off to look at a level. Also remember, parallax is a big problem with bubble levels.</li> </ul></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="P7M13, post: 2236550, member: 94154"] [B]Alignment and "Leveling" without a level.[/B] Credit to No_Regerts on NWFA for sharing this. When I first read his suggestion, I thought, "NFW!" It works, plain and simple. Before his method, to level scopes, I had all kinds of jigs adapted from old tooling, digital inclinometer, bullseye level, etc, and all but the bullseye level have sat idle since. Caveat: [LIST] [*]This scenario presumes your bases are aligned with the bore and if split bases, aligned with each other. [*]If you're mounting new rings (e.g. a new scope, going from Leupold 1" to Leupold 30mm), recommend you use the ring alignment tools like the Wheeler kit. Yeah, I lap my rings, but YMMV. I also lap my AR upper receivers. OCD. [*]The tough part is finding a cradle where you can rotate your rifle and keep the bore sighted on the visual target. Typically this is something where the rifle is resting on a balance point. [/LIST] Geometry: [INDENT]If you imagine lines coming out of the bore axis and the scope optics axis, they intersect. An imaginary plane (imagine a flat sheet of cardboard) is formed by the two intersecting lines. You're using this rifle design basis to your benefit.[/INDENT] Tools Needed: [LIST=1] [*]Cradle [*]Bright, high visibility string and a weight (plumb bob, a 4oz or greater fishing weight, etc.) [*]Proper tools to tighten your rings. [*]Depending on your eyes, muzzle laser bore sighter. [*]Nice to have: a micro torque wrench. [/LIST] Method: [LIST=1] [*]Your scope is mounted semi-loosely in the rings (you can move the scope with some applied force). [*]Make sure your eye box is where you want it. Don't screw up like I have, mounting and leveling to find your eye box is crap. [*]You have centered your reticle to factory zero, half way in total turret travel for both vertical and windage. [*]Find a way to cradle your rifle so you can rotate it on the bore axis. This is probably the hardest part. Last time I did this, I used a block of styro, cut into two pieces and a vee-notch out of both sides that barely fit the rifle fore end (the barrel doesn't wobble when you rotate). I wrapped the fore end in flannel and clamped it up in the vise. It worked, some wobble, and was a major PITA. [*]If you're not using a bore sighter, remove the rifle bolt. If using a bore sighter, make sure, when you rotate the laser in the muzzle, the dot doesn't move at all on a wall at least 20' away. [*]Hang the string. Ideally indoors. You'd be surprised what a 1/4 knot breeze will do to a string. [*]With your rifle cradled, rotate it from ~ -45° to +45°, making sure the string is centered in the bore (visual) or the laser spot is always on the string (can be hard to see). [*]Rotate back until the reticle zero hits the line. [*]If the vertical cross hair doesn't perfectly align with the string, rotate the scope in its rings to align the vertical with the string. The barrel and scope are now aligned and level. [*]Tighten: this is where you can screw up all the work you just did. Like tightening the head bolts on an engine, you slowly increment the torque on each screw to balance the force. I have had scopes rotate on me when tightening. Now I will tighten the screw 30°, move to the next screw on the opposite side, etc, until all are at the same torque. [/LIST] Wisdom from the Cheap Seats: [LIST] [*]I prefer the horizontal split rings like Leupys. To me, easier to mount, adjust, etc. [*]Torque wrenches are useful if you don't have a sense of torque when you tighten things. The only kind I really trust are the needle type. [*]In shooting, holding the gun level is something you train to do. Learning to "see" level is also something you train your eye to do. Figure out a method. [*]I'm of the opinion, if you adjust your scope to be level for how you hold the rifle, you'll never be more than a good shot under 200, and iffy at best beyond. Doing that is like aiming your golf swing to the left to compensate for your slice. [*]In long range, a cant bubble is very useful, as long as you can use your other eye to see it. It never made any sense to me to lift my cheek off to look at a level. Also remember, parallax is a big problem with bubble levels. [/LIST] [/QUOTE]
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