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Long Range Hunting & Shooting
Wheeler Scope Level Problem
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<blockquote data-quote="dfanonymous" data-source="post: 1543204" data-attributes="member: 97050"><p>That because the tool is impractical the way most people use it. You really only need the loose level and some 550 cord...which you can get at home depot for couple bucks. </p><p></p><p>So your reticle is crooked because when manufacturers install the parts...specifically the reticle, despite wired or etched...its not in the scope "perfect." Leveling the body of the scope...usually from the turret doesn't mean that the reticle is plumb. As you are all figuring out.</p><p></p><p>Fix= Get into an open area...with the greatest distance you can where you can hang something. at least 15 yards. Set up the 550 cord by hanging it on something and tie a weight at the end of it and let it hang. This will be your plump line and you will want your rifle facing it during the rest of the set up. </p><p></p><p>Put the rifle in a vice, a actual vice or a tipton or whatever will work, as long as there is minimal movement, then throw a level on it and lock the rifle in and throw shims in as need to make sure that the rifle is level. I use the scope mount to put the level on and 3rd axis doesn't matter. </p><p></p><p>Put the rings on and scope on. The rifle should be locked in and not moving still being level. Put the top rings top on and start the screws but before getting them too tight that you can move the scope, get your eye relief set up then move the reticle so vertically it is aligned with the plumb line you hung. </p><p></p><p>Start to tighten the screws and keep checking the scope to see if the reticle is still in-line with the plumb line. When the screws are tight enough that the scope won't move with finger pressure, start torquing them bitches down. Should be a given, but use the cross method when torquing screws down as it will move the scope if one side gets more love then the other. I DO use the wheeler fatboy torq driver i think it's called. Works great. </p><p></p><p>Anyways, this is the only way I know of for one hundo percent will give you a level reticle. If you use a bubble, just add the level on loosely before putting the scope on the rings. Do all other steps then at the end, before pulling it out of the vice, move it to level, then tighten it down and use blue threadtite on all screws from the base to the rings. You won't have problems.</p><p></p><p>Before "that guy" comes on here and tries to justify why his wheeler leveling kit is the best thing since the potato, if you think about it, the tolerance of scopes and lenses put in, some are bound to align perfectly with the scope turrets, so once in awhile it works. For the rest of us that know it's not level, using a plumb line on a level rifle is the only practical way. </p><p></p><p>Lastly, Sniperhide has mrad targets that are to scale at 100y. You can use those too, as well as to check scope turret tracking. </p><p></p><p>I'm tired of typing. Your welcome.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="dfanonymous, post: 1543204, member: 97050"] That because the tool is impractical the way most people use it. You really only need the loose level and some 550 cord...which you can get at home depot for couple bucks. So your reticle is crooked because when manufacturers install the parts...specifically the reticle, despite wired or etched...its not in the scope "perfect." Leveling the body of the scope...usually from the turret doesn't mean that the reticle is plumb. As you are all figuring out. Fix= Get into an open area...with the greatest distance you can where you can hang something. at least 15 yards. Set up the 550 cord by hanging it on something and tie a weight at the end of it and let it hang. This will be your plump line and you will want your rifle facing it during the rest of the set up. Put the rifle in a vice, a actual vice or a tipton or whatever will work, as long as there is minimal movement, then throw a level on it and lock the rifle in and throw shims in as need to make sure that the rifle is level. I use the scope mount to put the level on and 3rd axis doesn't matter. Put the rings on and scope on. The rifle should be locked in and not moving still being level. Put the top rings top on and start the screws but before getting them too tight that you can move the scope, get your eye relief set up then move the reticle so vertically it is aligned with the plumb line you hung. Start to tighten the screws and keep checking the scope to see if the reticle is still in-line with the plumb line. When the screws are tight enough that the scope won't move with finger pressure, start torquing them bitches down. Should be a given, but use the cross method when torquing screws down as it will move the scope if one side gets more love then the other. I DO use the wheeler fatboy torq driver i think it's called. Works great. Anyways, this is the only way I know of for one hundo percent will give you a level reticle. If you use a bubble, just add the level on loosely before putting the scope on the rings. Do all other steps then at the end, before pulling it out of the vice, move it to level, then tighten it down and use blue threadtite on all screws from the base to the rings. You won't have problems. Before "that guy" comes on here and tries to justify why his wheeler leveling kit is the best thing since the potato, if you think about it, the tolerance of scopes and lenses put in, some are bound to align perfectly with the scope turrets, so once in awhile it works. For the rest of us that know it's not level, using a plumb line on a level rifle is the only practical way. Lastly, Sniperhide has mrad targets that are to scale at 100y. You can use those too, as well as to check scope turret tracking. I'm tired of typing. Your welcome. [/QUOTE]
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