Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Hunting
Long Range Hunting & Shooting
What would you change?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Calvin45" data-source="post: 2399328" data-attributes="member: 109862"><p>As far as hardware goes, I'd focus on the ammo before I'd start blaming the rifle. Only after it demonstrated an inability to shoot with a number of different factory and carefully tuned handloads would i think about modifying the gun.</p><p></p><p>My first order of business would probably be to see to it that the action is properly bedded, and if it's a free floating barrel make sure it's not actually touching the stock - modified a cheap savage 270 stock with a utility knife, no joke, to remedy barrel-stock interference. It shot a bit better after, honestly. It was ugly to begin with, no regrets <img class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" alt="🤣" title="Rolling on the floor laughing :rofl:" src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f923.png" data-shortname=":rofl:" />.</p><p></p><p>If the rifle is chambered in a hard kicking cartridge combined with a lightweight Tupperware type stock there's an obvious potential for lousy groups there, nothing you can do about it if you don't replace the stock first or find a way to make it heavier and more rigid - I've noticed on a few of those really cheaply made savage axis/rem 783 type guns that 243s are tack drivers, 270s are often right at 1 moa guns, and .30-06 with heavies don't shoot so tight. I don't think it's just recoil affecting shooting or anything inherently more accurate about other cartridges - I think the .30-06 with 180+ grain bullets is starting to ask too much of the cheap injection molded hollow stocks.</p><p></p><p>As for the shooter, I know of nothing better than experiencing an unplanned dry fire and seeing how much you actually do flinch or start to flinch after a shooting awhile. I discovered this with my .300 win mag. I often shoot it with the brake closed now, because it's a heavier rifle and I discovered, when i thought I had chambered another round but in fact chambered air, that the horrendous blast from the muzzle brake was absolutely making me flinch, and the recoil was not so much.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Calvin45, post: 2399328, member: 109862"] As far as hardware goes, I’d focus on the ammo before I’d start blaming the rifle. Only after it demonstrated an inability to shoot with a number of different factory and carefully tuned handloads would i think about modifying the gun. My first order of business would probably be to see to it that the action is properly bedded, and if it’s a free floating barrel make sure it’s not actually touching the stock - modified a cheap savage 270 stock with a utility knife, no joke, to remedy barrel-stock interference. It shot a bit better after, honestly. It was ugly to begin with, no regrets 🤣. If the rifle is chambered in a hard kicking cartridge combined with a lightweight Tupperware type stock there’s an obvious potential for lousy groups there, nothing you can do about it if you don’t replace the stock first or find a way to make it heavier and more rigid - I’ve noticed on a few of those really cheaply made savage axis/rem 783 type guns that 243s are tack drivers, 270s are often right at 1 moa guns, and .30-06 with heavies don’t shoot so tight. I don’t think it’s just recoil affecting shooting or anything inherently more accurate about other cartridges - I think the .30-06 with 180+ grain bullets is starting to ask too much of the cheap injection molded hollow stocks. As for the shooter, I know of nothing better than experiencing an unplanned dry fire and seeing how much you actually do flinch or start to flinch after a shooting awhile. I discovered this with my .300 win mag. I often shoot it with the brake closed now, because it’s a heavier rifle and I discovered, when i thought I had chambered another round but in fact chambered air, that the horrendous blast from the muzzle brake was absolutely making me flinch, and the recoil was not so much. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Hunting
Long Range Hunting & Shooting
What would you change?
Top