my hart is not set . just want a good shooter . and in the last 8 days have read more post all over the web . to try to find out what my next rifle will be . what a Pain
What Rem. 700 to get for long shots
- Thread starter Terrytf
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diriel
Well-Known Member
Really, if you want a factory guarantee I think FN or TC Warlord are about it. Both of which make really good rifles. The new FN's are made in south carolina at a state of the art facility. MOA guarantee, and I *THINK* there is one model, if you dig enough, that has 1/2 MOA, but do not quote me on the latter. I can not seem to find that model right at the moment. The 1 moa guarantee is easy enough to find. They have pretty good triggers for the most part too.
If you have had bad luck with Savage, then I certainly do not blame you for shying away. What I like about my Savage is that I have the barrel nut wrench, headspace go-no-go, and action blocks for the vise. I can purchase a Shilen ready to go barrel, or Lothar, or a few other solid name choices, and I can rebarrel myself. Not trying to sell you on it, this is what drew me to Savage. Then again, Savage is like most any other biggish company, they have the occasional "Off Day".
As for Howa, I would order the Stainless variety. If you ever decide to ship one to a GS, I have seen several GS report that the stainless variety are way better to remove the barrel from. It would seem that the blued variety are a "stone bitch" to get the barrel off of.
Good Shooting,
Gary
P.S. Here is a link to read up on what some fairly serious minded people are saying about Howa:
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=885314
Look up for what Pete Lincoln has to say. There are a few other posts in there by other GS or Hobby GS that essentially say the same. Some good info. Nothing OEM is ever going to be perfect Just have to read until you pull your hair out, then hit the go key and hope.
If you have had bad luck with Savage, then I certainly do not blame you for shying away. What I like about my Savage is that I have the barrel nut wrench, headspace go-no-go, and action blocks for the vise. I can purchase a Shilen ready to go barrel, or Lothar, or a few other solid name choices, and I can rebarrel myself. Not trying to sell you on it, this is what drew me to Savage. Then again, Savage is like most any other biggish company, they have the occasional "Off Day".
As for Howa, I would order the Stainless variety. If you ever decide to ship one to a GS, I have seen several GS report that the stainless variety are way better to remove the barrel from. It would seem that the blued variety are a "stone bitch" to get the barrel off of.
Good Shooting,
Gary
P.S. Here is a link to read up on what some fairly serious minded people are saying about Howa:
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=885314
Look up for what Pete Lincoln has to say. There are a few other posts in there by other GS or Hobby GS that essentially say the same. Some good info. Nothing OEM is ever going to be perfect
Just have to read until you pull your hair out, then hit the go key and hope.
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and this is the reason I keep thinking savage . and the more I read the more I like them . but there 26" barrel only comes blued and SS is only 24" . Is the accustock any good or will I need to restock a savage with the accustock ?
diriel
Well-Known Member
Accustock is Okay, but you need to remove that accu-wedge and give that area a little love. As for the barrel, you could easily order a Pre-fit from Shilen or any of the others. Get the go-no-go, wrench, and blocks, and simply roll your own just exactly that easily. Then you *KNOW* the barrel will be premium, and it will be to your spec's.
Then again check out the 116 Bear Hunter,
Savage Arms > Firearms > Browse Models
Stainless, 300wm and 338wm, with boss system. Personally I can take or leave that boss, but that would be easy enough to "take care of" if you don't like it.
Gary
Then again check out the 116 Bear Hunter,
Savage Arms > Firearms > Browse Models
Stainless, 300wm and 338wm, with boss system. Personally I can take or leave that boss, but that would be easy enough to "take care of" if you don't like it.
Gary
Trickymissfit
Well-Known Member
Really, if you want a factory guarantee I think FN or TC Warlord are about it. Both of which make really good rifles. The new FN's are made in south carolina at a state of the art facility. MOA guarantee, and I *THINK* there is one model, if you dig enough, that has 1/2 MOA, but do not quote me on the latter. I can not seem to find that model right at the moment. The 1 moa guarantee is easy enough to find. They have pretty good triggers for the most part too.
If you have had bad luck with Savage, then I certainly do not blame you for shying away. What I like about my Savage is that I have the barrel nut wrench, headspace go-no-go, and action blocks for the vise. I can purchase a Shilen ready to go barrel, or Lothar, or a few other solid name choices, and I can rebarrel myself. Not trying to sell you on it, this is what drew me to Savage. Then again, Savage is like most any other biggish company, they have the occasional "Off Day".
As for Howa, I would order the Stainless variety. If you ever decide to ship one to a GS, I have seen several GS report that the stainless variety are way better to remove the barrel from. It would seem that the blued variety are a "stone bitch" to get the barrel off of.
Good Shooting,
Gary
P.S. Here is a link to read up on what some fairly serious minded people are saying about Howa:
Howa actions?? - Sniper's Hide Forums
Look up for what Pete Lincoln has to say. There are a few other posts in there by other GS or Hobby GS that essentially say the same. Some good info. Nothing OEM is ever going to be perfect
your post about removing a stainless barrel on a Howa being much easier is interesting, as stainless barrel threads are the ones you almost always hear about a problem with.
Weatherby for years ran an ad guarranteeing a sub 1" group out of the Vanguards. That was also with the light contoured barrel profiles. Like I said, I have a 30-06 wood stocked Vanguard (the stock is a select grade dark walnut). It will shoot 3/4" groups with Remington 150 grain factory loads without any serious effort (I'm sure it will shoot those factory loads better). It also shoots very well at 250 yards (sub MOA). The zero has never been readjusted since 1977, and I'm sure it will be right there today. At the sametime my brother buys a 25-06, and it's a wood stocked Vanguard. Both guns were identical except for caliber and coloring of the wood. His rifle shot about .6 MOA. Another buddy buys one in 7mm mag, and his rifle shoots in the eights right outta the box. Now I also have two MK. V's and they both shoot around 3/4" groups (the 30-06 is the light weight MK. V). These are (or were) all skinny barreled guns and shot very well out of the box. There's things I don't like about them, and there are things I like about them, but not the way they shoot
gary
Trickymissfit
Well-Known Member
the wedge is my design! How they got it I still don't know, but built a few rifles with it about ten or twelve years ago (most were Savages, but there were two Remington 700's). If it's installed correctly, and then adjusted correctly it works better than any bedding job you can do. I did this in two phases; with the second phase being setup similar to the Accustock, but also with the wedge. All parts were wired out, and I used a .040" taper per inch in the wedge. Both halves of the wedge come from the same block so the angles are near perfect. The screw pulling the wedge in place is critical, and the back plate must be setup exactly parallel to the nut seating face on the reciever. When you put the action in the stock, pull it towards the back, and tighten the bedding screws to where they are just seated. Now pull the wedge in place. After that slightly loosen the bedding screws and then retighten them with about 10 to 15 in. lb. of torque. Now get your torque wrench out and start tightening the bedding screw closest to the reciever bridge to about 20 in. lb. Do the same with the wedge and then the rear screw. Once you have that bring all them down down to about 35 in. lb. After shooting two or three rounds retorque the bedding screws to about 40 in. lb., but leave the wedge alone unless it's showing signs of movement (this torque value seems to vary between rifles)
I later did a third redesign and came up with a system that used a wedge with a double taper that worked with a pair of bedding blocks that are radically different than any out there right now. Also the material the wedge and bedding blocks are made from is important, and forget aluminium
gary
diriel
Well-Known Member
Cool post about the accu-wedge. And as for Howa, I am pretty sure what my next rifle purchase will be. Nothing is ever perfect, but for the money Howa seems to be pretty good stuff.
Gary
Nothing is ever perfect, but for the money Howa seems to be pretty good stuff.Gary
well thank's to all that answered after a lot of reading and research made my mind up on a new rifle .. What a pain in the @$$ . one thing I found out after 6 days of reading is there are a lot of people that only own one brand of rifle and the rest are crap and they post it in many different forums under different names. Gary I realy started looking at the Howa my good buddy just got one in a 308 and it is a shooter but he will have to send it out to get a barrel for it when the time comes he plans on doing a lot of work to it . my thing is hunting not targets . Once again thank you all for the help!!!
Trickymissfit
Well-Known Member
diriel
Well-Known Member
Yeah, folks are funny that way. For me, heck I would really like to own a Sako, FN Winchester or 3, couple more Savages, and a Few Howa's Oh, and at least 1 Marlin lever 45/70!
Big Horn Armory - Products
and one of these!
Lots of nice guns out there to be had!
Gary
Oh, and at least 1 Marlin lever 45/70! Big Horn Armory - Products
and one of these!
Lots of nice guns out there to be had!
Gary
