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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
What kind of digital calipers do I need?
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 478069" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>food for thought:</p><p> </p><p>* Anybody every check to see just how tight there calipers are? They can't be rock solid because they move back and forth. If the blades spring much under pressure you get a false reading. Better ones have ways to tighten them back up, but that job is not for the novice. </p><p> </p><p>* the basic frame work on a digital and a dial caliper are somewhat similar in concept, but of course one is much simpler. The frames still spring a little bit under movement and pressure. Nature of the beast. A four digit decimal is useless in a caliper due to the slide movement alone. Calipers are really three place decimal devices. The better digital calipers come with the ability to be setup with a nominal deminsion, and then work from that established zero point. I've maybe used this feature twice! (mostly because I forget it's there). One nice thing about a digital caliper is that they are fairly well sealed up, and fine grain powders can't wreak havoc with your brain!</p><p> </p><p>* some folks have the idea that the good old digital (or dial) caliper is all you need to become a master at precision measurments. Sorry folks but they just ain't gonna replace Grandad's old pair of Lufkins anytime soon! It's a good idea to have a nice one inch micrometer that reads in tenths. Forget all the fancey carbide anvils. Then learn to use them (lots of folks use them everyday, and get lots of different readings everyday). Buy good ones, and you'll never regret it. I used a pair of Starretts the otherday measuring .223 necks for a post on here. They were bought new in 1949. You all get what you pay for! The newest 1" mic I own is a B&S sold in 1970, and it's just as tight today as it was new. (by the way I bought that pair used in 1974 for the huge sum of $10). I'm not going to give my twice a year dial indicator lecture, but trust me it's needed.</p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 478069, member: 25383"] food for thought: * Anybody every check to see just how tight there calipers are? They can't be rock solid because they move back and forth. If the blades spring much under pressure you get a false reading. Better ones have ways to tighten them back up, but that job is not for the novice. * the basic frame work on a digital and a dial caliper are somewhat similar in concept, but of course one is much simpler. The frames still spring a little bit under movement and pressure. Nature of the beast. A four digit decimal is useless in a caliper due to the slide movement alone. Calipers are really three place decimal devices. The better digital calipers come with the ability to be setup with a nominal deminsion, and then work from that established zero point. I've maybe used this feature twice! (mostly because I forget it's there). One nice thing about a digital caliper is that they are fairly well sealed up, and fine grain powders can't wreak havoc with your brain! * some folks have the idea that the good old digital (or dial) caliper is all you need to become a master at precision measurments. Sorry folks but they just ain't gonna replace Grandad's old pair of Lufkins anytime soon! It's a good idea to have a nice one inch micrometer that reads in tenths. Forget all the fancey carbide anvils. Then learn to use them (lots of folks use them everyday, and get lots of different readings everyday). Buy good ones, and you'll never regret it. I used a pair of Starretts the otherday measuring .223 necks for a post on here. They were bought new in 1949. You all get what you pay for! The newest 1" mic I own is a B&S sold in 1970, and it's just as tight today as it was new. (by the way I bought that pair used in 1974 for the huge sum of $10). I'm not going to give my twice a year dial indicator lecture, but trust me it's needed. gary [/QUOTE]
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What kind of digital calipers do I need?
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