JAWZ
Well-Known Member
What kind of paint are you guys using to paint up your guns and stock?
JAWZ
JAWZ
What do you paint your gun with ?
- Thread starter JAWZ
- Start date
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royinidaho
Well-Known Member
Stock:
Rattle Can: Kylon/Rustoleum
Base coat usually ends up being DupliColor pick-up-truck bed liner.
Airbrush: Folk Art Outdoor/ Createx / Model Master Acryl
I favor Model Master the most due to small size of container.
Action/Barrel/Scope: I don't use the rattle can for this but they will work fine.
I use any of the above mentioned paints but lean toward Kustom Kolors out of Eugene OR. They come mixed for the airbrush and the color selection is pretty good. Also with some basic color mixing skills just about any color you wish may be constructed.
After painting the clear coat is important for long life. I've learned that clear coating is not as magical as some say. Plus its pretty much bomb proof.
Also, the local body shop would most probably do the clear coat for a very reasonable. I've found that several body shops would rather "play" with a gun stock than "work" on an auto body.
The tupperware stocks are an inexpensive thing to test on also an old wood stock that has no value would be good but I've not come across a wood stock of any sort that has no value. Thus an orbital sander comes in handy around here
Rattle Can: Kylon/Rustoleum
Base coat usually ends up being DupliColor pick-up-truck bed liner.
Airbrush: Folk Art Outdoor/ Createx / Model Master Acryl
I favor Model Master the most due to small size of container.
Action/Barrel/Scope: I don't use the rattle can for this but they will work fine.
I use any of the above mentioned paints but lean toward Kustom Kolors out of Eugene OR. They come mixed for the airbrush and the color selection is pretty good. Also with some basic color mixing skills just about any color you wish may be constructed.
After painting the clear coat is important for long life. I've learned that clear coating is not as magical as some say. Plus its pretty much bomb proof.
Also, the local body shop would most probably do the clear coat for a very reasonable. I've found that several body shops would rather "play" with a gun stock than "work" on an auto body.
The tupperware stocks are an inexpensive thing to test on also an old wood stock that has no value would be good but I've not come across a wood stock of any sort that has no value. Thus an orbital sander comes in handy around here
I have had very good luck with Alumahyde II. Usually it goes on after Krylon Stone Touch, for a little grip. The Alumahyde is amazingly tough, I just know this because I recently dropped a freshly painted stock off the hanger.
I haven't painted any metal parts with it yet but I hear good things.
Nick
I haven't painted any metal parts with it yet but I hear good things.
Nick
