What do you do for NECK tention ???

bigbuck

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2009
Messages
1,650
If I understand correctly consistent neck tention is a must for LR . So what do you do ? Is their any tricks of the trade ?

Thanks for reading.

BigBuck
 
Thing #1-- anneal your brass regularly.

Thing #2 - be consistent - the Lee neck dies are good but the correct bushing die is better. If you use a Lee neck die you can actually feel which cases have a thicker neck than others.

Thing #3 - get a VLD chamfer tool so the angle is easier for boattail bullet seating.

Thing #4 - clean the inside of your necks with a bore brush and 0000 steel wool chucked into a drill. Somewhere I put up one of my goofy videos on how to do this easy and quick.

Thing 5 - do not leave lube or any goo inside the neck that can turn sticky.

Thing 6 - you can use a neck turner to take of the high spots on your necks so they are of uniform thickness.
 
I anneal them like the video on this site, with the socket and a drill, till they just turn purple then into a bucket of water.
Chamfer and clean the inside if the necks with a wire brush.
Then load.
Tarey
 
If I understand correctly consistent neck tention is a must for LR . So what do you do ? Is their any tricks of the trade ?

Thanks for reading.

BigBuck

Muscle relaxers and a hot shower :D I couldn't resist a smart comment! BB's advice is perty much what I do and it has worked out nice, I did order my next reamer with a tighter neck than the factory is so I don't have to work the neck any more than necessary.
For me the Redding bushing die and the VLD chamfer tool made a big difference!
 
Muscle relaxers and a hot shower :D

I was gonna say that's what my wife is for......but resisted till now.:)

What's a VLD chamfer tool?

Is it different than the Wilson toow that is double-ended with standard 45-degree flutes that debur/chamfer the inside and outside mouth of the case that I purchased in 1966?

I like to keep up on the latest technology.:D
 
I was gonna say that's what my wife is for......but resisted till now.:)

What's a VLD chamfer tool?

Is it different than the Wilson toow that is double-ended with standard 45-degree flutes that debur/chamfer the inside and outside mouth of the case that I purchased in 1966?

I like to keep up on the latest technology.:D

WesB's link is a good pic of one but I use the Redding, I think everyone makes on now. Made a big difference in how the Bergers seated for me, they slide in like butter!
 
Thanks wesB.

Its' about what I thought. VLD is a marketing thing.

The Wilson is 45* the "VLD" is 28*?

Why not make one at 37.5 degrees and call it an RBBT chamfer tool.:D

You'll sell a million of 'em.
 
I just started annealing about 1 month ago. I use the rcbs VLD tool is it any different than say the redding ? Is their any trick to lubing the boolits before you seat them that would help them all have the same release.

BB
 
I just started annealing about 1 month ago. I use the rcbs VLD tool is it any different than say the redding ? Is their any trick to lubing the boolits before you seat them that would help them all have the same release.

BB

Interesting you mention lubing your bullets, I heard somewhere that you can wipe some dry graphite in the neck before seating. So I gave it a try this weekend, I remembered it after loading 5 rounds so, naturally instead of just trying 5 I loaded up 40 :rolleyes: about half shot sub MOA at every range the other half shot 3-5 MOA high, so I shot the 5 that I didn't lube and they went just under 1 MOA virticle and 20in windage at 1015yrds. I'm my worst enemy :rolleyes:
 
Interesting you mention lubing your bullets, I heard somewhere that you can wipe some dry graphite in the neck before seating. So I gave it a try this weekend, I remembered it after loading 5 rounds so, naturally instead of just trying 5 I loaded up 40 :rolleyes: about half shot sub MOA at every range the other half shot 3-5 MOA high, so I shot the 5 that I didn't lube and they went just under 1 MOA virticle and 20in windage at 1015yrds. I'm my worst enemy :rolleyes:

So do you think the dry graphite is worth it ? I was told by a hornady tech that shoots 1000 yrd comp that I could get this from any local parts stores for about $2.75 a tube . He said it worked well for him . How did you apply it ?


Bigbuck
 
So do you think the dry graphite is worth it ? I was told by a hornady tech that shoots 1000 yrd comp that I could get this from any local parts stores for about $2.75 a tube . He said it worked well for him . How did you apply it ?


Bigbuck

I'd try anything if someone has had success doing it, I just wiped a dusting in the neck with a Q-tip but my cases did not like it at all. I had a good group going at 600yrd, first and second shot were 1 5/8 then it heaved one 10 in up. I've shot dozens of 5-6 shot groups at 1015yrds and had 5-6in of vertical with this load, then I get the bright idea to tinker with it just a little more:rolleyes:.
Infuriating, the Almighty is using reloading to work on my patience level, it'll probably take a few barrel !!
 
I'd try anything if someone has had success doing it, I just wiped a dusting in the neck with a Q-tip but my cases did not like it at all. I had a good group going at 600yrd, first and second shot were 1 5/8 then it heaved one 10 in up. I've shot dozens of 5-6 shot groups at 1015yrds and had 5-6in of vertical with this load, then I get the bright idea to tinker with it just a little more:rolleyes:.
Infuriating, the Almighty is using reloading to work on my patience level, it'll probably take a few barrel !!

Thats the same way I applied it to a few that i had loaded up but the thing is I forgot to write it down on the ones that I applied it to . Don't you just love it when things like that happens lightbulb
BigBuck
 
Warning! This thread is more than 14 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top