what bipod size, gear, etc etc etc

Discussion in 'The Basics, Starting Out' started by cowboy717, Sep 26, 2008.

  1. cowboy717

    cowboy717 Well-Known Member

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    Apr 17, 2008
    ok, i'm relatively new to long range hunting,,, long in being 500yds+, i have a custom 300 RUM built with a 32" stainless heavy barrel,,1-10", hs-precision stock. and have reciently put on a badger ordnance 20 MOA scope base and max 50 rings it is also topped with a Sightron long range 6-24x50.
    wanting to know what else i need or can have to help out with hunting, also wantin to know what loads to start with, never really reloaded for super precision like this.
    wanting to start with either 210 bergers or 240 smk's, maybe with either retumbo or h1000.
    thanksgun)

    did want to add that i have shot at around 400-500 yards with my 308 and have been reloading for a while. most of my guns have not had a factory shell shot thru them.
    also what do you guys use to compute drop tables?? i have heard about nightforces pda and such??
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2008
  2. gebhardt02

    gebhardt02 Well-Known Member

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    Sep 17, 2008
    I don't have any experience with the 300RUM or that particular scope, but from what I've read about them, you have a nice set-up. As far as what else gear wise, best is a relative term. What's best for me may not work out good for you. However, for my precision rifles which I use for hunting, varminting, and comps, I use the harris 9-13 swivel notched leg version with pod-lock. I like this version because I've found it able to give me that extra clearance over rocks or taller grass and angle shooting that the BR model does not. I also shoot a relatively high position, compared to many other shooters.

    Since you are familiar with reloading, I think you will probably have a technique that works for you to find the best load for your rifle. I tend to seat the bullets just off the lands and shoot different powder charges, working up slowly, until I get the accuracy I want or pressure signs show up. If I get the accuracy I am looking for and no pressure, I'll play with seating depth a bit, still keeping watch for pressure. I don't usually test different primers, as I usually know what I want to use. But if you do change primers, back off on your powder and rework it. If you already know most of this, great.

    Other gear I use is a TIS sling, Eagle stock pack that has an LT Tool Pack (RedTac Gear) with allen wrenches for the different size bolts on the rifle, and a bore snake and ear plugs. I also keep a detailed log book of cold bore shots, elevation corrections, and other data. Edited to add that I also use a Leica LRF if time permits, which it usually does.

    Not sure if that answered any of your questions, but this is what I use and do.

    Geb
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2008

  3. Kevin Cram

    Kevin Cram <b>SPONSOR</b>

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    Mar 9, 2004
    Cowboy717,

    Your set-up sounds fine. The bi-pod size depends on the type of shooting position you most likely will be in. The lower to the ground or platform the more stable you'll be. I use the Harris 6"-9" and a swivel type is almost a must for uneven shooting ground.
    You didn't mention any optics you use for spotting the game. To me this is the #1 item to have even before the gun. What good is a gun that can shoot 1/2 moa if you can't spot the game to use it. Buy the best optics you can afford and be sure to have enough magnification to effectively spot and determine animal size. Big Eyes are what we use mostly, but if not looking to far (500 yards) a good pair of binoculars can be used and a single spotting scope for a more detailed look.
    Precision reloading starts with using the best components you can afford. With that said it starts with brass preparation. I will first full length resize my brass and size the neck using the expander ball that will fit my neck turning tool mandrel properly. I will then trim my over all case length and de-burr "gently". Next I'll uniform the primer pocket for uniform depth and to remove the radius in the corner. Next I will perform inside flash hole deburring. Then I will set up my neck turning tool. If the chamber is not a tight neck chamber that needs appropriate neck turning to fit I will at least skim enough off the neck for a 80% clean up. (Watch the neck shoulder junction area when neck turning!) Other than that all I do is weigh my cases and shoot them in descending weight order.
    For the .300 Remington Ultra Mag
    240g Sierra Match King Bullet, Federal 215 primer, and 91g of H1000 should give you around 3,000 fps.
    210g Berger Bullet, Federal 215 primer, and 89g Retumbo should give you a little over 3,000 fps.
    You may get a little higher velocities because of the 32" barrel. These loads did not show pressure in my rifle but ALWAYS start lower and work your way up.
    As for drop tables I prefer to use JBM Ballistics. It's free on the internet and has works well as long as you put in all the proper data.
    Hope this answered your questions. There are all sorts of little tricks and tips that can be learned only from experience. It's best to get with someone who is well informed and truly knows what they're doing to steer you in the right direction. Good luck in your long range hunting adventures to come.