What barrel cleaning regiment and products do you use?

Discussion in 'Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics' started by Jeff In TX, Mar 9, 2007.

  1. Jeff In TX

    Jeff In TX Well-Known Member

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    After all these discussions about barrel break-in and new barrel technologies what cleaning regiment and products do you use? I got a few PM’s asking me mine so I thought I’d share mine and throw it out to board to see what you use.

    If I’ve shot a few hundred rounds without cleaning, I’ll normally shoot brake or carburetor cleaner down the barrel and give it a brushing with my Iosso nylon brushes. Any carbon build up is gone. Then I follow my normal cleaning regiment outlined below.

    Since most of my barrels are SS Rock or Broughton match barrels I’ve taken the easy way out. BTW I use a Lucas bore guide with Tipton carbon fiber cleaning rods and jags.

    For cleaning I use Wipeout and Wipeout accelerator. In my match barrels, I usually pass a few patches of soaked Wipe Accelerator through to push out most of the loose gunk, followed by Wipeout foam bore cleaner. I leave the Wipeout foam in for an hour or so. With Wipeout still in the bore I use a Iosso nylon bore brush. I usually give it 15 to 20 good passes, then patch the bore out with dry patches. I push a soaked patch of Kroil through followed by two or three dry patches and call it done.

    For my .300 WSM with the factory barrel, I use the same method except I let the Wipeout sit in the bore for 3 to 5 or 6 hours, brush, patch clean and oil with a few dry patches. I see more copper fouling in the .300 WSM factory barrel so I let Wipeout sit for a few hours. Since my .300 WSM is strickly a hunting rifle it never sees more than a few range rounds to verify my zero and any rounds I shoot when hunting.

    My bores sparkle and are very clean when looking through a bore scope (when I can get access to my buddies bore scope). No carbon build up, copper fouling, just a very clean bore.

    Not sure if it’s right or wrong, you agree or disagree, but it works well for me.
     
  2. royinidaho

    royinidaho Writers Guild

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    I use the same equipment and process as Jeff In TX except I use Warthog 1134 when time is short and Wipe Out w/accelerator for a more leisurely pace.

    My goal is as clean a barrel as possible with as few rod passes as necessary.
     

  3. Cheyenne19

    Cheyenne19 Well-Known Member

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    I run m pro 7 bore gel first to get the carbon, then Butch's bore shine. I patch out, and try not to use a brush.
     
  4. CAM

    CAM Well-Known Member

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    I run a few wet patchs of hoppes #9 (to get the powder) and follow with a few dry patches, then go to CR10 [(made by barnes)if anybody knows cooper fouling its probably barnes]
    run a few wet and then dry patches some times I run some wet and let sit for 30 min and chase with a dry patch.
    after the "blue" is gone, I run a patch of mobil 1 synthetic and chase with a dry patch.

    It just seem to me that the more I scrub and clean, the more foulers it takes to settle back down! So I clean less than I use to!! and don't over do it like I did before.

    The whole concept of "foulers" makes scrubing the barrel squicky clean unresonable!! LOL

    ANYBODY clean thier guns and not need a few foulers at 1K?

    At 1K with a clean bore I can watch my shots start low right and with 2-4 shots walk up and left to the bull! I know its not barrel heat because it don't do it with a fouled barrel. cold bore shot on a "fouled" barrel is way better than a cold bore "clean" barrel.

    I think the smart way would be to clean at the range and then shoot a couple foulers, then your ready to go hunting.

    CAM
     
  5. Ian M

    Ian M Well-Known Member

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    I used to use a mix of chemicals, now I just use TM Solution. Works for me. Same with TM's oil and lug lube. Lucas bore guide, Dewey rods and brushes, the new Birchwood Casey plastic muzzle-bags to catch spray and patches (they are so slick, everyone should try them!!), MIdway tools to clean the lug recesses, Midways excellent cleaning kit for the range, that's about it.
     
  6. Triggernosis

    Triggernosis Well-Known Member

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    Interesting post here.

    While we're at it, I've got a question along the same lines.
    Is there anything wrong with me using my cheap 3-piece aluminum bore rod? I thought about getting me a Dewey, Tipton, etc., but the aluminum one works just fine and being aluminum shouldn't damage the barrel, right? I DO use a plastic bore guide.
    I mean, what will a $30 bore rod do that mine won't currently do?
     
  7. Dzaw

    Dzaw Well-Known Member

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    Aluminum rods have 2 problems:

    1: they can easily pick up particles of dirt, metal shavings etc. and embed them in the soft aluminum body of the rod., When the rod flexes, these particles can do damage to the bore of the barrel. even if the rod doesn't contact the bore, if a small chip of sand (tiny bit of rock) dropps off the rod and gets caught up in a patch... scratches of that size aren't very good for your barrel.

    2: the joints in the rod are not very strong. These are the places with the most flex, ans they have relatively sharp corners to boot! When the rod flexes in the bore, of that sharp corner comes in contact with the bore, even being softer, it can still move small amounts of the steel, thus deforming the rifling and accuracy and barrel life suffer.

    If you are extraordinarily careful, and rediculously patient, I suppose it is possible to clean with an aluminum rod without damage, but why chance it? $12 - $30 is the cheapest insurance policy I've ever seen!
     
  8. Triggernosis

    Triggernosis Well-Known Member

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    Dzaw, that makes sense enough to me - I'll go ahead and get me a proper rod.
     
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  10. Triggernosis

    Triggernosis Well-Known Member

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    Ric,
    Are you saying that you mix the Kroil and Shooter's Choice together at a 1/2, 2/3 ratio?

    BTW, how do you know when you've got a bad copper problem - the patches keep coming out blue?
     
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  12. Triggernosis

    Triggernosis Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, Ric.
    Let's get a bit more technical here: when you say "wet brush for each shot", how exactly do you do it?
    Let's say I've fired 25 shots since my last cleaning - I would wet a bronze brush with the Kroil/SC mixture and push it through the bore, remove it from the rod at the muzzle, re-attach it and push it through again...25 times. Or do you not remove the brush and just pull it back through and back and forth until you've made 25 passes?

    Am I making this harder than it should be...? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
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  14. Delta Hunter

    Delta Hunter Well-Known Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I'll stay steadfast that too clean is bad...

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I'm of the same opinion.