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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
What am I doing wrong with sizing brass?
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<blockquote data-quote="Blackhawk" data-source="post: 1992713" data-attributes="member: 105459"><p><em><strong><span style="color: rgb(97, 189, 109)">I wouldn't write off your brass hulls just yet!</span></strong></em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>I don't understand why you would not want to remove the high spots on your case necks by simply as you know turning them ever so lightly unless you are experiencing neck tension issues.</em></p><p><em>You do not mention if and how many times your brass cases were annealed or even if you anneal.</em></p><p><em>If they have not been annealed this may be the culprit.</em></p><p><em>Brass shell case necks and shoulders work harden with every firing.</em></p><p><em>With that said, as you already know cases must be annealed at the right temperature and for the correct time.</em></p><p><em>Templaq , will indicate the correct temp and time under the flame. ( modern electronic annealing machines can literally pay for themselves by allowing your brass hulls an extended life or non annealed brass hulls)</em></p><p><em>You don't state whether or not you anneal.</em></p><p><em>If you would perhaps post a few images a better analysis can be made.</em></p><p><em>Did you look on the inside of your hulls and examine the case walls for any abnormalities.</em></p><p><em>This can test can be performed with the use of the straight end of a scribe tool.</em></p><p><em>Just run it along the case necks ID and feel for anything that is out of the ordinary, or you simply use a small flashlight and look at the Nek ID while rotating the case.</em></p><p><em>If nothing abnormal is found, try a dry neck lube before loading your powder and seating your bullets.</em></p><p><em>Before we go any further make certain that your die insides are as clean as possible.</em></p><p><em>( Hornady One-shot die cleaner and case lube works well here)</em></p><p><em>While we are on the lubricant subject before I FL resize any brass I make it a habit, to gently wipe each brass case neck and shoulder so a to prevent hydraulic dimpling or worse.</em></p><p><em>once you have FL resized and bumped your shoulder the recommended -.002"examine and wipe clean the case neck and mouth. </em></p><p><em>Do this with either a caliber specific nylon brush, followed up with a clean Q-Tip. In this manner, you have removed any residuals that your case lube may have trapped in your case neck.</em></p><p><em><strong>Hope that this will give you something to think about!</strong></em></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Blackhawk, post: 1992713, member: 105459"] [I][B][COLOR=rgb(97, 189, 109)]I wouldn't write off your brass hulls just yet![/COLOR][/B] I don't understand why you would not want to remove the high spots on your case necks by simply as you know turning them ever so lightly unless you are experiencing neck tension issues. You do not mention if and how many times your brass cases were annealed or even if you anneal. If they have not been annealed this may be the culprit. Brass shell case necks and shoulders work harden with every firing. With that said, as you already know cases must be annealed at the right temperature and for the correct time. Templaq , will indicate the correct temp and time under the flame. ( modern electronic annealing machines can literally pay for themselves by allowing your brass hulls an extended life or non annealed brass hulls) You don't state whether or not you anneal. If you would perhaps post a few images a better analysis can be made. Did you look on the inside of your hulls and examine the case walls for any abnormalities. This can test can be performed with the use of the straight end of a scribe tool. Just run it along the case necks ID and feel for anything that is out of the ordinary, or you simply use a small flashlight and look at the Nek ID while rotating the case. If nothing abnormal is found, try a dry neck lube before loading your powder and seating your bullets. Before we go any further make certain that your die insides are as clean as possible. ( Hornady One-shot die cleaner and case lube works well here) While we are on the lubricant subject before I FL resize any brass I make it a habit, to gently wipe each brass case neck and shoulder so a to prevent hydraulic dimpling or worse. once you have FL resized and bumped your shoulder the recommended -.002"examine and wipe clean the case neck and mouth. Do this with either a caliber specific nylon brush, followed up with a clean Q-Tip. In this manner, you have removed any residuals that your case lube may have trapped in your case neck. [B]Hope that this will give you something to think about![/B][/I] [/QUOTE]
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What am I doing wrong with sizing brass?
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