We plan on building a house soon that will have a poured concrete foundation for a walk-out basement. The rear third of the basement going width wise is designated for mechanical heating and air and to be unfinished. The rear 2/3rds other side of the drywall are two bedrooms and two baths and a T.V. room seperating the two bed and baths and there would be sliding glass doors. There is 3000 acres of woods out the backdoor, but no way a vehicle other than an ATV could get to those doors in the back, so a truck could not pull up with a chain, but could anchor to a tree with a power winch. The plans call for access to the mechanical area through one of the bedrooms between the bedroom part and the bath part. You would have to open the bedroom door to see the door to the unfinished area that forms the wall of the forward part of the foundation (that part entirely underground). I would like to put a gunsafe (and make it my workshop too) in this forward area, but I have been wondering about a steel safe door with combination leading to the area. I just don't understand what good a safe door does, when you could take an ax and knock out the adjacent wall of drywall and have complete access. Without having steel plating inside the drywall, how does this system work? Seems it only would work if you cemented the walls all around the enclosed area also. Would it be better just to put the safe inside and a deadbolt on the access door? I also will have a reasonable sized walk in master closet that could hold a gunsafe. I'm concerned about the relative humidy in the basement verses the groundlevel (from the front) bedroom which should remain drier. The furnace will be in the same area as the reloading area workbench and the guns (but not very close)so it may keep the basement pretty dry. Supposedly, a poured, and then waterproofed basement is not musty like a block basement. This would be in the Southeast climate wise if this matters (very humid summers and cold wet winters). What would you guys do if you where me? I hate to use up the closet upstairs, but will if it is neccesary. I don't want to rely on dehumidifers unless that is a given for the Southeast. Brand recomendations would be helpful. I was going to drop about $1600 on the safe, so what does a safe door cost properly installed? For the life of me, I just don't understand how a safe door is secure with drywall and studs on each side of it---what am I missing? And just for kicks May never do it, but might be nice to know) seems that to be an FFL holder nowdays you need some secure area for guns--what would be needed to pass that requirement over and above what I am planning? Maybe a seperate alarm on the gunroom independent of the house alarm?