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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Using cases as headspace gauges.
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<blockquote data-quote="backwoods83" data-source="post: 851718" data-attributes="member: 29890"><p>On a savage or a remage conversion if its the first time installing the barrel use a go gauge, you can cut a piece from a .004" thick feeler gauge and stick it to the back of the go gauge with plain ole grease and make a no go gauge. For the ones ripping tape, try removing the ejector! Once the barrel has been fired on a specific action, take a piece of the fired brass and size it the way you intend to always size it when reloading, then use it as a go gauge, and stick the same .004" thick piece of feeler gauge to the case head and the bolt shouldn't go more than 2/3s closed without excessive force. This is the best way, especially if you have the barrel back off, but you have rounds loaded for it like I mentioned earlier and your about to put the barrel back on. There is a simple reason for this, you will be firing cases, not headspace gauges. Also there are differences in gauges from one company to another, with most cartridges Forester allows .002" more on there no go than PTG. Another reason to use a case would be for a belted magnum, simply because the belted magnum headspace gauge is the same for all, but not all brands of cases have the same belt thickness, so use the brand of case you will be firing, in this instance its more accurate than headspace gauges. Btw, I'm not sure how many of you have taken any courses on gunsmithing, but you should know that depending on the type of firearm you can have .040-.085" excessive headspace before a case rupture. Good luck to y'all, happy bickering!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="backwoods83, post: 851718, member: 29890"] On a savage or a remage conversion if its the first time installing the barrel use a go gauge, you can cut a piece from a .004" thick feeler gauge and stick it to the back of the go gauge with plain ole grease and make a no go gauge. For the ones ripping tape, try removing the ejector! Once the barrel has been fired on a specific action, take a piece of the fired brass and size it the way you intend to always size it when reloading, then use it as a go gauge, and stick the same .004" thick piece of feeler gauge to the case head and the bolt shouldn't go more than 2/3s closed without excessive force. This is the best way, especially if you have the barrel back off, but you have rounds loaded for it like I mentioned earlier and your about to put the barrel back on. There is a simple reason for this, you will be firing cases, not headspace gauges. Also there are differences in gauges from one company to another, with most cartridges Forester allows .002" more on there no go than PTG. Another reason to use a case would be for a belted magnum, simply because the belted magnum headspace gauge is the same for all, but not all brands of cases have the same belt thickness, so use the brand of case you will be firing, in this instance its more accurate than headspace gauges. Btw, I'm not sure how many of you have taken any courses on gunsmithing, but you should know that depending on the type of firearm you can have .040-.085" excessive headspace before a case rupture. Good luck to y'all, happy bickering! [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Using cases as headspace gauges.
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