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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Used Rifling Buttons
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<blockquote data-quote="msalm" data-source="post: 962049" data-attributes="member: 8863"><p>That would be because a button doesn't 'cut' anything, it swages the steel into shape and at those pressures the carbide works better, can be polished to just as fine of finish, and typicall is coated. Buttoning a barrel would be far easier than cut. Probably the hardest part in either processes is drilling the hole...that is the one that takes expensive deep hole drilling equipment. You can fabricate a button puller with a little thought, time, scrap material and a hydraulic pump and cylinder.</p><p> </p><p>Cut rifling takes at the most .0002" cut per pass, .004" depth per groove, 6 groove equals a minimum of 120 passes per barrel. Not only do you need consistent twist, you need to be able to advance the cutter precisely and have it spring loaded on the pass back through the bore so the cutter doesn't drag too much. I have two hand operated cut machines, one an old rifling bench with the wooden twist guides, the other is a more modern sine bar machine. Either one is limited to about a 1-24" twist and for muzzleloader barrels only... Haven't tried to pull a cutter through 4140 or 416R yet and don't think I will.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="msalm, post: 962049, member: 8863"] That would be because a button doesn't 'cut' anything, it swages the steel into shape and at those pressures the carbide works better, can be polished to just as fine of finish, and typicall is coated. Buttoning a barrel would be far easier than cut. Probably the hardest part in either processes is drilling the hole...that is the one that takes expensive deep hole drilling equipment. You can fabricate a button puller with a little thought, time, scrap material and a hydraulic pump and cylinder. Cut rifling takes at the most .0002" cut per pass, .004" depth per groove, 6 groove equals a minimum of 120 passes per barrel. Not only do you need consistent twist, you need to be able to advance the cutter precisely and have it spring loaded on the pass back through the bore so the cutter doesn't drag too much. I have two hand operated cut machines, one an old rifling bench with the wooden twist guides, the other is a more modern sine bar machine. Either one is limited to about a 1-24" twist and for muzzleloader barrels only... Haven't tried to pull a cutter through 4140 or 416R yet and don't think I will. [/QUOTE]
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