Unchambered Lothar Walther/Blackstar Barrels

Discussion in 'Gun Parts - Stocks, Barrels, Actions, etc.' started by Joel Russo, Feb 20, 2008.

  1. Joel Russo

    Joel Russo Official LRH Sponsor

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    New unchambered, Satinless Steel, Barrels.

    1) .308, 10 twist, 1.200-straight taper to .900 at muzzle, finish at 27" ** SOLD **

    2) .308, 12 twist, 1.200-straight taper to .900 at muzzle, finish at 27" ** SOLD **

    3) .308, 9 twist, 1.200-straight taper to .840 at muzzle, finish at 31" ** SOLD **


    $225.00 each, shipped to the lower 48.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2008
  2. James Jones

    James Jones Well-Known Member

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    Joel I'll take the 1-9 twist barrel.

    PM inbound
     

  3. Joel Russo

    Joel Russo Official LRH Sponsor

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    9 Twist barrel is sold to James.
     
  4. James Jones

    James Jones Well-Known Member

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    These are great barrels for a hell of a deal guys you won't be dissapointed , I'd buy all three if I had the money.
    They shoot great clean up realy easy and the material their made from last longer than any other SS barrel on the market.
     
  5. specweldtom

    specweldtom Well-Known Member

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    Joel, I'd like to take the 10 or 12 twist barrel, depending on which one would be best for 200 gr bullets at 3200-3250 fps. Also, how long is the 1.2" dia shank?

    I've only used 10 twist barrels so far in the .30 x .378 Wby. and .300 RUM. No experience with the 12 twist. What do you think? How about you, James? I noticed you took the 9 twist 31". My email is specweldtom@sbcglobal.net. I'm computer challenged and can get P/M's but haven't been able to reliably send them.

    Thanks, Tom
     
  6. Joel Russo

    Joel Russo Official LRH Sponsor

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    Tom,

    Both will handle the velocity you are talking about if you are going to shoot out to 1000 yards. If your goal is to shoot beyond that, I would suggest you go with the 10 twist.

    1.200" shank is 4" long.
     
  7. specweldtom

    specweldtom Well-Known Member

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    Joel. I'll take the 10 twist, just in case the barrel ends up in a slower .30 cal cartridge. Right now I'm planning on chambering it in .30 x .378, but you know how projects change! Wish I could afford to get both, but the tax man cometh.

    Please e-mail your mailing address to me, or post a link to your business so I can get a check on the way.

    Thanks, Tom
     
  8. Joel Russo

    Joel Russo Official LRH Sponsor

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    Tom,

    PM sent with mailing address.
     
  9. specweldtom

    specweldtom Well-Known Member

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    Joel, P/M received and one sent (I hope). Will mail check tomorrow.

    Thanks, Tom
     
  10. James Jones

    James Jones Well-Known Member

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    Bump back up ,I was just looking at the barrel that Joel sent me , I was checking it out with a bore scope compaining it to a Bartlein , Hart and a Lilja I have here and I have to say I'm very impressed with the bore condition ,its noticably smoother than the others , has WAY less "tool" marks from the rifeling and lapping.

    Also a note for the guys that don't know , the material that is used in these barrel is much differant than whats normaly uses.

    416 SS normaly used in rifle barrels , has a yield strength of around 40 to 45 ksi and a Brinnel hardness of 230

    17-4 that is used in these barrels , has a yield strength of 135-145ksi and a brinnel hardness of 330+ !!!

    17-4 is much more resistant to erosion and corrosion making it perfect for barrels.
     
  11. Joel Russo

    Joel Russo Official LRH Sponsor

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    All Barrels listed are sold. Thank You Gentlemen.

    I will be listing more shortly.
     
  12. olcrip

    olcrip Well-Known Member

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    At a 330+ brinell hardness, what will it do to a chamber reimer? Has to be hard on it!
     
  13. James Jones

    James Jones Well-Known Member

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    when chambering these barrel you have to take care to keep the reamer cool and use a good cutting oil , a chamber flush system is optimal but one can get a great chamber by just dabbing oil on the reamer each time he cleans it , of course it would be best of you either drill or bore the chamber out close to the reamer size first or use a roughing reamer but its not absolutly needed. If you try to run it to fast and get impatient with will be hard on the reamer.

    Good cutting oil Like Moly-Dee and frequient cleaning of the reamer and chamber make it no big deal.