Twist rates are for smrat people!!

300WMguy

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Jul 13, 2011
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Hey all, I am from northern Canada and am a rookie reloader. I bought a box of 200gr barnes TSX's for my 300WM today. I noticed on the box in plain english "1:10 twist rate" my Sako A7 has a 1:11 twist.... I had opened the box and loaded 5 by the time I noticed. I went with 58gr of RL-22 and 3.34"COAL and winchester large rifle primer for starters.

Is the longer twist rate on my gun gonna have me chasing my tail???

thanks in advance... Ryan
 
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Hey all, I am from northern Canada and am a rookie reloader. I bought a box of 200gr barnes TSX's for my 300WM today. I noticed on the box in plain english "1:10 twist rate" my Sako A7 has a 1:11 twist.... I had opened the box and loaded 5 by the time I noticed. I went with 58gr of RL-22 and 3.34"COAL and winchester large rifle primer for starters.

Is the longer twist rate on my gun gonna have me chasing my tail???

thanks in advance... Ryan

Ryan,

The 1 in 10 is a general minimum twist rate to stabilize that heavy bullet. However there are other factors that play in the overall equation, such as barrel length. 1 in 11 may be close enough. The best way to find out is to load em up and shoot them.

Good Luck!
 
They will go through an 11 twist, they may suffer some accuracy and you will need to push them faster and re22 is not a good powder for a 300wm try H4831.
 
Hmmmm that may some be good addvice right there..... How about RL-19???? I have tons of that lying around.
 
RE19 is a lot better than 22 in a 300wm but my 3 go to powders are 1 Imr4350, 2 H4831, 3 Imr4831. Occasionally I will use Imr7828 or H1000 but not often.
 
There have been some very experienced people who have gotten great results with RL22 in the 300 Win mag. It likes a heavy bullet and long barrel.
 
The suggested twist rate is to guarantee stability under all possible conditions. If you shoot well above sea level on a hot day from a very good barrel that is clean, you can use a slower twist rate and sometimes do better by doing so.

For instance: Recommended twist for one of my bullets is 1:8", but I shoot it from a 1:9" twist barrel and I am very sub-MOA at 200 yards at 3300 feet and 40F temp. At -6F I had one bullet out of 10 that keyholed, but it was from a copper fouled barrel at the end of the shooting string.

To be ideal, your twist rate would have to change with altitude, humidity, temperature, velocity, and barrel condition to be ideal. If you do not turn at the ideal rate, then a bit faster is better than a bit slower. Manufacturers tend to suggest a bit more twist than is usually needed under most conditions.

Also, a suppressor tends to improve accuracy if twisting at a slower than recommended rate, but few people risk it for fear of a baffle strike. In one instance I know about, Aguila 60-grain SniperSubsonic was keyholing from a 16" twist CZ rimfire barrel. When a miniature 5" suppressor was added, it shot as accurately as 40-grain bullets and there was no keyholing at 100 yards (and all you heard was firing pin strike and a splat on the target a bit later). This could be suppressor specific as well. A monocore baffle would seem to be the best in that regard as an object will self align in an oversize tube that has high velocity gas flowing past it. The monocore baffle gets rid of baffle strike issues as well. It is a tube with cross drilled holes in it. A crossdrilled muzzle brake that is long will have a similar effect, but less effect since gas flow escapes to the side at a higher rate than in a sealed suppressor.

In air rifles, a muzzle brake (called a muzzle flip by the Brit airgunners) will usually increase accuracy. So will a straight round tube that is centered on the bore and mounted in place of the muzzle brake. All these things use the principle of gas flow in a tube centering a round object in the tube in order to equalize pressure all around the object.
 
My .300WinMag shoots sub 1/2" with RL22. I was locked in with that powder until I tried H1000 -Wow! it shoots even tighter.
In all fairness though, my rifle shoots great with H4350 and IMR4831. I keep H4831(SC) on hand but not sure I've tried it in it yet, or will. JohnnyK.
 
I live at the higher end of MT and I get away with a slower twist rates than most but if I ever were to go to sea level and shoot I may have some issues.
 
Maybe this works to my favor as well as I am around 3000' or so. I range tested this load the other day and was Impressed by the groups. My 5 shot group was about 2" with 3 shots using the same hole pretty much. I'll load the next one a touch hotter and keep working up. The holes left on the page were perfect no key holes to speak of. Thanks for all the help.

Can anyone recommend some copper solvent as well as some tips on removing copper from the barrel. If these Barnes bullets foul things up I wanna know what to do.
 
I do not use copper solvent. I am allergic to most copper solvents and similar firearms cleaning solvents. I use Remington 40-X which is a very mild abrasive which is harder than copper or carbon fouling, but softer than ordnance steel. It is used similar to JB Bore Paste, but is much finer and less aggressive. Puts a reallly good polish on your bore and prevents future fouling. Remington 40-X works faster and better than any of the copper solvents for me, and the nice part is that it is safer to use from a health perspective.
 
Well I'm glad I asked I would never have thought of something like Remington 40-X. You say its light polish of some sort?? Well ill see if there is any of that at the local gun shop.
 
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