Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Torque Recomendations
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="J E Custom" data-source="post: 1481452" data-attributes="member: 2736"><p>Lots of people hammer the new barrels back on and don't torque them. Just not me ! I use a wrench that fits on the receiver ring and doesn't load the lugs or the ejection port. Actions can be damaged if care is not taken. I use copper shim stock to line the wrench to prevent marring and the action screw to index and prevent the wrench from turning.</p><p></p><p>In my opinion, torquing is consistent and has the lowest chance of damage to anything. I performed some test on barrel torque by making them up to a mark and measuring the torque to recommended values. hammering was not very precise. making the barrel tenon up without any thing on it (Dry)Showed mixed results and landed the action in different places according to the mark with the same torque.</p><p></p><p>Some smiths use regular gun oil on these threads. I preferred to use an anti seize for more consistent results for many years until I tried to improve the process. This was the results.</p><p></p><p>I tried different anti seize compounds and some thread lubricants. The most consistent lube I found was the ARP Bolt Assembly Lubricant That is designed for torquing high strength bolts for even torque values.</p><p></p><p><a href="https://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=88" target="_blank">https://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=88</a></p><p></p><p>Of all the different things tried, this was the best and the most consistently repeatable.</p><p></p><p>It also reduced the torque wrench value buy 18% to reach the mark.</p><p>I feel that 100 inch/pounds is to much and not necessary. I found that there was no accuracy advantage to any torque above 35 in/lbs and settled for 55 in/lbs with thread lube and 65 to 70 in/lbs without.</p><p></p><p>I use the big rubber hammer to tear down barreled actions for the impact value and to prevent damage to my tools. I have only had one barrel that i couldn't break down and it was a Weatherby Vanguard as someone said and cut a relief cut just in front of the action. (It was a bad barrel and could not be used for anything but a tomato stake.</p><p></p><p>As to the question about the savages, I re barrel using the shoulder and recoil lug like the Remington's so I end up with a 1.250 shank instead of 1.000. and no barrel nut. they look great and shoot better in my opinion. Like all actions, different things and assembly techniques may vary but the savage action is no less than other actions if set up correctly.</p><p></p><p>J E CUSTOM</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J E Custom, post: 1481452, member: 2736"] Lots of people hammer the new barrels back on and don't torque them. Just not me ! I use a wrench that fits on the receiver ring and doesn't load the lugs or the ejection port. Actions can be damaged if care is not taken. I use copper shim stock to line the wrench to prevent marring and the action screw to index and prevent the wrench from turning. In my opinion, torquing is consistent and has the lowest chance of damage to anything. I performed some test on barrel torque by making them up to a mark and measuring the torque to recommended values. hammering was not very precise. making the barrel tenon up without any thing on it (Dry)Showed mixed results and landed the action in different places according to the mark with the same torque. Some smiths use regular gun oil on these threads. I preferred to use an anti seize for more consistent results for many years until I tried to improve the process. This was the results. I tried different anti seize compounds and some thread lubricants. The most consistent lube I found was the ARP Bolt Assembly Lubricant That is designed for torquing high strength bolts for even torque values. [URL]https://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=88[/URL] Of all the different things tried, this was the best and the most consistently repeatable. It also reduced the torque wrench value buy 18% to reach the mark. I feel that 100 inch/pounds is to much and not necessary. I found that there was no accuracy advantage to any torque above 35 in/lbs and settled for 55 in/lbs with thread lube and 65 to 70 in/lbs without. I use the big rubber hammer to tear down barreled actions for the impact value and to prevent damage to my tools. I have only had one barrel that i couldn't break down and it was a Weatherby Vanguard as someone said and cut a relief cut just in front of the action. (It was a bad barrel and could not be used for anything but a tomato stake. As to the question about the savages, I re barrel using the shoulder and recoil lug like the Remington's so I end up with a 1.250 shank instead of 1.000. and no barrel nut. they look great and shoot better in my opinion. Like all actions, different things and assembly techniques may vary but the savage action is no less than other actions if set up correctly. J E CUSTOM [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Torque Recomendations
Top