Torque Recomendations

I shoot several competition rifles and use a well known smith. I have seen him thread a barrel in the action till it stops with a side entry wrench, then smack the wrench hard several times, with a carpenters hammer. He does not measure torque.

Question: Savage three screw actions are very sensitive to torque, and I have read several articles with differing opinons re three screw torque for best accuracy. Here is one article and I have tried that method, with limited success:

http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/savage-action-screw-torque-tuning/

JE - Are Savage actions diffcult? What do you recommend?
 
I shoot several competition rifles and use a well known smith. I have seen him thread a barrel in the action till it stops with a side entry wrench, then smack the wrench hard several times, with a carpenters hammer. He does not measure torque.

Question: Savage three screw actions are very sensitive to torque, and I have read several articles with differing opinons re three screw torque for best accuracy. Here is one article and I have tried that method, with limited success:

http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/savage-action-screw-torque-tuning/

JE - Are Savage actions diffcult? What do you recommend?


Lots of people hammer the new barrels back on and don't torque them. Just not me ! I use a wrench that fits on the receiver ring and doesn't load the lugs or the ejection port. Actions can be damaged if care is not taken. I use copper shim stock to line the wrench to prevent marring and the action screw to index and prevent the wrench from turning.

In my opinion, torquing is consistent and has the lowest chance of damage to anything. I performed some test on barrel torque by making them up to a mark and measuring the torque to recommended values. hammering was not very precise. making the barrel tenon up without any thing on it (Dry)Showed mixed results and landed the action in different places according to the mark with the same torque.

Some smiths use regular gun oil on these threads. I preferred to use an anti seize for more consistent results for many years until I tried to improve the process. This was the results.

I tried different anti seize compounds and some thread lubricants. The most consistent lube I found was the ARP Bolt Assembly Lubricant That is designed for torquing high strength bolts for even torque values.

https://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=88

Of all the different things tried, this was the best and the most consistently repeatable.

It also reduced the torque wrench value buy 18% to reach the mark.
I feel that 100 inch/pounds is to much and not necessary. I found that there was no accuracy advantage to any torque above 35 in/lbs and settled for 55 in/lbs with thread lube and 65 to 70 in/lbs without.

I use the big rubber hammer to tear down barreled actions for the impact value and to prevent damage to my tools. I have only had one barrel that i couldn't break down and it was a Weatherby Vanguard as someone said and cut a relief cut just in front of the action. (It was a bad barrel and could not be used for anything but a tomato stake.

As to the question about the savages, I re barrel using the shoulder and recoil lug like the Remington's so I end up with a 1.250 shank instead of 1.000. and no barrel nut. they look great and shoot better in my opinion. Like all actions, different things and assembly techniques may vary but the savage action is no less than other actions if set up correctly.

J E CUSTOM
 
I start by making up the action screws by hand ( Snug ) front
screw first then the rear next.

Then with the torque wrench I start the front at 20 inch/lbs and then
the rear.

If it is the first time fired after bedding I go up in 10 inch/lb increments to
35 to 40 inch/lbs and let it set for several days before shooting.

At the range I will fire a 5 shot group and let cool and clean, then raise
the torque in five inch pound increments and shoot 5 more rounds and continue
the procedure (Shoot,clean and torque) untill there is no improvement
in the group size.

This allows the bedding to be seated in properly, but no more than nessary.

Once the optimum torque is reached the in/lbs goes in the load data for
that rifle for future reference.

On rifles that have heavy recoil I have had to work all the way up to 65 inch/lbs.

"NOTE" This procedure will work on all stocks but dont exceed the max recomended
torque for the type of stock and bedding system your using. Also I like to wait 4 or 5
days after bedding to start this process even though the bedding manufacture may
say 24 hours is enough time.

This is the way I do it and even though it may seem like overkill it works well for me
and is very consistent (repeatable) each time the barreled action is removed from
the stock.

Good Luck and I hope this helps.
J E CUSTOM

Sorry I PMed you this question as well as I was trying to find the post.

Is it okay to just snug the top action screw lightly then the bottom screw lightly. Then stand the rifle up on its butt stock (tap lightly on carpeted floor to settle action) then start alternating tightening the top screw and bottom until complete while its standing? Or is it better to do this with the action face down on a table for example?

I read your post on how to start with the top screw and then the bottom screw and gradually alternate to get to specified torque but wasn't sure if doing this while rifle was standing was okay. I have pillar bedded Seekins PH2 Hunter .308
 
I was reading the help section and thought I was crazy thought I must have missed the part about the 10+ thing. I am not sure what I did when I contacted J E Customs.... I thought I PMed him. Sorry all.
 
Ehh So I am trying to figure out how to PM you.
You may not be able to just yet due to the 'New Member' status.
Is it okay to just snug the top action screw lightly then the bottom screw lightly. Then stand the rifle up on its butt stock (tap lightly on carpeted floor to settle action) then start alternating tightening the top screw and bottom until complete while its standing?
This is how I do it. After making sure the recoil lug is seated I tighten both evenly in 10" lb increments until my desired torque value is reached.

Also….Just so you're aware….we lost our beloved member J E Custom to Covid in January of this year.
 
You may not be able to just yet due to the 'New Member' status.

This is how I do it. After making sure the recoil lug is seated I tighten both evenly in 10" lb increments until my desired torque value is reached.

Also….Just so you're aware….we lost our beloved member J E Custom to Covid in January of this year.

Oh my I am so sorry to hear that news. He seemed to have a wealth of info.
 
You may not be able to just yet due to the 'New Member' status.

This is how I do it. After making sure the recoil lug is seated I tighten both evenly in 10" lb increments until my desired torque value is reached.

Also….Just so you're aware….we lost our beloved member J E Custom to Covid in January of this year.
RIP JE Custom, your insight and comradery will be missed!
 
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