Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
To slug or not for Cast bullets
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Kennibear" data-source="post: 911563" data-attributes="member: 51650"><p>Concerning obturation:</p><p></p><p>Everything posted by Lefty is correct in as far as it goes and expresses the current "best practice". I have yet to find a auto pistol with a chamber so tight it would not feed and function with a 0.002" larger bullet. One of the quirks of lead bullets is the seating process sizes them down from the force of neck tension. Try seating a measured bullet and pull it with a hammer style bullet puller and you will find it was sized down in diameter. Thus the recommendation that you use 0.001" over bullets. I have used 0.357" in 9mm (0.355" nominal) with no problem. Chambers are not so tight that 0.002" over won't work. I would start with 0.401" for the 40 S&W and if I could only buy 0.402"- no problem!</p><p></p><p>Bullets cast of the alloy I spoke of earlier are so strong they never swell up to obturate. They behave like the copper/gilding metal monolithic bullets we use everyday. The makers are adding over sized driving bands on those to help the gas seal as they are too sturdy to obturate effectively. I use 0.458" bullets in my 45/70 because of that. They are oversize enough to obturate the bore without having to be "bumped up" by powder pressure. Cup and core bullets are primarily lead surrounded by a thin patch of copper/gilding metal. The strongest lead core is not more than 3% Antimony and work softened by the forming process. Those bullets are bumped up ever so slightly by the chamber pressure especially at 60Kpsi. My alloy is 11.2% Antimony triple chilled and it is strong as hell. They see maybe 25Kpsi and using NRA Formula bullet lube they <strong><em>NEVER</em></strong> lead.</p><p></p><p>I reload 40 S&W for my two young ones still at home (his: Berretta PX4, hers: S&W M&P 40) and use plated bullets because all the local indoor ranges forbid cast bullets. You will find a good load if you use 180gr cast FN and a modest charge of powder. Any load that functions your pistol reliably has to be above a squib load. I use 7.5gr of Hodgdon's Longshot and it is listed as max but shows zero signs of pressure in either gun. 8gr of Longshot is max for 180 gr Hornady XTP. HP38/WW231 works very well. Unique is the cast bullet King. Do not use Bullseye as it is pretty dirty. Red Dot is very bulky and is a secret weapon of many cast bullet aficionados and is the substitute for Bullseye. Lots of other newer powders but this list is a good start. Use the heaviest standard weight for caliber you can find as the lower velocity is better for accuracy and leading.</p><p></p><p>Gas Checks eliminate the worry of obturating the bore as the base of the bullet is now acting like a jacketed bullet. I quit using them in revolvers and pistols as they were a waste of money at those velocities. Revolvers should be sized to the cylinder throat <em>unless</em> you use really hard bullets. I use Wheel Weight alloy as recovered with triple chilled processing and NRA Lube for GP shooting in handguns. The triple chill makes the surface as hard as Linotype and the bullets perform superbly at velocities up to 1500/1600 fps. Most of my bullets are plain base and they leave nothing on the table performance wise.</p><p></p><p>Cast bullets will allow you a lot of practice at affordable prices. It is another extremely enjoyable aspect of this hobby that is all consuming. Welcome !!!</p><p></p><p>KB</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Kennibear, post: 911563, member: 51650"] Concerning obturation: Everything posted by Lefty is correct in as far as it goes and expresses the current "best practice". I have yet to find a auto pistol with a chamber so tight it would not feed and function with a 0.002" larger bullet. One of the quirks of lead bullets is the seating process sizes them down from the force of neck tension. Try seating a measured bullet and pull it with a hammer style bullet puller and you will find it was sized down in diameter. Thus the recommendation that you use 0.001" over bullets. I have used 0.357" in 9mm (0.355" nominal) with no problem. Chambers are not so tight that 0.002" over won't work. I would start with 0.401" for the 40 S&W and if I could only buy 0.402"- no problem! Bullets cast of the alloy I spoke of earlier are so strong they never swell up to obturate. They behave like the copper/gilding metal monolithic bullets we use everyday. The makers are adding over sized driving bands on those to help the gas seal as they are too sturdy to obturate effectively. I use 0.458" bullets in my 45/70 because of that. They are oversize enough to obturate the bore without having to be "bumped up" by powder pressure. Cup and core bullets are primarily lead surrounded by a thin patch of copper/gilding metal. The strongest lead core is not more than 3% Antimony and work softened by the forming process. Those bullets are bumped up ever so slightly by the chamber pressure especially at 60Kpsi. My alloy is 11.2% Antimony triple chilled and it is strong as hell. They see maybe 25Kpsi and using NRA Formula bullet lube they [B][I]NEVER[/I][/B] lead. I reload 40 S&W for my two young ones still at home (his: Berretta PX4, hers: S&W M&P 40) and use plated bullets because all the local indoor ranges forbid cast bullets. You will find a good load if you use 180gr cast FN and a modest charge of powder. Any load that functions your pistol reliably has to be above a squib load. I use 7.5gr of Hodgdon's Longshot and it is listed as max but shows zero signs of pressure in either gun. 8gr of Longshot is max for 180 gr Hornady XTP. HP38/WW231 works very well. Unique is the cast bullet King. Do not use Bullseye as it is pretty dirty. Red Dot is very bulky and is a secret weapon of many cast bullet aficionados and is the substitute for Bullseye. Lots of other newer powders but this list is a good start. Use the heaviest standard weight for caliber you can find as the lower velocity is better for accuracy and leading. Gas Checks eliminate the worry of obturating the bore as the base of the bullet is now acting like a jacketed bullet. I quit using them in revolvers and pistols as they were a waste of money at those velocities. Revolvers should be sized to the cylinder throat [I]unless[/I] you use really hard bullets. I use Wheel Weight alloy as recovered with triple chilled processing and NRA Lube for GP shooting in handguns. The triple chill makes the surface as hard as Linotype and the bullets perform superbly at velocities up to 1500/1600 fps. Most of my bullets are plain base and they leave nothing on the table performance wise. Cast bullets will allow you a lot of practice at affordable prices. It is another extremely enjoyable aspect of this hobby that is all consuming. Welcome !!! KB [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
To slug or not for Cast bullets
Top