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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
To remage or not to remage, that is my question?
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 840176" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>one more time;</p><p> </p><p>engineering wise the nut is better. How much will be debated till the end of time, but it is. Every barrel you have will have to be head spaced by a gunsmith when using the shoulder option. Then you can swap barrels till your blue in the face. The shoulder lockup on the thread leaves the threads free after they take up the clearance machined into them (about .005" to .008"), or about five turns max. Now with the nut you thread the barrel into a headspace gauge tightly and tighten the nut to about 35 lb.. Yes you will pull the barrel forward about five thousandths max. But the entire thread will be in contact with the female thread form instead of the last two thirds hanging out there loosely. A stretched thread is also as strait as the female thread is cut. The firing pin lets go and starts the ignition process. The shock will try to move the barrel in two directions at the sametime when the bullet contacts the rifling. It does this with a shoulder lock up fairly easily. But with the threads in contact, you only deal with the like reaction of the bullet striking the rifling. Some will say this movement means little, but once again they're dead wrong. As the primer goes off and the powder burn starts, the case is expanding and moving in the chamber causing the barreling to move inside the female threads. That is unless it's in full contact. Gunsmiths don't like barrel nuts because they can't get inside your wallet. But over the years some folks have tried adding a pilot shoulder on the barrel's thread to guide the barrel into center. Not a bad idea, but on a Remington the bridge is already considered too short to start with, plus in the end the male thread ends up hanging out there loose. The true test of this is to coat the male thread with red lead, and brush high spot blue on the female thread. Then tighten them up. You'll be lucky to see 25 to 30% contact even with ground threads. </p><p> </p><p>If you have access to a mechanical CAD program, then draw it up, and plug in 65K psi with out even adding the bullet weight and striking force. By factoring in that added force your see the barrel twisting backwards from the rifling due to the like reaction caused by the travel of the bullet thru the barrel. In the world of thread forms a stretched thread is always considered superior.</p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 840176, member: 25383"] one more time; engineering wise the nut is better. How much will be debated till the end of time, but it is. Every barrel you have will have to be head spaced by a gunsmith when using the shoulder option. Then you can swap barrels till your blue in the face. The shoulder lockup on the thread leaves the threads free after they take up the clearance machined into them (about .005" to .008"), or about five turns max. Now with the nut you thread the barrel into a headspace gauge tightly and tighten the nut to about 35 lb.. Yes you will pull the barrel forward about five thousandths max. But the entire thread will be in contact with the female thread form instead of the last two thirds hanging out there loosely. A stretched thread is also as strait as the female thread is cut. The firing pin lets go and starts the ignition process. The shock will try to move the barrel in two directions at the sametime when the bullet contacts the rifling. It does this with a shoulder lock up fairly easily. But with the threads in contact, you only deal with the like reaction of the bullet striking the rifling. Some will say this movement means little, but once again they're dead wrong. As the primer goes off and the powder burn starts, the case is expanding and moving in the chamber causing the barreling to move inside the female threads. That is unless it's in full contact. Gunsmiths don't like barrel nuts because they can't get inside your wallet. But over the years some folks have tried adding a pilot shoulder on the barrel's thread to guide the barrel into center. Not a bad idea, but on a Remington the bridge is already considered too short to start with, plus in the end the male thread ends up hanging out there loose. The true test of this is to coat the male thread with red lead, and brush high spot blue on the female thread. Then tighten them up. You'll be lucky to see 25 to 30% contact even with ground threads. If you have access to a mechanical CAD program, then draw it up, and plug in 65K psi with out even adding the bullet weight and striking force. By factoring in that added force your see the barrel twisting backwards from the rifling due to the like reaction caused by the travel of the bullet thru the barrel. In the world of thread forms a stretched thread is always considered superior. gary [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
To remage or not to remage, that is my question?
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