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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
?To nut or not to nut?
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<blockquote data-quote="MSU Marksman" data-source="post: 426190" data-attributes="member: 8847"><p><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'Calibri'">I think this is an excellent thread with a ton of excellent information, just not necessarily relative information. When you start talking thread engagement, you are on a completely different order of relevance to accuracy than other factors. And while on paper there can be points made about the which way is "better", the fact is that in the real world there are many more contributing factors to accuracy that are variable that will come in to play before you'll ever be able to produce conclusive results from different threading techniques. </span></span></p><p> </p><p> </p><p><span style="font-family: 'Calibri'"><span style="font-size: 12px">That being said, one thing that does often matter is the "squarness" of the face of the action, the recoil lug (both sides), and either the face/end of tennon or barrel nut.</span></span></p><p> </p><p> </p><p><span style="font-family: 'Calibri'"><span style="font-size: 12px">If you truly are never planning on changing the barrel yourself, then skip the nut. This will also allow you to use a barrel with a heavier profile as it isn't being limited to the nut.</span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="font-family: 'Calibri'"><span style="font-size: 12px">If there's the slightest change that you might end up wanting to swap the barrel at a later date, then have the action face, recoil lug, and barrel nut squared together.</span></span></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MSU Marksman, post: 426190, member: 8847"] [SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]I think this is an excellent thread with a ton of excellent information, just not necessarily relative information. When you start talking thread engagement, you are on a completely different order of relevance to accuracy than other factors. And while on paper there can be points made about the which way is “better”, the fact is that in the real world there are many more contributing factors to accuracy that are variable that will come in to play before you’ll ever be able to produce conclusive results from different threading techniques. [/FONT][/SIZE] [FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3] [/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3] [/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3]That being said, one thing that does often matter is the “squarness” of the face of the action, the recoil lug (both sides), and either the face/end of tennon or barrel nut.[/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3] [/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3] [/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3]If you truly are never planning on changing the barrel yourself, then skip the nut. This will also allow you to use a barrel with a heavier profile as it isn’t being limited to the nut.[/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3] [/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3]If there’s the slightest change that you might end up wanting to swap the barrel at a later date, then have the action face, recoil lug, and barrel nut squared together.[/SIZE][/FONT] [/QUOTE]
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Gunsmithing
?To nut or not to nut?
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