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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
To neck turn, to ream or not to ream?
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<blockquote data-quote="DUSTY NOGGIN" data-source="post: 1550359" data-attributes="member: 89550"><p>alot of sporting good stores stock these , about 15 bucks and you have an adapter for your drill that'll clamp on your brass</p><p></p><p>for your 270 sized brass</p><p><a href="https://leeprecision.com/gage-holder-270-win.html" target="_blank">https://leeprecision.com/gage-holder-270-win.html</a></p><p></p><p>for the 358 win this page say they have "custom but ready to ship "</p><p><a href="https://leeprecision.com/case-conditioning-tools/case-trimming-tools/case-length-gauge-holder/" target="_blank">https://leeprecision.com/case-conditioning-tools/case-trimming-tools/case-length-gauge-holder/</a></p><p></p><p>but really they are like shell holders , just get a different cartridge with the same case head size and your good (( unless you wanna utilize that trimming pilot that comes with it ))</p><p></p><p>this part is the adapter to your drill</p><p><a href="https://leeprecision.com/large-cutter-with-lock-stud.html" target="_blank">https://leeprecision.com/large-cutter-with-lock-stud.html</a></p><p></p><p>the expander mandrel need is likely, about half the time your expander button in the sizing die is the perfect size ,</p><p></p><p>too tight on the turning pilot and the friction will heat up and it wont cut right , too loose and it wont cut right either,</p><p></p><p>annealing before , to me seems soften brass so it will push any donut to the outside of the neck , to be turned off . plus softens brass to prevent cracking at the neck shoulder junction because of the immediate brass thickness differences</p><p></p><p></p><p>first either find a drawing or better yet measure your chamber neck , so you have a target measurement that you want your neck to be , then start with a couple cases to used that you dont care if you ruin to test with and set up your tool ,, before you dedicate a certain cut depth , start light & cut so that it doesn't cut all of the way around (you will find it does cut 100% diameter on a few of them) **** this is the point when you realize how different the brass is in the same lot and you should turn all the brass you reload **** i try to set my depth so that about 20-30% dont get the full cut and those dont make it to the good brass box .. i get the concentricity of it with the consistent release while maintaining as much material in the neck as possible </p><p></p><p>i ruined quite a few cases cutting too close to the shoulder , by giving it a breaking point when expanding the neck at firing ,, try to resist that urge to run the angled cutter up the shoulder all the way , ** your 280AI chamber has a small radius here anyway ** on the other side of the coin if you stay too far away that extra material you left will become a donut for sure down the road</p><p></p><p>then you have to seat a bullet to measure how thick your neck walls ended up ,</p><p></p><p>most of the cases i do start at about .015 neck , and have found if you cut too thin ( say .012 ) they seat way too easy and i think they could get bumped out of seat by recoil , plus they will be expanding more and more prone to cracking - because of the immediate difference in brass thickness between the original shoulder and the now thinner neck ,</p><p></p><p>i am certain you will be glad you invested in the turner tools , you may as well save some shipping and get pilots for everthing you own</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DUSTY NOGGIN, post: 1550359, member: 89550"] alot of sporting good stores stock these , about 15 bucks and you have an adapter for your drill that'll clamp on your brass for your 270 sized brass [URL]https://leeprecision.com/gage-holder-270-win.html[/URL] for the 358 win this page say they have "custom but ready to ship " [URL]https://leeprecision.com/case-conditioning-tools/case-trimming-tools/case-length-gauge-holder/[/URL] but really they are like shell holders , just get a different cartridge with the same case head size and your good (( unless you wanna utilize that trimming pilot that comes with it )) this part is the adapter to your drill [URL]https://leeprecision.com/large-cutter-with-lock-stud.html[/URL] the expander mandrel need is likely, about half the time your expander button in the sizing die is the perfect size , too tight on the turning pilot and the friction will heat up and it wont cut right , too loose and it wont cut right either, annealing before , to me seems soften brass so it will push any donut to the outside of the neck , to be turned off . plus softens brass to prevent cracking at the neck shoulder junction because of the immediate brass thickness differences first either find a drawing or better yet measure your chamber neck , so you have a target measurement that you want your neck to be , then start with a couple cases to used that you dont care if you ruin to test with and set up your tool ,, before you dedicate a certain cut depth , start light & cut so that it doesn't cut all of the way around (you will find it does cut 100% diameter on a few of them) **** this is the point when you realize how different the brass is in the same lot and you should turn all the brass you reload **** i try to set my depth so that about 20-30% dont get the full cut and those dont make it to the good brass box .. i get the concentricity of it with the consistent release while maintaining as much material in the neck as possible i ruined quite a few cases cutting too close to the shoulder , by giving it a breaking point when expanding the neck at firing ,, try to resist that urge to run the angled cutter up the shoulder all the way , ** your 280AI chamber has a small radius here anyway ** on the other side of the coin if you stay too far away that extra material you left will become a donut for sure down the road then you have to seat a bullet to measure how thick your neck walls ended up , most of the cases i do start at about .015 neck , and have found if you cut too thin ( say .012 ) they seat way too easy and i think they could get bumped out of seat by recoil , plus they will be expanding more and more prone to cracking - because of the immediate difference in brass thickness between the original shoulder and the now thinner neck , i am certain you will be glad you invested in the turner tools , you may as well save some shipping and get pilots for everthing you own [/QUOTE]
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To neck turn, to ream or not to ream?
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