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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Timing a muzzle brake
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<blockquote data-quote="Blackhawk" data-source="post: 1646307" data-attributes="member: 105459"><p>Muzzle brakes can be a literal bugger to install correctly. Your issue here with the thread not being cut deep enough on the inside of that brand of muzzle break. If you are so inclined purchase a 5/8 X 24 TP! " (I Assume that this is the Thread size) tap and place the muzzle brake in a lathe( or support it in a barrel vice )and continue to tap the threads deeper into the muzzle brake assuming that you had enough of a bore to get purchase for the threads and that is a lot. Or bring it to a machine shop or gunsmith. All this is in my opinion is a waste of time. Just send this one back for a refund! On your second one you can buy a variety of crush washers/ shims in different thicknesses and shim to correct depth. Try turning the brake lightly in a back & forth motion applying pressure on the washers keep at it a little at a time. If you need to either remove or add to your stack until you have it in time. Work slowly and carefully until timing has been achieved. Once in place do not plan on removal. Crush washers will prevent that. If you want a brake with easy install get a tunable 2 piece unit. In this manner with little effort you can remove said brake for cleaning /or to apply to another weapon providing both have the same (TPI )threads per inch. Look at the MTB Lil Bastard, in either 3 ,or four vents) This is what I currently have on my 6.5creedmoor, 308, 30-06</p><p>& 300 Win Mag FYI I'm a retired tool and die maker with 34 years experience and trying to set up a muzzle brake correctly takes (in my opinion) at least two people ,and some time plus equipment. Oh yeah when tuning the brake with a wrench place a plastic lunch bag over the two flats then place your wrench over them to prevent marring or gouging your brake. this will make a nice clean professional looking job.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Blackhawk, post: 1646307, member: 105459"] Muzzle brakes can be a literal bugger to install correctly. Your issue here with the thread not being cut deep enough on the inside of that brand of muzzle break. If you are so inclined purchase a 5/8 X 24 TP! " (I Assume that this is the Thread size) tap and place the muzzle brake in a lathe( or support it in a barrel vice )and continue to tap the threads deeper into the muzzle brake assuming that you had enough of a bore to get purchase for the threads and that is a lot. Or bring it to a machine shop or gunsmith. All this is in my opinion is a waste of time. Just send this one back for a refund! On your second one you can buy a variety of crush washers/ shims in different thicknesses and shim to correct depth. Try turning the brake lightly in a back & forth motion applying pressure on the washers keep at it a little at a time. If you need to either remove or add to your stack until you have it in time. Work slowly and carefully until timing has been achieved. Once in place do not plan on removal. Crush washers will prevent that. If you want a brake with easy install get a tunable 2 piece unit. In this manner with little effort you can remove said brake for cleaning /or to apply to another weapon providing both have the same (TPI )threads per inch. Look at the MTB Lil Bastard, in either 3 ,or four vents) This is what I currently have on my 6.5creedmoor, 308, 30-06 & 300 Win Mag FYI I'm a retired tool and die maker with 34 years experience and trying to set up a muzzle brake correctly takes (in my opinion) at least two people ,and some time plus equipment. Oh yeah when tuning the brake with a wrench place a plastic lunch bag over the two flats then place your wrench over them to prevent marring or gouging your brake. this will make a nice clean professional looking job. [/QUOTE]
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Gunsmithing
Timing a muzzle brake
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