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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Timing a muzzle brake
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<blockquote data-quote="ntsqd" data-source="post: 1646185" data-attributes="member: 93138"><p>For the first brake you'll need to either shim it or carefully shorten it until it will go on almost one full thread further. For that to work there needs to be enough thread inside the brake for that to happen. If shimming it is the desired method and the thread size works then look into the peel washers that used to be used on AR flash-hiders before the aftermarket got lazy and mislabeled a Belleville spring as a "crush washer".</p><p>If shortening it is the desired method and you don't want to take it to a smith then you may be able to do so with a drill press and a LOT of care. Chuck up the brake and spin it against an abrasive sheet on the table. This will be time consuming and laborious, but it can work with care. Do Not bear down hard of you will distort the table and affect your fit.</p><p></p><p>For the second brake you need to know it is the thread fit or the thread depth that is causing the problem. If the former then taking down the OD of the barrel threads may work. If they are badly off from the brake threads then a much more involved approach is needed and I think it's time for a smith or at least a journeyman machinist with access to high tolerance tooling. If the latter then the brake needs to be examined for if the threads can made deeper. If they can not then you're looking at shortening the barrel threads or a spacer-shim.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ntsqd, post: 1646185, member: 93138"] For the first brake you'll need to either shim it or carefully shorten it until it will go on almost one full thread further. For that to work there needs to be enough thread inside the brake for that to happen. If shimming it is the desired method and the thread size works then look into the peel washers that used to be used on AR flash-hiders before the aftermarket got lazy and mislabeled a Belleville spring as a "crush washer". If shortening it is the desired method and you don't want to take it to a smith then you may be able to do so with a drill press and a LOT of care. Chuck up the brake and spin it against an abrasive sheet on the table. This will be time consuming and laborious, but it can work with care. Do Not bear down hard of you will distort the table and affect your fit. For the second brake you need to know it is the thread fit or the thread depth that is causing the problem. If the former then taking down the OD of the barrel threads may work. If they are badly off from the brake threads then a much more involved approach is needed and I think it's time for a smith or at least a journeyman machinist with access to high tolerance tooling. If the latter then the brake needs to be examined for if the threads can made deeper. If they can not then you're looking at shortening the barrel threads or a spacer-shim. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Timing a muzzle brake
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