Tikka T3 7mm Rem Mag Accuracy Problem

[OregonElkSlayer]

I recently purchase a Tikka T3 Lite 7mm Rem Mag and out of the box I was very pleased with it. I took it to the range and my first two shots with the gun were within .55 inches of each other (the rifle was not yet zeroed). After the initial two shots I had a very hard time getting the rifle to group anywhere near the advertised 3 shot MOA rating.

This is my first time shooting a Magnum cartridge, but I purchased a Cabela's lead sled to eliminate recoil from the equation when shooting problems occurred.

Has anyone else had such accuracy problems with their magnum rifles?
I waited about seven minutes between each shot, but the barrel still gets pretty hot after more than four shots.

How many shots and how long between them should I wait to zero or judge accuracy on a magnum rifle?

The rifle came with Tikka's standard rings / base combo (which supports the Nikon Monarch 2.5-10X 42mm Mildot scope), could the rings be moving under the stress of a magnum cartridge?

Any ideas or similar trouble with the cartridge or rifle or technique?

thanks...I need this to work soon for elk season?
AHHH!

 

[britz]

About two years ago I bought the T3 lite stainless synthetic 300 wsm. I broke the barrel in with factory rounds and it grouped ok. Then I switched to handloads and planned on 165 gr bullets. I tried a few powder combinations and 3 different bullet brands. I was getting about an inch at 100 at best. Then I tried the 180 g Accubonds and I was pleased ever since (about .5 moa). Long story short is that you may want to try different bullet weights.

If you think it is the recoil giving you the problem, then I'd suggest a Limbsaver recoil pad - worked wonders for me. Some people have different thresholds for recoil. The 300wsm is about the most I can shoot accurately. I tried a 325wsm and I just can't stop flinching a little.

just remembered that I replaced the cheap scope mounts with Leupald bases and Burris sig z rings to give myself a little more elevation for long shots.

 

[JPRITT]

I would bet $100 that your problem lies with those rings. Tikka makes a great rifle. I have owned two of them and all my shooting buddies have at least one. Everyone I have seen shoots at least MOA. Get rid of those rings and buy the leupolds. Millet also make some but the leupolds are better. Its almost like they put those rings on there as a joke. Besides they look like @ss. The T3s are light so they are inherently heavy on recoil. The lead sled should be fine to get you zeroed but be aware of a shift in point of impact when you shoot it off bags or your shoulder. The gun recoils different when it is in a sled and may print a slightly differnt group.

good luck!

 

[silvertip-co]

My friend in Canada has one in .308 and he's always complaining about it's accuracy. Maybe its the gun design or something.

 

[Pdvdh]

I would bet $100 that your problem lies with those rings. Tikka makes a great rifle. I have owned two of them and all my shooting buddies have at least one. Everyone I have seen shoots at least MOA. Get rid of those rings and buy the leupolds. Millet also make some but the leupolds are better. Its almost like they put those rings on there as a joke.

good luck!

+1 The aluminum Tikka supplied rings are trash.

I've written about the Tikka aluminum factory rings here sometime in the past. The front Tikka supplied ring has a steel pin that protrudes out the bottom of the ring into a hole in the top of the receiver. This steel pin will kick out towards the back side of the front ring under recoil, actually forming a bulge on the back side of the aluminum ring adjacent to the steel pin. I experienced it on both of my 7mm RMs Tikka T3s and others I know have also. That single steel pin is the only secure means by which the factory rings are mechanically held to the receiver. Other than that you only have the friction fit of the two rings on the dove-tail style grooves.

Replace the Tikka rings with bases that screw into all four of the tapped & threaded base screw holes on the top of the receiver. If you want the lightest rings available, go with Talley's lightweight rings. If you're not as worried about weight then there are a number of other ring & base options available that will securely hold the scope to the receiver and eliminate the scope creep you'll see with the factory "Cheetoos" rings.

I don't guarantee you'll shoot 0.5 moa after replacing the scope rings, but I guarantee it's a worthwhile improvement to your outfit.

BTW, my two 7mm Tikka T3's shoot the 160 gr ABs to about 0.6 moa. One of them shoots 168 gr Berger VLDs to about 0.3-0.4 moa. In general, the Tikka T3s are shooters.

 

[rtv900]

I replaced the rings on mine. I went with Warne rings made for the Tikka. They fit on the receiver groves and they use a metal pin like the Tikka ones. They are steel. I am only shooting a 243 so I believe they will be great for what I am doing. Since you are shooting a 7mm you might want to look at getting a different base like a weaver base and mount some nice Warne rings on that base.

 

[Coarsegold1970]

My 300wsm at 100 yards has a small mushroom group with 5 shots. It's a tack driver. I use Talley One piece rings and a Nikon Monarch 5-20x44 BDC. I can zoom in and make the small red dot look like a large plate. Thus helps when trying to aim at the exact center on every shot. If your cross hairs are not on the same exact spot each time time shoot, your groups will very. Good mounts and good optics are key. A 4 power scope with fat crosshairs will obstruct the view too much at a distance.also it's very important to make sure the rifle is level before each shot. Even a good shooting vice can't stop all movement . And with led free ammo, certain loads will not work as well as others. Copper is lighter than led so the bullets are longer and need more spin. Tikka has a 1/11 twist rate. Reloading is the best way to go, but try using lighter grain bullets if mounts and optics don't work. A lot of people will tell you that Savage is crap, yet all mine are tack drivers, same as my as my Tikka. Everyone I know who has a Tikka love them and say its there most accurate rifle.

 

[roninflag]

coarse- this is from 2008??

 

[chucknbach]

Get rid of the rings for sure. I didn't have the the $ to change them on mine. The scope would slide back, fixed it by putting friction paper between scope and rings.

My T3 7Rm doesn't like to be shot more than 3 or 4 rounds back to back. Let the barrel cool between each shot and it'll put them into one hole with the right load.

 

[Blwebster]

Same thing my son experienced with his Tikka T3 Lite in 300wsm. Going to the 180 grain bullets gave him very good accuracy, while 165 and lighter were totally confusing as to why groups were poor.

 

[Bigeclipse]

I recently purchase a Tikka T3 Lite 7mm Rem Mag and out of the box I was very pleased with it. I took it to the range and my first two shots with the gun were within .55 inches of each other (the rifle was not yet zeroed). After the initial two shots I had a very hard time getting the rifle to group anywhere near the advertised 3 shot MOA rating.

This is my first time shooting a Magnum cartridge, but I purchased a Cabela's lead sled to eliminate recoil from the equation when shooting problems occurred.

Has anyone else had such accuracy problems with their magnum rifles?
I waited about seven minutes between each shot, but the barrel still gets pretty hot after more than four shots.

How many shots and how long between them should I wait to zero or judge accuracy on a magnum rifle?

The rifle came with Tikka's standard rings / base combo (which supports the Nikon Monarch 2.5-10X 42mm Mildot scope), could the rings be moving under the stress of a magnum cartridge?

Any ideas or similar trouble with the cartridge or rifle or technique?

thanks...I need this to work soon for elk season?
AHHH!

Just throwing this out there...I had a leased and it ended up running my scope...granted it was a burris fullfield II which is by no means an amazing scope but the scope was fine...then I started using the sled and one day my groups went to hell. My scope no longer held zero. Sent scope back to burris. They replaced it in 2 weeks with a brand new one. The slip in the box said the internal on the other scope wet to messed for then to repair. Needless to say the sled sits in my garage and I now shoot off a front rest with rear bag set up or bipod.

 

[Blwebster]

My son is using a ledsled. Since his Vortex packed it in he has used a Zeiss and no issues with 180 gr ammo. His rifle does not appear to like lighter bullets. I will however, pass your comments on to him. His hunting buddy however has used the Led sled with his Sako Finnlight and unknown scope for several years with no issues.

 

[coyotekiller82]

Could be the rings...replace them. After that, shoot the gun with a front rest and rear bag...get a better recoil pad if you are sensitive to recoil.

Led sleds should never be used for sight in IMO.