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Hunting
Extreme Long Range Hunting & Shooting (ELR)
The importance of being Solid
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<blockquote data-quote="Broz" data-source="post: 645170" data-attributes="member: 7503"><p>Harper, I use Harris 9~13" swivel bipods. I always set them as low as possible. If I need to raise them for field conditions I only raise them as little as possible to keep them stable as I can. </p><p> </p><p>Grey Fox brings up good points. Much of which I have seen too with the exception of the amount of preload on the bipod. I only load it slightly. Just enough to take out slack and feel the location of the recoil pad on my shoulder. I used this " light preload" method while developing my consistant hold with cheekweld. The reason I opted for a light preload is, I felt just enough to remove the slack was the easiest to repeat with every shot consistantly. I wanted everything the same as I could get for each shot. </p><p> </p><p>Also I am going away from the notched legs for the reason Greyfox mentioned. When set at the lowest level they have about 1/8 to 1/4" of spring loaded travel. Depending on the rifle weight this can really induce some verticle stringing and open groups. I have seen it and better groups were obtaned by changing to a friction lock bipod or raising the notched legs one notch to get off the spring. </p><p> </p><p>I don't muscle my rifle. I let it ride the bags. My left arm is always cradled with my left hand on the rear bag. I use slight pressure to adjust for elevation. If I need very much squeeze I have found it much better to raise the bag somehow. I do not want a bag that is ready to drop in height durring recoil. A bag that needs you hand to make it a lot taller will almost always induce verticle spread.</p><p> </p><p>About the difference in the preload that I use and Greyfox uses. My first guess is that he might be shooting a lighter rifle than I do. I do not care for light rifles. My " light gun" is almost 12 lbs with bipod. So lighter rifles might take a firmer hold. With a firmer hold beware of what I call "muscling a rifle" </p><p>Stiff muscles or firm holds are harder to control. To develope this I recommend these exersizes. Get your hold on target solid and steady. Then close your eyes and count to five. Then open your eyes and see if you are still on target. If you are using too much muscle it will be off target. Now do the same thing and dry fire. Did the rifle stay exactly on target? If not it is most likely due to too much muscle forcing the rifle to point of aim and not properly set up bags and preload. </p><p> </p><p>While we are on this lets touch on form a bit. It is said to be straight behind the rifle. I agree with this but I teach it this way. Be as straight behind the rifle as is comfortable. I have broken my back before and it is a fight to get perfectly straight. However I do just fine with a slight angle of my body to the rifle. Remember that the angle can cause the rifle to jump right or left durring recoil. If you are consistantly jumping off target and not spotting shots try to straighten the line you and the rifle make. I can spot most all my hits at any distance. With a consistant shooting discipline and form the rifle will jump up slightly and return to target and you will not have to fight it back to target to see the hits.</p><p> </p><p>Jeff</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Broz, post: 645170, member: 7503"] Harper, I use Harris 9~13" swivel bipods. I always set them as low as possible. If I need to raise them for field conditions I only raise them as little as possible to keep them stable as I can. Grey Fox brings up good points. Much of which I have seen too with the exception of the amount of preload on the bipod. I only load it slightly. Just enough to take out slack and feel the location of the recoil pad on my shoulder. I used this " light preload" method while developing my consistant hold with cheekweld. The reason I opted for a light preload is, I felt just enough to remove the slack was the easiest to repeat with every shot consistantly. I wanted everything the same as I could get for each shot. Also I am going away from the notched legs for the reason Greyfox mentioned. When set at the lowest level they have about 1/8 to 1/4" of spring loaded travel. Depending on the rifle weight this can really induce some verticle stringing and open groups. I have seen it and better groups were obtaned by changing to a friction lock bipod or raising the notched legs one notch to get off the spring. I don't muscle my rifle. I let it ride the bags. My left arm is always cradled with my left hand on the rear bag. I use slight pressure to adjust for elevation. If I need very much squeeze I have found it much better to raise the bag somehow. I do not want a bag that is ready to drop in height durring recoil. A bag that needs you hand to make it a lot taller will almost always induce verticle spread. About the difference in the preload that I use and Greyfox uses. My first guess is that he might be shooting a lighter rifle than I do. I do not care for light rifles. My " light gun" is almost 12 lbs with bipod. So lighter rifles might take a firmer hold. With a firmer hold beware of what I call "muscling a rifle" Stiff muscles or firm holds are harder to control. To develope this I recommend these exersizes. Get your hold on target solid and steady. Then close your eyes and count to five. Then open your eyes and see if you are still on target. If you are using too much muscle it will be off target. Now do the same thing and dry fire. Did the rifle stay exactly on target? If not it is most likely due to too much muscle forcing the rifle to point of aim and not properly set up bags and preload. While we are on this lets touch on form a bit. It is said to be straight behind the rifle. I agree with this but I teach it this way. Be as straight behind the rifle as is comfortable. I have broken my back before and it is a fight to get perfectly straight. However I do just fine with a slight angle of my body to the rifle. Remember that the angle can cause the rifle to jump right or left durring recoil. If you are consistantly jumping off target and not spotting shots try to straighten the line you and the rifle make. I can spot most all my hits at any distance. With a consistant shooting discipline and form the rifle will jump up slightly and return to target and you will not have to fight it back to target to see the hits. Jeff [/QUOTE]
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