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Long Range Hunting & Shooting
The fouled barrel
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<blockquote data-quote="Broz" data-source="post: 687963" data-attributes="member: 7503"><p>Pretty simple Brent. Start with 4 wet patches of BoreTech Eliminator. Eliminator gets copper as well as carbon. This will be evident by the first patches being black then it will change to blue getting copper. After the 4 wets, let soak 10 minutes. Then two more wets, and soak 10 minuts. Then 2 more wets and let soak 10 minutes. Continue this routine untill you can run 4 patches after the soak with no blue on any patches. Do not rush it, it will take a while. If really fouled you can use a good fitting nylon brush and soak it well. I give it 20 strokes then go back to patches. After the barrel is clean, run 5 patches through to dry it. Then swab out the chamber, clean the bolt and lube the bolt contact areas, and it is ready to shoot. I recommend nickel pated jags so you know where the blue is coming from and keeping the muzzle down t let the excess cleaner exit the barrel. Also clean the muzzle brake and crown as you go along so as to not pick up blue there. Always use a well fitting bore guide and a rag or paper towel to keep cleaner from getting into the trigger area.</p><p> </p><p> </p><p>With my back ground in racing and building blown nitro engines I am fully aware of how oil works, especially in a high heat environment. I believe the effects of the oil takes more than one shot to burn out. This could also be dependant on oil type and how long it has been in there. My goal was to develop a cleaning method where I could clean and go hunt with confidence in my first shot from a clean rifle right out of the safe. I am pleased with my method and the products I use. With me it is all about hunting, and one shot is all I hope to use. So this is why I worked to get it.</p><p> </p><p>Jeff</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Broz, post: 687963, member: 7503"] Pretty simple Brent. Start with 4 wet patches of BoreTech Eliminator. Eliminator gets copper as well as carbon. This will be evident by the first patches being black then it will change to blue getting copper. After the 4 wets, let soak 10 minutes. Then two more wets, and soak 10 minuts. Then 2 more wets and let soak 10 minutes. Continue this routine untill you can run 4 patches after the soak with no blue on any patches. Do not rush it, it will take a while. If really fouled you can use a good fitting nylon brush and soak it well. I give it 20 strokes then go back to patches. After the barrel is clean, run 5 patches through to dry it. Then swab out the chamber, clean the bolt and lube the bolt contact areas, and it is ready to shoot. I recommend nickel pated jags so you know where the blue is coming from and keeping the muzzle down t let the excess cleaner exit the barrel. Also clean the muzzle brake and crown as you go along so as to not pick up blue there. Always use a well fitting bore guide and a rag or paper towel to keep cleaner from getting into the trigger area. With my back ground in racing and building blown nitro engines I am fully aware of how oil works, especially in a high heat environment. I believe the effects of the oil takes more than one shot to burn out. This could also be dependant on oil type and how long it has been in there. My goal was to develop a cleaning method where I could clean and go hunt with confidence in my first shot from a clean rifle right out of the safe. I am pleased with my method and the products I use. With me it is all about hunting, and one shot is all I hope to use. So this is why I worked to get it. Jeff [/QUOTE]
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