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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
test results help: UPDATE 300 yard test
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<blockquote data-quote="MNbogboy" data-source="post: 788257" data-attributes="member: 18849"><p><strong>Re: test results help</strong></p><p></p><p>I have found that the F-1 is OK (I have had two of them) but in order to get consistent results you have to control the sunlight that it sees....The two sunscreens that come with them are next to worthless...My first one had cardboard ones...In those days I either shot on cloudy days or before the sun came over the trees....With my newer one I first built a shade out of pink styrofoam that was about 2' x 3'.....worked ok but when the suns rays could get a peak at the bullets they often reflected to create enough difference in the comparator circuits that start and stop the counter....Result wild readings(starting or stopping prematurely)....Also the errors caused by 3 fluctuations vs the two that it needs.... </p><p> </p><p>Early this winter I finally built the "box" that I got the idea from by somebody on this forum (I think)....The "box" is framed on the bottom with a standard 2x6 I think about 34 or 36 inches long above that is a compartment that just fits the chrony...It is closed at the target end....has two 1-1/2 or 2" diameter holes above the sensor ports....Then abve that is the bullet path compartment...About 14" tall, 5-1/2" wide andthe 34 or 36" long the rest of it is...The sidewalls are 1/4 plywood and the top is a std 1x6 x again the 32 or 34"....The bullet path compartment is open at both ends...The top also has two 2 1/2" holes directly over the chrony compartment holes.....I had two battery operated under the cabinet LED kitchen lights to use when on dark cloudy overcast late in the day shoots...The jury is still out on these because I haven't had enough opportunity to fully test them yet but the one time had good results....</p><p> </p><p>The "box" so far has proven to work 95% of the time with few if any errors anymore....Bullet path alignment in darker conditions has been a little bit of a problem and sunlight towards sundown still causes unreliable results...(my target faces west) Shooting through the "box" has never been a problem...It is located about 12 feet in front of my bench on a homemade adjustable stand.....</p><p> </p><p>I would guess that when yours worked it was on a cloudy/overcast day...The sunlight today would have given mine fits if I didn't have the "box"....The velocities I recorded today were definitely very close to what I have recorded in the past with that load and new brass....The only difference was the bullet lot and even though drastic changes are seen in the bullet specification the relative velocity and grouping appeared to be similar....</p><p> </p><p>I have never owned a micrometer die (wish I had one more than once)...If the .308 bergers are anything like these .264 hunting VLDs both the 130s and 140s you will find up to and sometimes .015 differnces in bullet length and COALs.....However the base to ogive measuremnt is very consistent as well as nose profile....the excess length is carried towards the tip...A single setting with most dies will provide the oal that you are looking for regardless of the COAL....I suggest to setting your die for your longest ones first...Then depending on the thread size of your seater stem (mine are 28 tpi which equates to approx .036 per turn (ie: 1/4 turn in will shorten your oal by approx .009)..This should get you close if you then measure to your</p><p>land setting you should be close.....If you are measuring COAL on the bergers you will have a spread equal to the bullet lengths...If you sort all your bullets by length your average COAL difference will again approximate the bullet average length...You probably already know that you should not adjust the COALs on the Bergers (i have made that mistake)....For my hunting uses I find the Bergers still shoot great when mixing the bullet lengths...always under MOA and often under .5 and sometimes one ragged hole...But my bag manners don't let me do that very often...LOL</p><p> </p><p>Good shooting,</p><p>Randy</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MNbogboy, post: 788257, member: 18849"] [b]Re: test results help[/b] I have found that the F-1 is OK (I have had two of them) but in order to get consistent results you have to control the sunlight that it sees....The two sunscreens that come with them are next to worthless...My first one had cardboard ones...In those days I either shot on cloudy days or before the sun came over the trees....With my newer one I first built a shade out of pink styrofoam that was about 2' x 3'.....worked ok but when the suns rays could get a peak at the bullets they often reflected to create enough difference in the comparator circuits that start and stop the counter....Result wild readings(starting or stopping prematurely)....Also the errors caused by 3 fluctuations vs the two that it needs.... Early this winter I finally built the "box" that I got the idea from by somebody on this forum (I think)....The "box" is framed on the bottom with a standard 2x6 I think about 34 or 36 inches long above that is a compartment that just fits the chrony...It is closed at the target end....has two 1-1/2 or 2" diameter holes above the sensor ports....Then abve that is the bullet path compartment...About 14" tall, 5-1/2" wide andthe 34 or 36" long the rest of it is...The sidewalls are 1/4 plywood and the top is a std 1x6 x again the 32 or 34"....The bullet path compartment is open at both ends...The top also has two 2 1/2" holes directly over the chrony compartment holes.....I had two battery operated under the cabinet LED kitchen lights to use when on dark cloudy overcast late in the day shoots...The jury is still out on these because I haven't had enough opportunity to fully test them yet but the one time had good results.... The "box" so far has proven to work 95% of the time with few if any errors anymore....Bullet path alignment in darker conditions has been a little bit of a problem and sunlight towards sundown still causes unreliable results...(my target faces west) Shooting through the "box" has never been a problem...It is located about 12 feet in front of my bench on a homemade adjustable stand..... I would guess that when yours worked it was on a cloudy/overcast day...The sunlight today would have given mine fits if I didn't have the "box"....The velocities I recorded today were definitely very close to what I have recorded in the past with that load and new brass....The only difference was the bullet lot and even though drastic changes are seen in the bullet specification the relative velocity and grouping appeared to be similar.... I have never owned a micrometer die (wish I had one more than once)...If the .308 bergers are anything like these .264 hunting VLDs both the 130s and 140s you will find up to and sometimes .015 differnces in bullet length and COALs.....However the base to ogive measuremnt is very consistent as well as nose profile....the excess length is carried towards the tip...A single setting with most dies will provide the oal that you are looking for regardless of the COAL....I suggest to setting your die for your longest ones first...Then depending on the thread size of your seater stem (mine are 28 tpi which equates to approx .036 per turn (ie: 1/4 turn in will shorten your oal by approx .009)..This should get you close if you then measure to your land setting you should be close.....If you are measuring COAL on the bergers you will have a spread equal to the bullet lengths...If you sort all your bullets by length your average COAL difference will again approximate the bullet average length...You probably already know that you should not adjust the COALs on the Bergers (i have made that mistake)....For my hunting uses I find the Bergers still shoot great when mixing the bullet lengths...always under MOA and often under .5 and sometimes one ragged hole...But my bag manners don't let me do that very often...LOL Good shooting, Randy [/QUOTE]
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