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<blockquote data-quote="jon.henry755" data-source="post: 557921" data-attributes="member: 29115"><p>All,</p><p>Paper Tuning is a very simple process. The distance from you to the paper needs to be approximately 12 to 15 yards. This is to allow the arrow a chance to launch and begin to stabilize its flight coming off the bow or crossbow. </p><p></p><p>A target is only used as a backstop to prevent loss of an arrow. Any good backstop would do, but typically having the backstop within a yard or two behind your paper tuner makes the most sense. </p><p></p><p>It makes no difference weather you are standing, sitting, bench rested or hanging upside down as long as you can hold steady enough to know where you are aiming each time you pull the trigger. Personally, most people use either a bench rested position or a stand like a bi-pod to do this exercise. </p><p></p><p>During the paper tuning exercise always use only one arrow for every shot. This eliminates the possibility of spine problems or spine to nock alignment problems. If you only have one arrow with you, you can't grab the wrong one by mistake and shoot it. Some of the problems I'm reading in this thread sound like the typical old problem of nock to arrow spine mis-alignment problems. I'll be happy to address how to fix this, but I believe Okiebowie is ever bit as qualified as I am on this subject, so he can explain how to fix it, if in fact this is what's causing the bullet hole problem when paper tuning. </p><p></p><p>Re-test at 15 yards only using one arrow and please make sure you paper is fresh and tight. Once your paper has 4 or 5 holes in it, you must change the paper because you will have to much slack in the paper for it to provide an accurate reading. Once you've obtained a perfect bullet hole stop the paper tuning exercise because your no longer doing anything of any value. </p><p></p><p>paper Tuning is a cheap and dirty way of achieving a center alignment between your nocking point and your arrow rest. It doesn't tell you that they are both properly centered down the middle of your crossbows lower unit and it doesn't tell you that your scope is properly centered to this shaft alignment. It only tells you that the nocking point and center of your arrow rest are in line with one another. Once finished there is much more to do if you want to align the other items I just mentioned. </p><p></p><p>Regards,</p><p></p><p>Jon</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jon.henry755, post: 557921, member: 29115"] All, Paper Tuning is a very simple process. The distance from you to the paper needs to be approximately 12 to 15 yards. This is to allow the arrow a chance to launch and begin to stabilize its flight coming off the bow or crossbow. A target is only used as a backstop to prevent loss of an arrow. Any good backstop would do, but typically having the backstop within a yard or two behind your paper tuner makes the most sense. It makes no difference weather you are standing, sitting, bench rested or hanging upside down as long as you can hold steady enough to know where you are aiming each time you pull the trigger. Personally, most people use either a bench rested position or a stand like a bi-pod to do this exercise. During the paper tuning exercise always use only one arrow for every shot. This eliminates the possibility of spine problems or spine to nock alignment problems. If you only have one arrow with you, you can't grab the wrong one by mistake and shoot it. Some of the problems I'm reading in this thread sound like the typical old problem of nock to arrow spine mis-alignment problems. I'll be happy to address how to fix this, but I believe Okiebowie is ever bit as qualified as I am on this subject, so he can explain how to fix it, if in fact this is what's causing the bullet hole problem when paper tuning. Re-test at 15 yards only using one arrow and please make sure you paper is fresh and tight. Once your paper has 4 or 5 holes in it, you must change the paper because you will have to much slack in the paper for it to provide an accurate reading. Once you've obtained a perfect bullet hole stop the paper tuning exercise because your no longer doing anything of any value. paper Tuning is a cheap and dirty way of achieving a center alignment between your nocking point and your arrow rest. It doesn't tell you that they are both properly centered down the middle of your crossbows lower unit and it doesn't tell you that your scope is properly centered to this shaft alignment. It only tells you that the nocking point and center of your arrow rest are in line with one another. Once finished there is much more to do if you want to align the other items I just mentioned. Regards, Jon [/QUOTE]
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