TAC 15/15i Basic Unpublished Information
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Super 91
Well-Known Member
Jon has this stuff pegged, that is for sure. He has more knowledge in his pinky finger than I have in my whole noggin!
Try bare shaft tuning through paper to see if are shooting bullet holes. If not, adjust the rest to get the bow into perfect tune. Once you are shooting perfect bullet holes, then you will have to shoot each shaft to see its point of impact. Sort your shafts according the flight. This is assuming you do not have a spine tester.
I'm having pretty good luck with the glue from Firenock. It is 100% acetone solvable which is very nice. It flows very easily and you don't have to use but a very small amount to get awesome adhesion. Might be worth a try.
Try bare shaft tuning through paper to see if are shooting bullet holes. If not, adjust the rest to get the bow into perfect tune. Once you are shooting perfect bullet holes, then you will have to shoot each shaft to see its point of impact. Sort your shafts according the flight. This is assuming you do not have a spine tester.
I'm having pretty good luck with the glue from Firenock. It is 100% acetone solvable which is very nice. It flows very easily and you don't have to use but a very small amount to get awesome adhesion. Might be worth a try.
Konrad
Well-Known Member
Third Axis Leveling
There is another leveling issue that rears its ugly head comes when shooting up or downhill at extended ranges. The archery industry refers to this as leveling in the third axis.
If the level assembly is not perfectly perpendicular to the arrow, when holding the bow at an angle the bubble will drift either up or down in the glass. The shooter then compensates by adding cant to the bow and succeeds in adding windage problems to the point of impact.
If you are using a scope with a "cross hair" reticle a plumb bob can be hung from a tree limb and sighted through the scope while pointing the bow upward. With the string aligned to the vertical "hair" of the reticle the bubble is observed. If the bubble is not centered, the third axis needs adjustment.
There is another leveling issue that rears its ugly head comes when shooting up or downhill at extended ranges. The archery industry refers to this as leveling in the third axis.
If the level assembly is not perfectly perpendicular to the arrow, when holding the bow at an angle the bubble will drift either up or down in the glass. The shooter then compensates by adding cant to the bow and succeeds in adding windage problems to the point of impact.
If you are using a scope with a "cross hair" reticle a plumb bob can be hung from a tree limb and sighted through the scope while pointing the bow upward. With the string aligned to the vertical "hair" of the reticle the bubble is observed. If the bubble is not centered, the third axis needs adjustment.
jon.henry755
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2010
- Messages
- 391
Hi Everyone,
As Super 91 has pointed out already, getting good vane adhesion is going to be difficult and take some extra time and work to over come. Please allow me to attempt a simple explanation as to why this is happening. Some people have stated that PSE has come back with a statement that the manufacture is not using a good glue. This is only partially true.
Bob (Super 91) and I are both aware that a few years ago PSE bought out a very large arrow manufacturer named Carbon Force. Carbon Force is now a division of PSE and the producer of the TAC Arrows.
This said, PSE did not exactly lie, they just didn't explain the entire story.
Next, The TAC arrow shafts are being created from a brand new type of carbon known as Carbon Filament. Carbon Filament has some very positive features that make it exceptionally strong, very straight and having no specific glue spot that typically creates a stiff line which we know as the arrows spine.
These new properties make spine identification much more difficult than in the past, but creates a superior arrow shaft to those produced in the past.
All this means that the manufacturer is now attempting to bond two materials together that have not been bonded previously. This is unique plastic like materials that make up the composition of the Duravanes and that of the filament woven carbon fiber of the PSE TAC15 arrow shafts.
Please keep in mind that when an arrow manufacture buys materials to produce arrows, they are buying in huge bulk quantity. This includes glue as well as the other components, so it takes a while before they can replace these things and replace them with others.
In simplest terms, we all want our arrows to work well and hold up, but in archery arrow maintenance seems to be a way of life and it's probably a good idea to get a fletching jig to replace lost or torn vanes. Super 91 has already stated that he's been having good luck with Dorn's glue and I am certain we will need some time and everybody's help to test out some different glues until we find what works the best over a several month span of time.
Please just make sure that before you re-bond any vanes onto these shafts that you clean down the shafts very well with denatured alcohol on a cloth. A little goes a long way, so all you need do is wet the cloth and wipe several shafts down by wrapping the wet cloth around the shafts and sliding it back and forth a couple times. Let the shaft dry standing up for 10 - 15 minutes and you are ready to place your arrows in the fletching jig and start gluing your vanes back on.
Nothing says that you need to use an instant drying glue. You can always use slower setting glues like "Fletch Tite Cement" or "Duco Cement", then there's "5 Minute Epoxy" and to many others to even begin to mention here.
If all else fails, you may want to even try using natural feathers instead of vanes. Natural feathers weigh 4x less than vanes, are more wind resistant, but will require more care since they are not as tough. Each time you change the materials being bonded together, you are likely to encounter different results.
Once again, let's give credit where it's due; Super 91 does more experimenting with many of these variable than the rest of us put together, so if you're not inclined to do any experimenting yourself, I would recommend following his lead on what to use, since he has documented more than anybody else I'm aware of.
Regards,
Jon
As Super 91 has pointed out already, getting good vane adhesion is going to be difficult and take some extra time and work to over come. Please allow me to attempt a simple explanation as to why this is happening. Some people have stated that PSE has come back with a statement that the manufacture is not using a good glue. This is only partially true.
Bob (Super 91) and I are both aware that a few years ago PSE bought out a very large arrow manufacturer named Carbon Force. Carbon Force is now a division of PSE and the producer of the TAC Arrows.
This said, PSE did not exactly lie, they just didn't explain the entire story.
Next, The TAC arrow shafts are being created from a brand new type of carbon known as Carbon Filament. Carbon Filament has some very positive features that make it exceptionally strong, very straight and having no specific glue spot that typically creates a stiff line which we know as the arrows spine.
These new properties make spine identification much more difficult than in the past, but creates a superior arrow shaft to those produced in the past.
All this means that the manufacturer is now attempting to bond two materials together that have not been bonded previously. This is unique plastic like materials that make up the composition of the Duravanes and that of the filament woven carbon fiber of the PSE TAC15 arrow shafts.
Please keep in mind that when an arrow manufacture buys materials to produce arrows, they are buying in huge bulk quantity. This includes glue as well as the other components, so it takes a while before they can replace these things and replace them with others.
In simplest terms, we all want our arrows to work well and hold up, but in archery arrow maintenance seems to be a way of life and it's probably a good idea to get a fletching jig to replace lost or torn vanes. Super 91 has already stated that he's been having good luck with Dorn's glue and I am certain we will need some time and everybody's help to test out some different glues until we find what works the best over a several month span of time.
Please just make sure that before you re-bond any vanes onto these shafts that you clean down the shafts very well with denatured alcohol on a cloth. A little goes a long way, so all you need do is wet the cloth and wipe several shafts down by wrapping the wet cloth around the shafts and sliding it back and forth a couple times. Let the shaft dry standing up for 10 - 15 minutes and you are ready to place your arrows in the fletching jig and start gluing your vanes back on.
Nothing says that you need to use an instant drying glue. You can always use slower setting glues like "Fletch Tite Cement" or "Duco Cement", then there's "5 Minute Epoxy" and to many others to even begin to mention here.
If all else fails, you may want to even try using natural feathers instead of vanes. Natural feathers weigh 4x less than vanes, are more wind resistant, but will require more care since they are not as tough. Each time you change the materials being bonded together, you are likely to encounter different results.
Once again, let's give credit where it's due; Super 91 does more experimenting with many of these variable than the rest of us put together, so if you're not inclined to do any experimenting yourself, I would recommend following his lead on what to use, since he has documented more than anybody else I'm aware of.
Regards,
Jon
jon.henry755
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2010
- Messages
- 391
Hi Konrad,
Excellent point and thanks for taking the time to provide a really good explanation on Third Axis and the steps that can be used to adjust it.
This is an extremely important tuning element that should never be overlooked by any archer or shooter.
Keep the good stuff coming, we need all we can get!!!!!!!!
Regards,
Jon
Excellent point and thanks for taking the time to provide a really good explanation on Third Axis and the steps that can be used to adjust it.
This is an extremely important tuning element that should never be overlooked by any archer or shooter.
Keep the good stuff coming, we need all we can get!!!!!!!!
Regards,
Jon
Konrad
Well-Known Member
Re: TAC 15/15i Broadhead Accuracy Tips
When firing a crossbow of any type, the arrow will oscillate from right-to-left (horizontally) as it exits the bow.
Upon firing, the arrow does not begin rotation for some 5 to 10 feet and during which time (remember the oscillation is still going on), the blades of your broadhead will "catch" the air and direct the front of the shaft in one direction or another.
Then the fletching begins rotation and shaft stabilization but the shaft is already flying in the wrong direction. It may only be a fraction of a degree but enough to cause a change in point of impact as compared with field points. Field points do not tend to catch air.
The idea is to minimize blade air deflection and give the fletching a chance to provide stabilization.
The primary blades of your broadhead should be set so they are parallel with the ground.
If you are using a four blade head with all blades of equal dimensions, orient one set vertical and one set horizontally. If using a three blade head, place one blade to the right or the left. Regardless all broadhead blades should set the same.
All of this discussion also points to the importance of the arrow being pushed straight up the center during the shot (tuning/center shot).
Also remember that the center of the riser is not necessarily where the bow is applying the most force.
Many times experimentation is the only way to find this true center of pressure (i.e. paper tuning).
When firing a crossbow of any type, the arrow will oscillate from right-to-left (horizontally) as it exits the bow.
Upon firing, the arrow does not begin rotation for some 5 to 10 feet and during which time (remember the oscillation is still going on), the blades of your broadhead will "catch" the air and direct the front of the shaft in one direction or another.
Then the fletching begins rotation and shaft stabilization but the shaft is already flying in the wrong direction. It may only be a fraction of a degree but enough to cause a change in point of impact as compared with field points. Field points do not tend to catch air.
The idea is to minimize blade air deflection and give the fletching a chance to provide stabilization.
The primary blades of your broadhead should be set so they are parallel with the ground.
If you are using a four blade head with all blades of equal dimensions, orient one set vertical and one set horizontally. If using a three blade head, place one blade to the right or the left. Regardless all broadhead blades should set the same.
All of this discussion also points to the importance of the arrow being pushed straight up the center during the shot (tuning/center shot).
Also remember that the center of the riser is not necessarily where the bow is applying the most force.
Many times experimentation is the only way to find this true center of pressure (i.e. paper tuning).
Super 91
Well-Known Member
What makes you say that no matter what bow the arrow flexes horizontally? Isn't that a matter of which way the spine is oriented? Especially with a rail less design like the TAC.
And if using super short heads such as the Phat head, the idea is that there is not enough blade surface area to "catch" the air and start deflection. That is why they can say they fly just like field points. They don't, but they get much closer than conventional heads.
Getting back to the flexing. If you orient the spine to the same position, then each shot the arrow should behave much like the shaft before it. You can get each shaft to flex whichever way you orient the spine.
And if using super short heads such as the Phat head, the idea is that there is not enough blade surface area to "catch" the air and start deflection. That is why they can say they fly just like field points. They don't, but they get much closer than conventional heads.
Getting back to the flexing. If you orient the spine to the same position, then each shot the arrow should behave much like the shaft before it. You can get each shaft to flex whichever way you orient the spine.
Konrad
Well-Known Member
Ultimately, the rear of the arrow is trying to accelerate before the energy is transferred to the front of the arrow. Assuming the cams on this device are pushing in the same fashion as a compound bow and the tiller of the limbs is equal and the nock is placed directly in the center of pressure generated by the string/cams, I would expect the shaft to flex in line with the string. As few things engineered by man are perfect, the timing of the roll over of the cams would tend to produce a horizontal energy wave.
Konrad
Well-Known Member
On the broadhead question: The idea is to get all the blades on each of your arrows catching air the same way every time they are launched…for consistency/accuracy.
Konrad
Well-Known Member
Re: TAC 15/15i Another Accuracy/Maintenance Tip
Proper cleaning of either alloy or carbon composite shafts is mandatory prior to fletching with plastic vanes or natural feathers. White Ivory soap and hot water scrubbed onto the shaft with a new sponge and then wiping with a clean paper towel in one direction, one time and then air drying for ten minutes will produce a clean, oil-free shaft ready for the gluing process.
A small drop fletching glue applied to the leading end of the base of the vane is standard procedure after the vane has been glued to the shaft. I set a kitchen timer for ten minutes setting time for each vane glued while in the clamp. Twelve hours at 72 degrees F curing time will produce a bond that only a razor blade will remove. Cooler room temperatures will require a longer curing duration.
Depending on the vane selected, some bases of the vanes are treated with a primer and as such have a finite shelf life. I have found Bohnig's Blazer vanes have been both durable and extremely accurate in my archery endeavors. I have an e-mail in at Bohnig as we speak relating the Blazer to the TAC 15and will report when it is answered. They also stabilize my largish fixed blade broadheads as well as my field points.
Bohnig's FletchTite Platinum glue has produced excellent results on all shaft materials I have used.
I would also suggest the Bitzenburger fletching clamp tool as there is none finer on the market…the benchmark against which all others are judged.
Remember, after cleaning, touching the shaft or the vane's base is verboten.
Numbering shafts is critical to sorting. Verifying both ends of the shaft are square is critical as well. Try placing your arrows point down on a hard surface and spinning them.
Wobbling equals poor flight. If you can see it, it will make a difference, particularly at extended range.
Proper cleaning of either alloy or carbon composite shafts is mandatory prior to fletching with plastic vanes or natural feathers. White Ivory soap and hot water scrubbed onto the shaft with a new sponge and then wiping with a clean paper towel in one direction, one time and then air drying for ten minutes will produce a clean, oil-free shaft ready for the gluing process.
A small drop fletching glue applied to the leading end of the base of the vane is standard procedure after the vane has been glued to the shaft. I set a kitchen timer for ten minutes setting time for each vane glued while in the clamp. Twelve hours at 72 degrees F curing time will produce a bond that only a razor blade will remove. Cooler room temperatures will require a longer curing duration.
Depending on the vane selected, some bases of the vanes are treated with a primer and as such have a finite shelf life. I have found Bohnig's Blazer vanes have been both durable and extremely accurate in my archery endeavors. I have an e-mail in at Bohnig as we speak relating the Blazer to the TAC 15and will report when it is answered. They also stabilize my largish fixed blade broadheads as well as my field points.
Bohnig's FletchTite Platinum glue has produced excellent results on all shaft materials I have used.
I would also suggest the Bitzenburger fletching clamp tool as there is none finer on the market…the benchmark against which all others are judged.
Remember, after cleaning, touching the shaft or the vane's base is verboten.
Numbering shafts is critical to sorting. Verifying both ends of the shaft are square is critical as well. Try placing your arrows point down on a hard surface and spinning them.
Wobbling equals poor flight. If you can see it, it will make a difference, particularly at extended range.
jon.henry755
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2010
- Messages
- 391
Hi Konrad,
Great input and a very needed discussion point! One of our members had recently noted in another thread that he couldn't get his broadheads and arrows to fly with any consistency at all.
After reading his thread I assumed it was due to the fact that the arrow shafts for the TAC15's are not spine measured and indexed by the manufacturer, nocks are not aligned to the spine either, so this would likely cause a high level of flight deviation due to the constantly varying spine deflections with each shot.
The typical process used in archery is to tune broadheads to your shafts by setting each broadhead to the exact same position on each shaft so they are all aligned to the same location in relation to the spine of the arrow. This provides a consistency of flight on each arrow.
The member who wrote the thread I'm referring to was suggesting that instead of tuning the broadheads to the shaft, for these arrows he's been doing exactly the reverse and tuning the shafts to the broadheads. He does this by gradually rotating each broadhead until he finds which position will steer the arrow to hit in the same spot as the others at longer distances (60 yards). Not all arrows can be redirected to hit exactly where the ones shot earlier are hitting. In those cases he removes this arrow from his final group.
It's a sorting out and tuning process, but in the end it leaves him with arrows that are good for very tight groups at longer range shots.
The side to side oscillation that you refer to is better known as the Archers Paradox. I'm not sure if the oscillation on these arrows follows that typically seen on other shafts for a number of reasons.
We have been testing and searching for ways to improve the accuracy at these distances and we now understand a good bit about the information I've outlined above. Don't get me wrong, these crossbows are very accurate compared to others, but we are looking for 3" groups at 100 yards and that's entirely possible if we can find a way to make each shaft fly the same as the one before it. It's already possible if you shoot the same arrow each time, but as soon as you change to a different shaft, you lose the accuracy.
I think many members would stand to gain a great deal if you've been able to overcome any of these issues and can assist us with any ideas on how resolving these problems can best be accomplished?
It's clear that you have a great knowledge base on crossbow properties and performance, so it's great having you on the team.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us on this thread. Please keep it coming, since there's so much to still learn and discover.
Jon
Great input and a very needed discussion point! One of our members had recently noted in another thread that he couldn't get his broadheads and arrows to fly with any consistency at all.
After reading his thread I assumed it was due to the fact that the arrow shafts for the TAC15's are not spine measured and indexed by the manufacturer, nocks are not aligned to the spine either, so this would likely cause a high level of flight deviation due to the constantly varying spine deflections with each shot.
The typical process used in archery is to tune broadheads to your shafts by setting each broadhead to the exact same position on each shaft so they are all aligned to the same location in relation to the spine of the arrow. This provides a consistency of flight on each arrow.
The member who wrote the thread I'm referring to was suggesting that instead of tuning the broadheads to the shaft, for these arrows he's been doing exactly the reverse and tuning the shafts to the broadheads. He does this by gradually rotating each broadhead until he finds which position will steer the arrow to hit in the same spot as the others at longer distances (60 yards). Not all arrows can be redirected to hit exactly where the ones shot earlier are hitting. In those cases he removes this arrow from his final group.
It's a sorting out and tuning process, but in the end it leaves him with arrows that are good for very tight groups at longer range shots.
The side to side oscillation that you refer to is better known as the Archers Paradox. I'm not sure if the oscillation on these arrows follows that typically seen on other shafts for a number of reasons.
- These arrows are much longer than any other crossbow bolts.
- The new type of Carbon Filament Woven Fibers used in their construction have entirely different spine and flex points than any arrow that's come before these and are not similar in design to any other arrow ever made.
- The Spine Deflection readings and characteristics are unique and are unpublished, which is why PSE had special vane configurations created to provide optimal flight performance.
- All flight testing and data was developed for the 85 gram field points. Broadheads were tested later, but were not the basis for the shaft development matrix.
We have been testing and searching for ways to improve the accuracy at these distances and we now understand a good bit about the information I've outlined above. Don't get me wrong, these crossbows are very accurate compared to others, but we are looking for 3" groups at 100 yards and that's entirely possible if we can find a way to make each shaft fly the same as the one before it. It's already possible if you shoot the same arrow each time, but as soon as you change to a different shaft, you lose the accuracy.
I think many members would stand to gain a great deal if you've been able to overcome any of these issues and can assist us with any ideas on how resolving these problems can best be accomplished?
It's clear that you have a great knowledge base on crossbow properties and performance, so it's great having you on the team.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us on this thread. Please keep it coming, since there's so much to still learn and discover.
Jon
Konrad
Well-Known Member
Modern techniques in carbon composite and alloy construction of archery shafts have virtually eliminated the wooden shaft concept of a spine (a line of less deflection extending the length of the shaft). Alloy shafts have very consistent deflection rates all around the shaft diameter. Newer carbon composite construction techniques have also eliminated this issue. Early carbon composite shafts were actually "wrapped" for want of a better term and did present the tester with a specific area on the shaft with less deflection than in other areas around the shaft (where the material actually over lapped). This construction method also presented weight distribution issues of rotational balance and has been all but outdated over the last few years.
I would also presume all testing and development was done using the 85 grain point for one of two reasons:
A: In order to achieve correct forward of center (FOC) balance point.
B: It was technically impossible to develop a shaft stiff enough to withstand the forces applied by this system using a heavier point.
C: Or it was a combination of both situations…
Modern compound archer's arrows usually hover around the 29 to 30 inch over all length and as such require a heavier point to achieve the 10 to 15% FOC. As a rule of thumb, the lighter the point, the less spine is required for proper flight. Typically, a high to moderate FOC will also produce better flight characteristics assuming the actual spine of the shaft is up to the task. Extreme FOC is seen as over 19% FOC. The use of a too heavy point causes erratic flight when using a weakly spine shaft.
A broadhead I would seriously consider would be the Muzzy Phantom MX 85 grain two blade.
http://www.shopatron.com/products/productdetail/Phantom%20MX%202%20Blade%2085%20Grain/part_number=4185-MX/182.0.1.1.1928.7266.0.0.0?pp=8&
Please, don't let me confuse you as I do not actually own one of the TAC15 bows. I am a serious compound archer and life long chucker of projectiles various. The subject intrigued me since I receive an offer to enter the arrow give away. I am not planning on the purchase of a TAC any time soon (and said as much in my first reply to the offer) but know that the information I have gleaned over the decades will apply to this project. It was only after reading some of the posts that I decided to contribute.
My standard practice range is only 50 yards.
jon.henry755
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2010
- Messages
- 391
Your assessment of the reasons for the 85 gram point is "C". It was both of the reasons stated.
PSE sent the data they captured in their test labs on the force produced by the bow and asked Carbon Force to develop a shaft they could use on these xbows. The heavier the head you go to, the more flight anomalies become visible.
This would indicate as you stated that the spine compression being produced with anything over 100 grams is likely pushing the limits of what these arrows can handle. The engineers at PSE have recommended the 100 gram Steel Force, Phat Head Broadhead as one of the better performing heads they tested. I believe a lighter head in the 85 gram weight would probably provide better arrow flight if the head can be prevented from planing or steering improperly.
Carbon shafts seem to have a number of consistency problems that can vary from nonuniform consistency in shaft wall thicknesses to not being perfectly symetrical over the shafts length. Whilst I agree that the latest generation of carbon shafts are reported to have overcome some of these weaknesses, they are still not flying with consistent grouping capabilities.
Each shaft flies with unbelievable repeat precision and almost same hole accuracy at 60 yards. When shooting a group of shafts the performance of the groups opens up by as much as 5 or 6 inches.
In my experience, this is not a fletching attribute, it's typically a spine (Nock Indexing) or shaft deflection attribute.
Can you shed any additional light on this or do you have a different opinion on the likely cause?
Regards,
Jon
PSE sent the data they captured in their test labs on the force produced by the bow and asked Carbon Force to develop a shaft they could use on these xbows. The heavier the head you go to, the more flight anomalies become visible.
This would indicate as you stated that the spine compression being produced with anything over 100 grams is likely pushing the limits of what these arrows can handle. The engineers at PSE have recommended the 100 gram Steel Force, Phat Head Broadhead as one of the better performing heads they tested. I believe a lighter head in the 85 gram weight would probably provide better arrow flight if the head can be prevented from planing or steering improperly.
Carbon shafts seem to have a number of consistency problems that can vary from nonuniform consistency in shaft wall thicknesses to not being perfectly symetrical over the shafts length. Whilst I agree that the latest generation of carbon shafts are reported to have overcome some of these weaknesses, they are still not flying with consistent grouping capabilities.
Each shaft flies with unbelievable repeat precision and almost same hole accuracy at 60 yards. When shooting a group of shafts the performance of the groups opens up by as much as 5 or 6 inches.
In my experience, this is not a fletching attribute, it's typically a spine (Nock Indexing) or shaft deflection attribute.
Can you shed any additional light on this or do you have a different opinion on the likely cause?
Regards,
Jon
Konrad
Well-Known Member
There are a number of issues that can contribute to "large" groups as compared with shooting a single projectile.
1: Not all shaft cutting equipment does a good job (or even a fair job) of making a square cut. Poorly cut shafts on either end results in forces not applied equally across the nock end of the shaft surface.
There are two good devices for addressing the task.
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=squaring+tool&osCsid=vr4po5mhjvagagebhnkuja8hi1
A point end cut will not allow the insert to properly seat against its rear flange. In addition, removal of material from one side of the wall and not the other introduces rotational mass instabilities that can degrade accuracy potential.
2: Improper installation of inserts (specifically, poor/uneven distribution of the adhesive) also introduces rotational imbalances related to item #1. Sadly, most shops use an epoxy compound when gluing inserts into shafts and the heat required for removal damages the epoxy binders used in most carbon composite constructed shafts. I would be tempted to cut the entire insert off and start from scratch.
An advantage to this is if you use a slow setting compound (highly suggested); you can orient all of your broadheads in the same fashion before the glue takes a set. Should you decide to do this, do not try to remove the broadhead until the complete cure time is elapsed. Many folks will start with a bare shaft, install the insert, install the broadhead and then spin the shaft point down on a hard surface and observe for a wobble. If there is perceived wobble, rotate the insert 90 degrees and spin again. When you find a minimum wobble, stop.
Then apply fletching.
3: PSE states their shafts have a standard deviational run out of plus or minus .003 inches. Read that .006 total indicated run out (TIR). No professional FITA archer would enter any contest with new shaft inconsistencies of this magnitude. FITA or Olympic competitions range out to 98 yards.
Bow hunters often believe .003 inches is pretty good; however, most modern bowhunters rarely shoot at game beyond 50 yards…and that is considered extreme distance by most.
4: Large shaft to shaft completed arrow weight deviations will not make you happy either.
The basic problem may be an ammunition one at its root.
I hope this helps,
Konrad
PS
Questions:
What is the clearance between the fletching and buss cables?
Is there actually enough room to experiment with rotating the nock without hitting the cables?
1: Not all shaft cutting equipment does a good job (or even a fair job) of making a square cut. Poorly cut shafts on either end results in forces not applied equally across the nock end of the shaft surface.
There are two good devices for addressing the task.
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=squaring+tool&osCsid=vr4po5mhjvagagebhnkuja8hi1
A point end cut will not allow the insert to properly seat against its rear flange. In addition, removal of material from one side of the wall and not the other introduces rotational mass instabilities that can degrade accuracy potential.
2: Improper installation of inserts (specifically, poor/uneven distribution of the adhesive) also introduces rotational imbalances related to item #1. Sadly, most shops use an epoxy compound when gluing inserts into shafts and the heat required for removal damages the epoxy binders used in most carbon composite constructed shafts. I would be tempted to cut the entire insert off and start from scratch.
An advantage to this is if you use a slow setting compound (highly suggested); you can orient all of your broadheads in the same fashion before the glue takes a set. Should you decide to do this, do not try to remove the broadhead until the complete cure time is elapsed. Many folks will start with a bare shaft, install the insert, install the broadhead and then spin the shaft point down on a hard surface and observe for a wobble. If there is perceived wobble, rotate the insert 90 degrees and spin again. When you find a minimum wobble, stop.
Then apply fletching.
3: PSE states their shafts have a standard deviational run out of plus or minus .003 inches. Read that .006 total indicated run out (TIR). No professional FITA archer would enter any contest with new shaft inconsistencies of this magnitude. FITA or Olympic competitions range out to 98 yards.
Bow hunters often believe .003 inches is pretty good; however, most modern bowhunters rarely shoot at game beyond 50 yards…and that is considered extreme distance by most.
4: Large shaft to shaft completed arrow weight deviations will not make you happy either.
The basic problem may be an ammunition one at its root.
I hope this helps,
Konrad
PS
Questions:
What is the clearance between the fletching and buss cables?
Is there actually enough room to experiment with rotating the nock without hitting the cables?
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