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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Synthetic 5W-20 as a Case Lube?
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<blockquote data-quote="boomtube" data-source="post: 374174" data-attributes="member: 9215"><p>"<strong>Found this online: </strong>The very <u>best</u> case lube for bottle neck rifle brass is 100% synthetic motor oil."</p><p> </p><p>I strongly question the value of that source. I've tried most commercal lubes and a lot of subsitutes but haven't tried "synthetic motor oil", doubt I will and certainly never in my case mouths. </p><p> </p><p>Standard motor oils sure don't work very well, no reason to think there's any magic in synthetic and NO such potentially contaminating lube is going to get around my ammo. One of the qualities of good auto lubes is wicking ability and that offers a potential damage to powder and primer. Any such oil tends to cling to fingers pretty well, contaminated fingers and handling primers is a bad idea. Oils are difficult to remove without a solvent, a dry wipe sure won't do it.</p><p> </p><p>The only "sticky" case lubes I've tried were those like STP and lanoline, not the waxes. Waxes - Redding's Imperial and Hornady's Unique - are clean, easy/fast to apply with just finger tips without using a quickly dirted lube pad. It leaves the cases and hands as clean as they need be with just a paper towel, dry wiped. The waxes are harmless to both powder and primers, it works VERY well and it's cheap enough.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="boomtube, post: 374174, member: 9215"] "[B]Found this online: [/B]The very [U]best[/U] case lube for bottle neck rifle brass is 100% synthetic motor oil." I strongly question the value of that source. I've tried most commercal lubes and a lot of subsitutes but haven't tried "synthetic motor oil", doubt I will and certainly never in my case mouths. Standard motor oils sure don't work very well, no reason to think there's any magic in synthetic and NO such potentially contaminating lube is going to get around my ammo. One of the qualities of good auto lubes is wicking ability and that offers a potential damage to powder and primer. Any such oil tends to cling to fingers pretty well, contaminated fingers and handling primers is a bad idea. Oils are difficult to remove without a solvent, a dry wipe sure won't do it. The only "sticky" case lubes I've tried were those like STP and lanoline, not the waxes. Waxes - Redding's Imperial and Hornady's Unique - are clean, easy/fast to apply with just finger tips without using a quickly dirted lube pad. It leaves the cases and hands as clean as they need be with just a paper towel, dry wiped. The waxes are harmless to both powder and primers, it works VERY well and it's cheap enough. [/QUOTE]
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Reloading
Synthetic 5W-20 as a Case Lube?
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