Stiffening forend????

Discussion in 'The Basics, Starting Out' started by grit, Dec 27, 2005.

  1. grit

    grit Well-Known Member

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    I have a winchester 70 in stainless synthetic. I am planning to bed the action shortly. I would like to stiffen the forend at the same time. I would appreciate some recomendations on how to do this.

    Thanks for the help.
     
  2. sullijr

    sullijr Well-Known Member

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    There was a column in one of the shooting mags,but I forget which one.The fore arm was gouged out and lengths of fiberglass fishing rod butts were epoxyed in place.Stffening without adding a lot of weight was accomplished.!!!
     

  3. grit

    grit Well-Known Member

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    Hadn't thought of that. Not bad. I'd like to read the article. I'll do a search.
    Thanks

    Anybody else?
     
  4. BountyHunter

    BountyHunter Writers Guild

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    epoxy bed carbon arrow shafts in forend.

    BH
     
  5. 7mmRHB

    7mmRHB Well-Known Member

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    I've used a couple of different methods that work well. Solid 3/8" aluminum rod bedded or the best I've found, aluminum tubing which you put two lengths side by side and bed. very light and strong. (I have been useing an old tentpole)
     
  6. Idaho_Elk_Huntr

    Idaho_Elk_Huntr Well-Known Member

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    I have been think about doing the same thing. But I have been told by many that I wont be able to get the bedding epoxy to stay because of the release agent they use in the injected molded stocks. Anyone know if there is any truth to this?
     
  7. BountyHunter

    BountyHunter Writers Guild

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    it has to be roughed up good and I have seen guys put small pins across the stock to give something additional for bedding to grab on to.

    BH
     
  8. demarpaint

    demarpaint Well-Known Member

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    Here is how I did mine. Pretty much as BH stated. After I opened it up for the arrow shaft, I drilled small 1/16" holes into the bottom and sides of the stock (in the channel I created), not penetrating the stock. The holes were spaced 1/2" apart, along the inside and sides of the channel. The bottom holes drilled straight down the side holes drilled on a slight downward angle. Rough up the entire area, and clean with Solvent Alcohol. Make sure the alcohol is dry, mix a 2 part epoxy paste, PC 7 or Marine Tex works, and tool it so it conforms to the original shape of the stock and allows the barrel to be floated.
    The 1/16" holes act as a mechanical lock. HTH

    Frank D
     
  9. grit

    grit Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the advice. I posted this question in a couple places. I also did some searches. The results have been interesting and amusing.

    1. Somebody always says you can't do it. No matter what you ask.
    2. Somebody always says yes you can, this is how.

    Now I believe I've got the advice I needed. The fun part is all the things people've tried to stiffen a stock.
    Steel rod
    Alumnimum rod
    fishing pole
    carbon arrows
    tent pole
    valve stem
    mill file
    a pint of epoxy
    flat stock from a bar clamp

    I'm sure there are dozens more.

    Just shows the people shooting guns are as much fun as the guns. Thanks gentlemen.
     
  10. dmjhwk

    dmjhwk Member

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    I have a mk5 inj stock, which has been stiffened with glass cloth, and layered epoxy ,which encase hard foam "box" -more accurately, "coffin shaped" cores.I roughed all surfaces, and made communication holes between all the compartments. Used "acraglass"w/glass filler for the
    base coat, than topped this with many thin layers , followed by the foam "coffin boxes",this brought the bedding up to 3/16" of normal barrel channel.Some additional
    drill work (8, 3/16 holes at 45 deg along each channel side)was done to anchor the layers of fill(4 thin coats) and the final bedding -full length,using the pressure points, and taped/release agent applied to the barrelled action as a cast guide. Additional opening was done at 4 corners of the action,and action screw openings were enlarged to epoxy pillar. This was quite an undertaking-took about a month, and result could not be deflected in a padded vise-a whole lot stiffer. A little fine tuning of the forend press, and
    the group reduction was about 1/2 to 3/4", from 1-1 1/4" to 1/2"to 3/4" consistantly, which may not meet laser stats, but damn sure works for me.If your not familiar somewhat with glass and epoxy, I have to say , I wouldn't recommend,
    unless you are into tweaking things for improvement-some thing I'm somewhat obsessive about. I used an adhesive primer over roughed exterior, followed by flat camo base colors, topped lightly with some trunk "speckle type"spray,
    and sealed with matt acrylic for the exterior finish.No comment on the mental indications here! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  11. grit

    grit Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info. I'll do it next time.