Sticky bolt problems

grinnergetter

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2007
Messages
221
Location
nw indiana
Evening fellas, got a problem. Trying to get my friends brand new 300WM Remington ready pronto for Sept moose hunt.

Every peice of brass wether new brass or once fired reloads sticks to some degree after firing. Not lifting bolt, just pulling back...some we have had to give gentle whack with a book.

Had some spare nickel plated factory rounds and 1 of 3 had very slight tension. Tried new Win and Rem brass.

You can see brass is scraped just above the belt(1/8 inch). WE were shooting 78 gns. of H1000 and tried backing off to 75. Only slightly better results.

We also tried his once fired brass in my rifle and it also stuck in mine.

All rounds loaded easily.

Looked in chamber to see if there was a burr and tried to put a bent pick in rear of chamber to try to feel burr but cannot see or feel anything irregular.

Double checked OAL and tried backing off to see if pressure from bullet being accidently in lands could have produced high pressures.

My thoughts are burr exists that would be much more apt to stop a piece of regular brass than the nickel plated due to hardness.

This is a factory rifle.I'm considering trying to hone rear part of chamber as it worked for someone else on another thread. Its almost like the round grows beyond the size of the chamber but that sound kinda rediculous.

Also we tried 78-79-75 grains and accuracy is pretty terrible. I got behind the wheel and best is doing 3.5 at 100yards. No brake on this rifle makes me really, really appreciate mine.

Any other suggestions?
 
What type of rifle is it?

Dogdinger and I fought the same problem with a Savage. The little wedge that the bolt cams against to start the cartridge back out of the chamber had worn to the point that it wasn't pulling the cartridge free. We shimmed the wedge and everything was fine.

AJ
 
i am having the same problem with my 30-378. I just had a hart barel installed and the bolt lift is fine but very hard to extract the empty. no pressure signs just hard to pull bolt back. also having to tap bolt on ocassions.
 
Tried factory ammo reg brass,same problem.

Checked to make sure base screws were not hitting bolt and nothing was wrong with the front screw on the front base.

So we called Remington and due to time constraints he suggested going to Gander Mountain because they are a factory service center.

Smith suggests that headspace could be wrong. Well I know how to check it to set up a die but what are the specs from the factory?

I'm not buying the headspace theory but what do I know.

Scratches are evident almost all the way around brass.

Anyone think of anything else?
 
Check these items:
  • Clean your chamber with brake cleaner.
  • Clean all the lube off your handloads
  • Use anti-sieze lube on your bolt shroud threads and cam
  • Lift bolt handle fully and with a quick snap
That will do it 90% of the time, if not your handloads may be too hot, regardless of what your reloading manual says. I have several rifles in the same caliber, and some develope pressure much quicker that others.

- Innovative
 
Thanks for the replies..Bass Pro picked up the ball and shipped it to a smith and provided 1 day turn around. Helps to be tight with the hunting dept. manager.

Will let you know what we find out.
Grin
 
If the chamber has been cleaned and you've got scratches on the case after firing, the chamber needs to be polished. If that doesn't fix the problem, Remington should replace the rifle, because the defects in the chamber are too substantial to polish out without opening up the chamber. Opening up the chamber to clean up the defects will just reduce the brass life due to the excessive expansion upon firing and swaging of the brass back down during the reloading process. If you never plan to reload, then a slightly enlarged chamber might be liveable, but I wouldn't accept it. Remington must be hoping that a chamber polishing will take care of their lack of quality control during their chamber cutting process.
 
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Update, rifle was sent by Bass Pro to factory service center and chamber was polished. Good news they turned it around in 1 day. Bad news...brass still sticks when we got up to 79.5 of H1000.
He is now convinced that it is going to Mr. Allen after our moose hunt for a complete rebuilding. Like I told him the first time:)
 
Evening fellas, got a problem. Trying to get my friends brand new 300WM Remington ready pronto for Sept moose hunt.

Every peice of brass wether new brass or once fired reloads sticks to some degree after firing. Not lifting bolt, just pulling back...some we have had to give gentle whack with a book.

Had some spare nickel plated factory rounds and 1 of 3 had very slight tension. Tried new Win and Rem brass.

You can see brass is scraped just above the belt(1/8 inch). WE were shooting 78 gns. of H1000 and tried backing off to 75. Only slightly better results.

We also tried his once fired brass in my rifle and it also stuck in mine.

All rounds loaded easily.

Looked in chamber to see if there was a burr and tried to put a bent pick in rear of chamber to try to feel burr but cannot see or feel anything irregular.

Double checked OAL and tried backing off to see if pressure from bullet being accidently in lands could have produced high pressures.

My thoughts are burr exists that would be much more apt to stop a piece of regular brass than the nickel plated due to hardness.

This is a factory rifle.I'm considering trying to hone rear part of chamber as it worked for someone else on another thread. Its almost like the round grows beyond the size of the chamber but that sound kinda rediculous.

Also we tried 78-79-75 grains and accuracy is pretty terrible. I got behind the wheel and best is doing 3.5 at 100yards. No brake on this rifle makes me really, really appreciate mine.

Any other suggestions?
Try lapping the chamber , attach a shell to a rod put lapping compound on it and use a drill slow speed , don't over do it . Then try it ?
 
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