'starter' scope etc.

Discussion in 'The Basics, Starting Out' started by oldnovice, May 15, 2014.

  1. oldnovice

    oldnovice Member

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    OK, this is my first post. I've been shooting a long time, on and off, but never much past 100 yds. I want to see how well I can learn how to reach out farther. Mostly target oriented. I want to eventually buy or build a nice .308 but I want to start slow. I have a really old Mauser sporter in 30-06 my dad gave me recently, and it's in pretty good shape. I'm thinking of bedding and floating it, maybe tuning the trigger and putting a scope on it to start trying out at medium distances. Then if I'm having fun and want to go further I can either transfer the scope to a new rifle or buy both new. So:
    -Does this sound like a reasonable plan?
    -What should I look for in a scope, and how much should I expect to spend? I don't know half of the vocabulary I see on this site about scopes, I don't know what reticle I want or anything. I just know my vintage eyeballs just won't dial in tight with iron sights like they used to. Recommendations? Or refer me to sources for homework?
     
  2. 300whisper

    300whisper Well-Known Member

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    Welcome to the forum. I am no expert on scopes. These previous threads should help.


    http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f26/good-starter-scope-19560/

    http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f18/best-long-range-hunting-scope-500-a-76989/

    There are way more threads on the forum. You need to search to find specifically what you are looking for.

    Scope considerations:

    Variable or fixed power?
    Tube diameter, 1 inch, 30 mm, 34 mm?
    Objective lens diameter, 35mm, 40mm, 42mm, 50mm...etc?
    Adjustments mil or MOA?
    clicks 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 for MOA or 1 mil per click?
    eye relief
    clarity
    toughness
    relaibility, repeatability
    PRICE! :D
     

  3. FEENIX

    FEENIX Well-Known Member

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    Welcome to LRH and enjoy!

    Bruce Ventura is the resident SME in optics and a site sponsor. Check out his very informative website at High Power Optics
     
  4. oldnovice

    oldnovice Member

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    Thanks very much, gentlemen. I was hoping someone would have an opinion on the potential of this old Mauser rifle, but I think I'm just going to start shooting it and see how it acts.
     
  5. FEENIX

    FEENIX Well-Known Member

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    Thus far, we've provided you answers per your title query. If you want a dedicated response on your rifle, consider a separate thread of it's own with pictures and as many details as you possibly provide for members to work on and help you. lightbulb

    I have a Remington 1903-03 in .30-06 and Carl Gustav M1894 Swedish Mauser in 6.5x55. It's hard to provide advice if we don't know exactly what you have.

    Also, both of the rifles had to have holes drilled and tapped for scope. The 1903's bolt had to be modified to allow clearance for a scope.
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2014
  6. cohunter14

    cohunter14 Well-Known Member

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    Opinions don't really matter as far as the rifle is concerned. Go out and shoot it and see how it does. All rifles are different, so you never know until you do that.
     
  7. oldnovice

    oldnovice Member

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    Thanks again for all the advice. I think my short term plan is to do exactly that. I figured out the problem I was having with the existing Lyman sight was operator error, so I'm going to sight it in and shoot a few boxes with that for now. That'll tell me plenty. I already bought a smaller aperture (.054 I think) than it had on, and I can try an even smaller one. If it seems to have potential, I might just buy a decent hunting scope for this one and use it for hunting and practice, and later I can invest in a complete, dedicated long range setup if I want.
    Here are a few pics just for kicks, if they upload right. If nothing else, she's a pretty classy old girl.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. FearNoWind

    FearNoWind Well-Known Member

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    Scope suggestions:
    Determine the distance you expect to be shooting and select a power, or range of power, that meets your needs for target acquisition at that distance. If it's intended for hunting, consider the field of view. If it's for target, field of view is relatively unimportant as long as you can put the scope on target.
    You will want a parallax adjustment capability.
    Choose a reticle that you can work with in terms of mathematical calculations.
    MilDot scopes work well for some, MOA scopes work better for others and converting Mils to MOA on the fly can make your head spin.
    I thought I wanted a MilDot; shoulda bought the MOA.
    Understand that "MilDot" means on thing to one group of scope manufacturers and something else to others. Example: MiDot spacing on some scopes equates to 3.6 inches, center to center, at a given power (usually the highest power). Others apply different specs. (Zeiss Conquest scopes are 1.8 inches at highest power) so if you choose a MilDot scope it's best to find out what the specs. are before making your decision.
    If you're not sure about which reticle to select, consider a quality scope manufacturer (e.g. Leupold) that is willling and equipped to change out one reticle for another with fast turn around.
    Would enjoy talking about your heritage rifle but will look for another post on that subject.
     
  9. davkrat

    davkrat Well-Known Member

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    I would take a serious look at the Nikon Monarch III's. I am extremely happy with all 3 of my Monarchs, the easily resettable turrets on the Monarch III's are awesome.

    I paid $325 for the 2.5-20X42 on my .308 which works great for my mid-range lighter wight and packable deer/pig rifle. The 4-16X50mm I now have on my 7mm Rem Mag only cost me $391. Have a 2-8 on my CZ .22LR. For around $1,000 I was able to outfit all three rifles with the same basic scope, turrets are the same, duplex reticle is the same. I have had no complaints at all with the clarity of the glass or tracking ability of the turrets. The one problem I had was a dustnib inside the first 4-16 I got which Nikon replaced with the newest model at no cost.

    At around 1:30 on this video you can see me adjust the turrets on the Monarch III. I swapped the replacement 4-16 on to my 7RM and bought the 2.5-10 for my .308. Did quite a bit of sighting in that day. Super simple adjustments: 7mm Rem Mag 150 ETip H4831 ladder test - YouTube
     
  10. rfd

    rfd Well-Known Member

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    cool old rifle, but it may take some efforts and dollars to make it an moa shooter.

    i doubt there's a better scope for the dollars than the swfa s/s series 10x42 30mm tube. also comes in 6x, 12x, 16x, 20x ... for a bunch more $$$, there's other swfa scopes to scope out, including variable powers.

    this is a Tough military sniper scope designed for the navy ... $300, fabulous, i have three, with the 10x my fave.

    for a really nice .308win build on the cheap, consider the marlin xs7vh. 'tween $340 rifle and the $300 scope, Lots less than a grand and a buncha dollar$ left for the obligatory required accessory goodies, including a $100 drop-in boyd th lam stock. :cool:
     
  11. oldnovice

    oldnovice Member

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    Thanks, gentlemen, I'll look into those options when I get ready to spend the bucks to upgrade. Meanwhile, I've been out a couple times since last post, with just the peep sight. I have always been an exclusively open-sights guy, but that just doesn't work any more and I've learned that the magnifying effect of a small aperture lets me shoot pretty good with my unaided eye. I had her sighted in and grouping pretty good at 50 yards and moved over to a 100 yard bench; got one shot placed decently, but then I couldn't find the front bead to line up another shot. Looked up and the whole front sight was on the ground! Apparently that's pretty common, and not surprising now that I see that it was only glued on. Have to be impressed with a glue that's held up to heat and cold and g's since pre-1950, knowing my Dad used to hunt a lot. Anyway, it's back to the gunsmith. I probably ought to start another thread about this new direction this adventure is taking.