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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Spotting Scope Power??
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 558788" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>try to set your scope with at least a 2.75 light transmission factor, and really a 3.0 is much better. Also a little thing I didn't touch on, and really few users know as well, is the addition of screw on filters for your scope. But there's a downside which I'll tell you about later. They make filters that will add contrast and take it away. Help to make certain colors stand out, and so on. Plus on those super hot and bright sunny days there are polarizing filters and even pure haze filters to help you out (keep in mind you will loose a little bit of light, but not a lot). Now for that dreaded downside that you all knew was gonna come. Big diameter filters don't come cheap! As in seriously expensive for the great big ones that are top of the line in quality. But they do maker cheapers ones that will do the job. A 60mm filter will cost a fraction of what an 82mm will get you for! One of these days I'm gonna break down and buy an 82mm polarizing filter at about $279!! Yet if it were a 60mm lense I could get one for less than $100, and probably closer to$75.</p><p> </p><p>For an eyepiece, I recommend that you ask around to try several. Zoom eyepieces are nice, but a prime eyepiece will almost always give you a better view. I prefer prime eye pieces because my eyes don't seem to like the changes that come about from going from low power to high power. I like the long eye reliefe eyepieces, but also would think that one of the wide angle eyepieces might work even better.</p><p> </p><p>Often I see guys out at the range or elsewhere constantly fighting with a good scope, or even cussing the blurred image from the scope when the problem was the cheap tripod and mount they bought at Best Buys or Kmart. You kinda get what you pay for here boys and girls! Buy the most ridgid tripod your budgit will allow. Also try to imagine just how your gonna use it (hight wise). Probably gonna be less than 24" most of the time, so you don't need the added weight of one that goes to 60". The better tripods will need a head mounted on them. I use a ball mounting head on mine, but actually have three I can use. Then with that head I attach a male dovetail on the scope to latch into the claw on the head. I happen to use Monfretto stuff, but there are several really good brands out there. On the otherhand I don't have a tripod that will go under 24" that's anygood, and I need one. It will be a Monfretto because of all the heads I own. They make carbon fiber ones that are very light and have virtually zero vibration. I honestly think 50% of the scopes that are replaced are because of a bad mount!</p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 558788, member: 25383"] try to set your scope with at least a 2.75 light transmission factor, and really a 3.0 is much better. Also a little thing I didn't touch on, and really few users know as well, is the addition of screw on filters for your scope. But there's a downside which I'll tell you about later. They make filters that will add contrast and take it away. Help to make certain colors stand out, and so on. Plus on those super hot and bright sunny days there are polarizing filters and even pure haze filters to help you out (keep in mind you will loose a little bit of light, but not a lot). Now for that dreaded downside that you all knew was gonna come. Big diameter filters don't come cheap! As in seriously expensive for the great big ones that are top of the line in quality. But they do maker cheapers ones that will do the job. A 60mm filter will cost a fraction of what an 82mm will get you for! One of these days I'm gonna break down and buy an 82mm polarizing filter at about $279!! Yet if it were a 60mm lense I could get one for less than $100, and probably closer to$75. For an eyepiece, I recommend that you ask around to try several. Zoom eyepieces are nice, but a prime eyepiece will almost always give you a better view. I prefer prime eye pieces because my eyes don't seem to like the changes that come about from going from low power to high power. I like the long eye reliefe eyepieces, but also would think that one of the wide angle eyepieces might work even better. Often I see guys out at the range or elsewhere constantly fighting with a good scope, or even cussing the blurred image from the scope when the problem was the cheap tripod and mount they bought at Best Buys or Kmart. You kinda get what you pay for here boys and girls! Buy the most ridgid tripod your budgit will allow. Also try to imagine just how your gonna use it (hight wise). Probably gonna be less than 24" most of the time, so you don't need the added weight of one that goes to 60". The better tripods will need a head mounted on them. I use a ball mounting head on mine, but actually have three I can use. Then with that head I attach a male dovetail on the scope to latch into the claw on the head. I happen to use Monfretto stuff, but there are several really good brands out there. On the otherhand I don't have a tripod that will go under 24" that's anygood, and I need one. It will be a Monfretto because of all the heads I own. They make carbon fiber ones that are very light and have virtually zero vibration. I honestly think 50% of the scopes that are replaced are because of a bad mount! gary [/QUOTE]
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