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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Sorting Brass
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<blockquote data-quote="QuietTexan" data-source="post: 2382103" data-attributes="member: 116181"><p>They yeah, I would keep them as separated as possible even though it's a headache and you might have to spend a lot of time sorting/relegate to foulers/just trash some mixed up cases you have and buy a new matched set.</p><p></p><p>I have a stack of random 308s in loading blocks on my desk right now that I sorted for a friend - three headstamps; one headstamp has one weight group, and two other headstamps each broke down into two weight groups. I'm not volume sorting past that because I don't think it'll make a difference because I'm only loading one set of cases for him, the rest are going into ziplocks for if he needs them for something in the future.</p><p></p><p>Personally I'm in this game for high accuracy precision, so I match cases to a barrel - buy as many cases of the same brand/lot as you think you'll need for the life of the tube, only use the cases in that barrel, and never let them get mixed up with anything else. Even if I'm messing around with different kinds of brass to try I'll buy enough of that one lot, and if they don't look good after testing 10 or so of them I have the rest for a future barrel still unfired. It sounds like a lot but I think once you've done it this way a couple of times it becomes normal and it's not something you have to think much about. Also not necessary if you're reloading to 1MOA, you can get that with any lot matched case set.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Not sure I'd put this level of effort into something if I could buy a matched set of cases. It's easier to start fresh with brass IMO, and if you're shooting a factory chamber a matched set might be all you need and you'll never need to weigh sort them. It's a process that doesn't add a ton of value depending on other variables.</p><p></p><p>I think water is easy enough though if you want to sort:</p><ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Separate the brass you have as best you can by headstamps first and case weight second(you should see some pretty clear breaks in the data inside the same headstamp).</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">After shooting with a good stout load and before resizing</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Leave the primers in the cases</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Weigh<ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Put a case on your scale</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Zero the scale</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Use an eyedropper to fill up the case with a mix of 50/50 water and rubbing alcohol</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Record the weight</li> </ol></li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Repeat until all the cases measured</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Run the weights through some basic statistics in excel or on paper, and see what you've got.</li> </ol><p>If you don't want to use water, you can use a super fine ball powder like for a pistol, then zero on the empty case and fill to the level case neck with powder. Won't be as accurate or precise, but doesn't involve water.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="QuietTexan, post: 2382103, member: 116181"] They yeah, I would keep them as separated as possible even though it's a headache and you might have to spend a lot of time sorting/relegate to foulers/just trash some mixed up cases you have and buy a new matched set. I have a stack of random 308s in loading blocks on my desk right now that I sorted for a friend - three headstamps; one headstamp has one weight group, and two other headstamps each broke down into two weight groups. I'm not volume sorting past that because I don't think it'll make a difference because I'm only loading one set of cases for him, the rest are going into ziplocks for if he needs them for something in the future. Personally I'm in this game for high accuracy precision, so I match cases to a barrel - buy as many cases of the same brand/lot as you think you'll need for the life of the tube, only use the cases in that barrel, and never let them get mixed up with anything else. Even if I'm messing around with different kinds of brass to try I'll buy enough of that one lot, and if they don't look good after testing 10 or so of them I have the rest for a future barrel still unfired. It sounds like a lot but I think once you've done it this way a couple of times it becomes normal and it's not something you have to think much about. Also not necessary if you're reloading to 1MOA, you can get that with any lot matched case set. Not sure I'd put this level of effort into something if I could buy a matched set of cases. It's easier to start fresh with brass IMO, and if you're shooting a factory chamber a matched set might be all you need and you'll never need to weigh sort them. It's a process that doesn't add a ton of value depending on other variables. I think water is easy enough though if you want to sort: [LIST=1] [*]Separate the brass you have as best you can by headstamps first and case weight second(you should see some pretty clear breaks in the data inside the same headstamp). [*]After shooting with a good stout load and before resizing [*]Leave the primers in the cases [*]Weigh [LIST=1] [*]Put a case on your scale [*]Zero the scale [*]Use an eyedropper to fill up the case with a mix of 50/50 water and rubbing alcohol [*]Record the weight [/LIST] [*]Repeat until all the cases measured [*]Run the weights through some basic statistics in excel or on paper, and see what you've got. [/LIST] If you don't want to use water, you can use a super fine ball powder like for a pistol, then zero on the empty case and fill to the level case neck with powder. Won't be as accurate or precise, but doesn't involve water. [/QUOTE]
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