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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Sinclair NT-4000 Neck Turning?
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<blockquote data-quote="SBruce" data-source="post: 537683" data-attributes="member: 21068"><p>Sounds like you're on the right track, and using the right tools for the job (cutter angle may be in question however).</p><p> </p><p>I'd call what you've got more of a "Minimum Turn" rather than a true "Tight Neck", but that may just be jargon speak. The benefit of a minimum turn neck is that you don't <u>have to</u> turn it all the way down. We don't have to make two passes to get the round to chamber, we can just take off the high spots, much as you've done so far.</p><p> </p><p>You certainly <u>can</u> take off another swipe, it wont hurt anything, but I don't see it as a benefit in this case. It will just mean more working of the brass on fireing/sizing. Especially since you'll probably want at least a couple thou neck tension on the bullet...........You'd have a .308 loaded round and it will expand to .311 and spring back to .310 when fired. Then, it'll get squeezed down to .305 or .306 in order to have that .002 tension once loaded. You'd in effect be working the brass as much as .005 every reload.</p><p> </p><p>Now, that being said; if your chamber was a .309, you would want to turn all the way around. In bench guns, we can do this and not even have to resize the case. It'll expand .001 to fire, spring back that same .001 and then we can seat a bullet with just enough tension to hold it in place. Not really something that should be done with a hunting rifle IMO.</p><p> </p><p>I'd be suprised if you see any difference in accuracy from the ones you've done already and the ones you go all the way around on. But, if you do; let me know. I'm not too old to learn something new<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SBruce, post: 537683, member: 21068"] Sounds like you're on the right track, and using the right tools for the job (cutter angle may be in question however). I'd call what you've got more of a "Minimum Turn" rather than a true "Tight Neck", but that may just be jargon speak. The benefit of a minimum turn neck is that you don't [U]have to[/U] turn it all the way down. We don't have to make two passes to get the round to chamber, we can just take off the high spots, much as you've done so far. You certainly [U]can[/U] take off another swipe, it wont hurt anything, but I don't see it as a benefit in this case. It will just mean more working of the brass on fireing/sizing. Especially since you'll probably want at least a couple thou neck tension on the bullet...........You'd have a .308 loaded round and it will expand to .311 and spring back to .310 when fired. Then, it'll get squeezed down to .305 or .306 in order to have that .002 tension once loaded. You'd in effect be working the brass as much as .005 every reload. Now, that being said; if your chamber was a .309, you would want to turn all the way around. In bench guns, we can do this and not even have to resize the case. It'll expand .001 to fire, spring back that same .001 and then we can seat a bullet with just enough tension to hold it in place. Not really something that should be done with a hunting rifle IMO. I'd be suprised if you see any difference in accuracy from the ones you've done already and the ones you go all the way around on. But, if you do; let me know. I'm not too old to learn something new:) [/QUOTE]
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Sinclair NT-4000 Neck Turning?
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