Sighting in rifle WITH-OUT lead sled

Bigeclipse

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Hey all,
I just bought a new 300WSM X-bolt that I will be sighting in this weekend. My question is....what techniques do you all use to sight a scope? The biggest problem I have is I do not have a lead sled. I have one of those plastic gimmickie Caldwell Matrix's, which when I sighted in my 7mm WSM last year, I ended up with a nice scope kick to my range eye-glasses which gave me a nice little cut on my nose. I do have enough eye relief, the problem was the caldwell matrix did not allow me to really shoulder the rifle so it kicked much farther back than normal. After that, I ended up sighting it off some bags, which worked for hunting but I never shot more than 200 yards. I would like to get this one sighted in better but have no lead sled....I know...I SHOULD buy one and maybe will someday. What is your guys advice? The farthest I can shoot at the range I will be at is 200 yards.
 
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I don't own one either. I use a barrel rest a cheap one at that, a MTM and off the bench with that.

I'm not fond of tying down a rifle. Maybe the girlfriend but not the rifle......:)
 
Hey all,
I just bought a new 300WSM X-bolt that I will be sighting in this weekend. My question is....what techniques do you all use to sight a scope? The biggest problem I have is I do not have a lead sled. I have one of those plastic gimmickie Caldwell Matrix's, which when I sighted in my 7mm WSM last year, I ended up with a nice scope kick to my range eye-glasses which gave me a nice little cut on my nose. I do have enough eye relief, the problem was the caldwell matrix did not allow me to really shoulder the rifle so it kicked much farther back than normal. After that, I ended up sighting it off some bags, which worked for hunting but I never shot more than 200 yards. I would like to get this one sighted in better but have no lead sled....I know...I SHOULD buy one and maybe will someday. What is your guys advice? The farthest I can shoot at the range I will be at is 200 yards.

With all due respect just imagine the year is 1890 and you just got your brand new 300WSM and 20 boxes of shells and you had to sight it in. How would you hold the rifle still enough to be accurate with nothing mechanical available? Just go give that a try. You might be quite surprised just how easy and fun that is.
 
With all due respect just imagine the year is 1890 and you just got your brand new 300WSM and 20 boxes of shells and you had to sight it in. How would you hold the rifle still enough to be accurate with nothing mechanical available? Just go give that a try. You might be quite surprised just how easy and fun that is.

I welcome all opinions/advice. I dont mean to sound like such an amature. I used to shoot lots of trap/skeet along with open sights in the range. I am new to scopes as I only started hunting last year with a rifle. Only have bow hunted before. I just want to be able to make that 400 yard shot, which I know...I need to know the ballistics of my gun and also shoot a lot. The only problem being i can only go to 200 yards at my range. To be an ethical hunter, I would like my scope to be as perfect as possible at 200 yards, so when i try that 400 yard shot, I dont just wound the animal. I do have a pretty steady aim holding free-hand...due to trap/skeet but I feel shooting through a scope is a whole new ball game.
 
I use a bi-pod in the front and sandbags in the rear. I was never a fan of the lead sled. I rarely shoot without a bi-pod. This works for me, however, maybe not for others.
 
I just use front and rear bags, all you need. I don't like the led sled because it alters your hold on the rifle. Possibly changing your POI when shooting in the field.
 
Read this and thank me later!


http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f116/importance-being-solid-91149/


=================================================
This ain't real solid but it is better than nothing!

POOR MANs' Lead Sled: Did this for a quick range support back in the day..



Get a card board box that would hold 4 gallon jugs of milk or more. (I used milk boxes-SQ).
  1. Cut a v shape about 3" or 4" in side at top of one end.
  2. Cut a Deeper V in the other end that is deep enough to hold the rear stock and have it stick out enough to reach your shoulder. Get 3 boxes. Allows u to screw up 2 then have a good one. Just lay your gun down in the gun holder.
Did this back in the day on my .270 and it works, and you can throw it away each time.....best part.


Good luck....
 
Do what T3 said!!!

Lead sleds and such are for those who have no idea of what they are doing. That is, didja ever attempt to carry a lead sled around the mountains? If you sight-in off of one you had best be shooting at game off of one.

Just MHO:rolleyes:
 
I have a lead sled, but it's only use for the last several years has been as a cleaning cradle. I never use it for shooting anymore but rather a harris bipos and rear bag.
 
I just use front and rear bags, all you need. I don't like the led sled because it alters your hold on the rifle. Possibly changing your POI when shooting in the field.

Not to mention the shooter needs to manage the recoil! What good is it if you have to depend on a sled to suck it up!
 
I use a Caldwell bag and an old wool sock filled with poly beads for a rear bag. If I need some extra height, I'll break down a cardboard box and/or fold as shims. I shoot off the tail gate or prone. At the range, I just use their sandbags or my own stuff it all the sandbags are in use. I can see using a sled to keep from getting your shoulder punished but I just use a shoulder pad. In the field, I shoot off my pack or from sitting, knees up and pack in my lap. I like this because it all fits in a range bag and there's nothing to break.
 

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most my shots will be out of a tree stands including the field I shoot out to 400 yards. fortunately the field stand has a gun rest. So there will be no Bi-pods for me. I was just speaking of the initial sighting-in of the rifle/scope and the best ways to go about it. Thank you all for your advice.
 
I use a modified lead sled mostly during load development. Once satisfied, I shoot it in prone (my most likely shooting position afield and w/ bipod) and make necessary adjustments as required.
 
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