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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Muzzleloader Hunting
Shimmed 2 V2's today....
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<blockquote data-quote="SidecarFlip" data-source="post: 793626" data-attributes="member: 39764"><p>It takes a bit of time, about 3 hours for each rifle and of course you have to disregard the cautionary label on the shim kit. What I found interesting was the variance in the depth of the countersunk bore between the 2 rifles, one bore was appreciably deeper than the other, 0.010 or so. I checked the depths with a micrometer depth gage prior to applying any shims.</p><p> </p><p>You have to be really careful installing the shims, especially the 0.002 size. They want to get cocked in the bore and you have to jostle them in. I used a solid carbide machinists scriber and my magnifying headgear.</p><p> </p><p>The firing pin retainers are well out past the breech face now. I set each retainer at 10 inch pounds, seemed like a good torque value.</p><p> </p><p>Closing the action requires a firm close, not a snap shut, but a firm shut. If you shut the action with less than a firm shut, the trigger won't pull back so I know, I'm right there. The cups are showing a ring around the outer edge, all the way around, the primers I'm using are CCI 209 standards with copper plated cups that make seeing the fit easy.</p><p> </p><p>I used about half a box of primers setting up both rifles, wanted to get it as close as possible without actually striking the primer pill.</p><p> </p><p>Absolutely no blow by from the breech plug primer pocket and the primers come out just as easy as before and it's burning most all of the Blackhorn, we swabbed the barrels after the second load on each, then sent 8 more without swabbing and the last one went in as easy as the first one, not that the yellow saboted TMZ, don't load easy because they don't. The FMJ's went in real nice and stayed nice and easy to load.</p><p> </p><p>I brought them both in the house and cleaned both. 2 patches in each barrel with CVA bore cleaner and the 3rd patch was clean. Pulled the 209 breechplug, a bit of bore cleaner, a Q-tip and hot water and all is like new.</p><p> </p><p>No cleaning of the breech face or the lug area because nothing blew out.</p><p> </p><p>Both rifles are grouping in 1.5 inches at 100 yards with 100 grains of Blackhorn. I'm tickled.</p><p> </p><p>Next comes some chronometer readings. I want to find the sweet spot for the Barnes and the Thors (which are actually non-saboted Barnes). I'm going to order some non-saboted lead polymer tipped and fiddle with them too.</p><p> </p><p>All in all, it's fairly easy to take a production rifle with an excellent barrel but some detractions and make a better rifle from it.</p><p> </p><p>I suspect my centerfires will be spending more time in the gun cabinet next fall.....</p><p> </p><p>The only negative aspect is the time it takes to get it just right, just the right amount of crush on the cup, and, you can't ever switch primer brands or style because cup height varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, while not much, maybe a couple thousands, being at the edge of a slam fire condition and substitutiing a higher cup could have bad results.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SidecarFlip, post: 793626, member: 39764"] It takes a bit of time, about 3 hours for each rifle and of course you have to disregard the cautionary label on the shim kit. What I found interesting was the variance in the depth of the countersunk bore between the 2 rifles, one bore was appreciably deeper than the other, 0.010 or so. I checked the depths with a micrometer depth gage prior to applying any shims. You have to be really careful installing the shims, especially the 0.002 size. They want to get cocked in the bore and you have to jostle them in. I used a solid carbide machinists scriber and my magnifying headgear. The firing pin retainers are well out past the breech face now. I set each retainer at 10 inch pounds, seemed like a good torque value. Closing the action requires a firm close, not a snap shut, but a firm shut. If you shut the action with less than a firm shut, the trigger won't pull back so I know, I'm right there. The cups are showing a ring around the outer edge, all the way around, the primers I'm using are CCI 209 standards with copper plated cups that make seeing the fit easy. I used about half a box of primers setting up both rifles, wanted to get it as close as possible without actually striking the primer pill. Absolutely no blow by from the breech plug primer pocket and the primers come out just as easy as before and it's burning most all of the Blackhorn, we swabbed the barrels after the second load on each, then sent 8 more without swabbing and the last one went in as easy as the first one, not that the yellow saboted TMZ, don't load easy because they don't. The FMJ's went in real nice and stayed nice and easy to load. I brought them both in the house and cleaned both. 2 patches in each barrel with CVA bore cleaner and the 3rd patch was clean. Pulled the 209 breechplug, a bit of bore cleaner, a Q-tip and hot water and all is like new. No cleaning of the breech face or the lug area because nothing blew out. Both rifles are grouping in 1.5 inches at 100 yards with 100 grains of Blackhorn. I'm tickled. Next comes some chronometer readings. I want to find the sweet spot for the Barnes and the Thors (which are actually non-saboted Barnes). I'm going to order some non-saboted lead polymer tipped and fiddle with them too. All in all, it's fairly easy to take a production rifle with an excellent barrel but some detractions and make a better rifle from it. I suspect my centerfires will be spending more time in the gun cabinet next fall..... The only negative aspect is the time it takes to get it just right, just the right amount of crush on the cup, and, you can't ever switch primer brands or style because cup height varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, while not much, maybe a couple thousands, being at the edge of a slam fire condition and substitutiing a higher cup could have bad results. [/QUOTE]
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Shimmed 2 V2's today....
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