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Long Range Hunting & Shooting
SFP or FFP
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<blockquote data-quote="lancetkenyon" data-source="post: 1327196" data-attributes="member: 68875"><p>I only use FFP for all of my rifle shooting. Hunting spot and stalk where shots vary between 20 and 500 yards or more, glassing and shooting long range when needed, long range steel, paper at 100/200/400, etc.</p><p></p><p>I want my glass to all be the same focal plane for ease of use. I still hunt and spot and stalk with the reticle turned down to minimum power, in the event of a close shot for a wider FOV and quick target acquisition. If the game is moving at distance, it makes getting in in the scope easy too. I can then power up to where I feel comfortable. If time does not allow at reasonable distances, I have held subtensions numerous times. On a 3-20x50, if I crank magnification up to 12X on a 350 yard shot, with a FFP scope, holdovers on subtensions are always consistent. 1.5 MIL is 1.5MIL on 3x, 7.5x, 14.34x, 19.6x. But if I have time to dial, I dial. But knowing my subtensions will be the same throughout mag range is one less thing I have to worry about. Range and hold, not range, check magnification ring and adjust to ensure I am either full/half/quarter, do the math, and hold. My scopes and reticles, for the most part, are very usable from minimum magnification with most having either a thicker outer stadia to either draw your eye or act as an "open center" for close shots, or the fine portion of the reticle is visible at min mag. Also, if all else fails, illumination to bring it out is available. I have never had an issue with this however. Even at close fast moving targets or quick shots at minimum mag at ranges out to 350+ when time is not a luxury I have to get a shot off.</p><p></p><p>On the other hand, none of my reticles seem too heavy at max magnification as to obscure a target, unless I am shooting at dimes at 400 yards.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="lancetkenyon, post: 1327196, member: 68875"] I only use FFP for all of my rifle shooting. Hunting spot and stalk where shots vary between 20 and 500 yards or more, glassing and shooting long range when needed, long range steel, paper at 100/200/400, etc. I want my glass to all be the same focal plane for ease of use. I still hunt and spot and stalk with the reticle turned down to minimum power, in the event of a close shot for a wider FOV and quick target acquisition. If the game is moving at distance, it makes getting in in the scope easy too. I can then power up to where I feel comfortable. If time does not allow at reasonable distances, I have held subtensions numerous times. On a 3-20x50, if I crank magnification up to 12X on a 350 yard shot, with a FFP scope, holdovers on subtensions are always consistent. 1.5 MIL is 1.5MIL on 3x, 7.5x, 14.34x, 19.6x. But if I have time to dial, I dial. But knowing my subtensions will be the same throughout mag range is one less thing I have to worry about. Range and hold, not range, check magnification ring and adjust to ensure I am either full/half/quarter, do the math, and hold. My scopes and reticles, for the most part, are very usable from minimum magnification with most having either a thicker outer stadia to either draw your eye or act as an "open center" for close shots, or the fine portion of the reticle is visible at min mag. Also, if all else fails, illumination to bring it out is available. I have never had an issue with this however. Even at close fast moving targets or quick shots at minimum mag at ranges out to 350+ when time is not a luxury I have to get a shot off. On the other hand, none of my reticles seem too heavy at max magnification as to obscure a target, unless I am shooting at dimes at 400 yards. [/QUOTE]
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