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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Setting a Rem 700 up with a barrel nut.
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<blockquote data-quote="NesikaChad" data-source="post: 227538" data-attributes="member: 7449"><p>In benchrest, barrels are to guns what tires are to race cars.</p><p></p><p>What your wanting to do is totally feasable and quite common. It's called a switch barrel gun.</p><p></p><p>There's no need for a barrel nut (assuming you mean like Savage does) for a Remington.</p><p></p><p>Just have another barrel fitted to the receiver (with an identical contour) and then you switch them out.</p><p></p><p>A few points to consider.</p><p></p><p>In bench rest, guys typically don't screw a barrel on with a crazy amount of force. Some don't go much past hand tight.</p><p></p><p>This is fine when all your after is group size. You have sighters in competition that will allow you to get the scope timed up again.</p><p></p><p>Rifles for other applications however depend on group center as well as group size, so the barrel should be tightened pretty well otherwise your zero is likely to change on a continual basis.</p><p></p><p>A barrel vice is great to have along with some steel mandrels for your cylinder OD. To prevent boogering up the barrel, a thin piece of leather rubbed down with some rosin works pretty good when sandwiched between the barrel and the mandrels. </p><p></p><p>If you ever get a sticky barrel, soak it in Kroil and then warm up the action with a hot air gun till its smoking and stinking up your shop real good. They'll usually break apart after that.</p><p></p><p>If your wanting a barrel nut to fascilitate rapid barrel switching in the field then I guess a barrel nut is the way to go, but I would still encourage someone doing this to use some sort of vice. One slip with a spanner wrench (which is way too easy to do) and the nut gets goobered up and/or the barreled action goes flying.</p><p></p><p>Good luck.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="NesikaChad, post: 227538, member: 7449"] In benchrest, barrels are to guns what tires are to race cars. What your wanting to do is totally feasable and quite common. It's called a switch barrel gun. There's no need for a barrel nut (assuming you mean like Savage does) for a Remington. Just have another barrel fitted to the receiver (with an identical contour) and then you switch them out. A few points to consider. In bench rest, guys typically don't screw a barrel on with a crazy amount of force. Some don't go much past hand tight. This is fine when all your after is group size. You have sighters in competition that will allow you to get the scope timed up again. Rifles for other applications however depend on group center as well as group size, so the barrel should be tightened pretty well otherwise your zero is likely to change on a continual basis. A barrel vice is great to have along with some steel mandrels for your cylinder OD. To prevent boogering up the barrel, a thin piece of leather rubbed down with some rosin works pretty good when sandwiched between the barrel and the mandrels. If you ever get a sticky barrel, soak it in Kroil and then warm up the action with a hot air gun till its smoking and stinking up your shop real good. They'll usually break apart after that. If your wanting a barrel nut to fascilitate rapid barrel switching in the field then I guess a barrel nut is the way to go, but I would still encourage someone doing this to use some sort of vice. One slip with a spanner wrench (which is way too easy to do) and the nut gets goobered up and/or the barreled action goes flying. Good luck. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Setting a Rem 700 up with a barrel nut.
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