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Scope Rings with Integrated Level
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<blockquote data-quote="Teri Anne" data-source="post: 2747211" data-attributes="member: 118816"><p>I am relatively new to the bubble level concept. I never had much of an issue with canting the rifle causing accuracy issues or enlarged shot groups. My current long range rifle is a factory T3 in 30-06. I bought the rifle used so have no idea how many rounds there are down the factory barrel but as long as it shoots sum MOA I really don't much care. I have a Talley 20 MOA rail, Vortex Pro Series 30 mm rings and a Vortex Diamondback 6 x 24 x 50 mounted on the top of it. A few years ago I was practicing at 300 yards and noticed that the groups were nice and tight at 100 yards that at 300 the dispersion pattern had opened up to slightly more than 2 inches at 300 yards, and the group had taken on a oval shape. A friend mentioned that I might be canting the rifle slightly, which was something that I hadn't though much about since it never was an issue before. I paid close attention when shooting the next group and the group returned to the typical circular pattern. To keep a longer story short I bought a Vortex 30 mm bubble level and after rechecking the scope level with the rifle I installed the level on the left side of the scope since I shoot right handed most of the time and went back out to the range. It was interesting to find that when I thought the rifle was level it was actually 1/8 to 1/4 bubble off most of the time. With the rifle now level the group sizes diminished somewhat and became consistent. </p><p></p><p>As far as the scope walking, the only time I have had that issue rear it's ugly head was with my first 300 Mag, a Winchester Model 70 with a synthetic stock that tipped the scales at 6 1/2 pounds before scope and mounts. At the time I he Leupold two piece bases and mounts on a 4 X 12 X 40 Redfield Accu Range - Accu Track scope. The Winchester kicked like a mule and I had issues with the scope moving in the mounts. I couldn't get the rifle to group much less than 1 1/2 and eventually when my shoulder started telling me it did not like the recoil I sold the rifle. I now wonder if the larger group was multiplied not only by the scope walking but my shoulder saying enough is enough? <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite12" alt="o_O" title="Er... what? o_O" loading="lazy" data-shortname="o_O" /> My latest venture into the 300 WM was a Browning AB3. I had a custom muzzle brake installed before I ever pulled the trigger so recoil was not bad at all. The brake brought the recoil down to somewhere between a 243 and a 308, quite comfortable all in all. This rifle had barrel issues with the inside of the bore looking like a gold mine after a few shots and groups opening up after as few as 5 shots. Should have sent the rifle back to Browning but didn't. (Silli Me!!!) The cost of the 300 WM factory ammo was cost prohibitive and with up to almost 70 grains powder reloading wasn't much cheaper, especially these days. I sold it a few weeks ago, now have to find something else to play with. I have a friend who has a 7MM Mag, maybe that might be something to look into playing with. Anybody have any ideas for a rifle shooting easy to find factory ammo, no wildcats or off the wall calibers and most importantly will hold or increase in value?</p><p></p><p>I guess the moral of the story is that even though you think you are doing everything right, there might be some insidious little glitch messing you up. Sometimes you have to look beyond the end of your nose to fix what is causing you issues. [ATTACH=full]439320[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Teri Anne, post: 2747211, member: 118816"] I am relatively new to the bubble level concept. I never had much of an issue with canting the rifle causing accuracy issues or enlarged shot groups. My current long range rifle is a factory T3 in 30-06. I bought the rifle used so have no idea how many rounds there are down the factory barrel but as long as it shoots sum MOA I really don't much care. I have a Talley 20 MOA rail, Vortex Pro Series 30 mm rings and a Vortex Diamondback 6 x 24 x 50 mounted on the top of it. A few years ago I was practicing at 300 yards and noticed that the groups were nice and tight at 100 yards that at 300 the dispersion pattern had opened up to slightly more than 2 inches at 300 yards, and the group had taken on a oval shape. A friend mentioned that I might be canting the rifle slightly, which was something that I hadn't though much about since it never was an issue before. I paid close attention when shooting the next group and the group returned to the typical circular pattern. To keep a longer story short I bought a Vortex 30 mm bubble level and after rechecking the scope level with the rifle I installed the level on the left side of the scope since I shoot right handed most of the time and went back out to the range. It was interesting to find that when I thought the rifle was level it was actually 1/8 to 1/4 bubble off most of the time. With the rifle now level the group sizes diminished somewhat and became consistent. As far as the scope walking, the only time I have had that issue rear it's ugly head was with my first 300 Mag, a Winchester Model 70 with a synthetic stock that tipped the scales at 6 1/2 pounds before scope and mounts. At the time I he Leupold two piece bases and mounts on a 4 X 12 X 40 Redfield Accu Range - Accu Track scope. The Winchester kicked like a mule and I had issues with the scope moving in the mounts. I couldn't get the rifle to group much less than 1 1/2 and eventually when my shoulder started telling me it did not like the recoil I sold the rifle. I now wonder if the larger group was multiplied not only by the scope walking but my shoulder saying enough is enough? o_O My latest venture into the 300 WM was a Browning AB3. I had a custom muzzle brake installed before I ever pulled the trigger so recoil was not bad at all. The brake brought the recoil down to somewhere between a 243 and a 308, quite comfortable all in all. This rifle had barrel issues with the inside of the bore looking like a gold mine after a few shots and groups opening up after as few as 5 shots. Should have sent the rifle back to Browning but didn't. (Silli Me!!!) The cost of the 300 WM factory ammo was cost prohibitive and with up to almost 70 grains powder reloading wasn't much cheaper, especially these days. I sold it a few weeks ago, now have to find something else to play with. I have a friend who has a 7MM Mag, maybe that might be something to look into playing with. Anybody have any ideas for a rifle shooting easy to find factory ammo, no wildcats or off the wall calibers and most importantly will hold or increase in value? I guess the moral of the story is that even though you think you are doing everything right, there might be some insidious little glitch messing you up. Sometimes you have to look beyond the end of your nose to fix what is causing you issues. [ATTACH type="full"]439320[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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