Scope -Dialing Up Elevation ?

You've gotten some great advice above. My thoughts are:

Get a scope with good turrets. Messing around with adjustments on regular scopes that can't really be "zeroed" and with numbers that can't be seen unless you're looking down at them gets old.

Zero for 100 yds but feel free to carry with some clicks "a 300 yd zero, etc" dialed in. This allows you to check your zero under different conditions, different altitudes, etc that would change trajectory at a longer range even if your rifle has held its zero perfectly.

Print out a dropchart and tape it to your stock. There are plenty of programs you can use listed in the thread mentioned above. As an Engineer not afraid of numbers ( /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif ), I prefer MOA as in 10.25, 10.50, 10.75, 11.00, etc. With an MOA turret with 1/4 clicks, there's no counting envolved and you know exactly where to go--just crank to the right mark. I do it like this:

DropChart.JPG


Of course it goes without saying, that all this will just be a rough starting point until you actually shoot at the ranges and verify the accuracy--depending upon the accuracy of your inputs to the programs (velocity, BC, environmental conditions, scope height, click value--just because it says 1/4 MOA doesn't mean it is exactly--etc). But this is a basic skill you need to learn that is sort of the foundation of everything. Practice makes perfect.

As for BDC's, I was always turned off by the fact you'd be locked into a single load under a single set of conditions. A new $50 knob every time you switch loads, go hunting at a different altitude, etc would get real old I thought. But recently I've been experimenting with making my own to tape onto the turret. If you do a search, you'll find discussion about this sort of thing here from the past. It's certainly more of a PITA than making a dropchart, but I'm starting to believe it will be worth the effort. Basically all you're doing is transfering the ranges from the dropchart directly to the turret which I think will be much nicer to use in the field. And when you change loads, go to a different set of conditions, etc, just rip the old one off and put on the new one.

T1BDC.JPG


Anyway, learn to walk first. Print out a drop chart and start living at the range.... Much of this stuff just comes with practice. And in practice everybody developes their own personal preferences about how they like to do things. Eventually you'll find yours.
 
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I think i'll stick with the 200yd zero initially and get my ballistics card in the MOA+x amount of clicks.And i will take the advice to go off the numbers on the scope turrets and not count MOA

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You might consider a slight variation in your idea. Zero your scope at 100 yards. This way you can come back to a simple 100 yard zero when ever you need. Then, using a ballistics calculator, determine what your "point blank range" zero distance is for the size target of your choice. This might be 193 yards for an 8" kill zone on deer out to 254 yards for example. Then dial in this distance in MOA + clicks. This will allow you to shoot with confidence at your intended game at the shorter distances by simply aiming at the center of the kill zone. Then for the longer distances (or precision at shorter distances) you have a rock solid 100 yard zero to call home for dialing during an excited circumstance (monster buck at 523 yards).
 
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Roy, As always, I enjoyed your post. More truthfully I enjoyed 4kd's response.

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I'm glad you caught the humor. I hoped it was at least funny but more importantly I hope Roy takes me up on my offer to help him overcome his apprehension to dial. It really is a simple thing if your scope marks are good and it is down right satisfying if you have good turrets.

I hope I didn't chase Roy off. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Long time, no post, cheers eveyone. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif


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As for BDC's, I was always turned off by the fact you'd be locked into a single load under a single set of conditions. A new $50 knob every time you switch loads, go hunting at a different altitude, etc would get real old I thought. But recently I've been experimenting with making my own to tape onto the turret.

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I must say that I have started to like these BDC knobs a lot. I got a scope with that kind of turret almost by accident and I have been quite a lucky hunter ever since. I use one 300 WM load for all my deer and moose "sniping" so my Karl Kaps Sniper 2.5-10 x 56 turret is calibrated for it. In practise this is very easy for the brain - and my hunting is probably never past 500 meters unless there´s a wounded animal. I routinely practise at 500 m max, hard to find places to shoot much longer. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif The scale goes to 700 m which I have confirmed. I practise with my hunting ammo.

For other loads I have printed tapes that stay under my Tikka T3 Tactical cheekpiece. Say, "SMK168 1=150 , 2=280,3=400,4=520,5=640,6=760" etc. (numbers came just off my head) Very little thinking needed to dial in. Or the other way round "500= 4+2" if you like. I have another turret that I may modify for another load but... probably not. Changing turrets is easy but there´s always that tiny chance for screwing things up.

My other, "real long range rifle" ( TRG-S 338 LM )was being re-stocked and I got this combo in a little panic two years ago when the TRG-S stock broke. That one is being used with a "normal" mildot scope and I am comfortable with clicks as well. It can reach much longer, obviously. But for these shorter hunting ranges, I must say it´s nice and easy to shoot , say, 200 , 400 , and 500 meter targets within a few seconds in a row - and hit good.

One rifle, one scope, one turret, one load. Zero 100. K.I.S.S. suits me in practical hunting situations. Anyone can hit an A4 500 m target with this rifle - assuming the shooter has some idea of the possible wind. I shot a 55 mm three shot group at 500m today using 5x magnification, it was 3" to the right from an A4 target center. I let the wind do its thing... Lapua Mira is my boolit, it is an amazing, discontinued big game bullet. Kills close, kills far and is so accurate... well, it´s not "Berger-accurate" of course but very good anyway.


There are holdover lines in this scope too but I never use them. Another matter of taste - but especially with an illuminated (center only) reticle, I see little use for holdover stuff at all. I do know where one kilometer is for 168 SMK but well... not needed here as long as we have peace. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

( If I was living in a place where longer shots were needed, I´d make a drum that starts at 300 and zero there. That way it would go up to 1000 or so and I could hold under when closer than 300. Longer than that would be another scope and normal turrets, too many variables for anything fixed anyway. Maybe all this simplifying stuff just comes with age... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif And my targets are moose, not gophers. These 1 cm clicks wouldn´t do with gophers. )
 
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