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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Scope choice for my Lazzeroni
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<blockquote data-quote="CatShooter" data-source="post: 157785" data-attributes="member: 7"><p>[ QUOTE ]</p><p>I own a Lazzeroni 7.82 warbird that is shooting a 180 gr hornady at about 3500 fps using rl-25. I have it zeroed now at 300 with my leupold 6.5-20x and have bagged elk easily from 100 to 500 yds. But I have found a place where I could set my watch by the elk coming out, only it is about 1000 yds out from the closest vantage point. I think my gun will do just fine as well as myself with some practice. But my question is about my scope setup. I do not have turrets and even then it seems at 1/4 moa per click it would take alot of turning to get to the correct setting even if it would go that far, and then who knows where in the scale I am if I lose count. Any help? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif </p><p></p><p>[/ QUOTE ]</p><p></p><p>I'll start off by saying that an elk at 1,000 yds is NOT twice as far as an elk 500 yds - it is YEARS of experence and training farther.</p><p></p><p>If you have been shooting elk at 300 to 500, you are not ready to shoot them at 1,000.</p><p></p><p>Nor is it a matter of just picking the "right" scope.</p><p></p><p>That being said (and I'm sure it will be ignored), get a scope with 1/4 clicks, and 15 moa per turn, like the Leupold VX-III scopes, with 1" tubes.</p><p></p><p>Set the scope up in Burris "Signature ZEE" rings, and use what ever combination of inserts necessary to allow you to zero the scope at 100 yds, with the elevation turret all the way at the bottom of the adjustment.</p><p></p><p>This done, zero the rifle at 100, and set the turret at "0".</p><p></p><p>Now, you can loose track of what clicks you are on, cus it's easy to "go to zero" and count up in moa. Less than 2 revolutions of the turret will take you to 1,000yds. So if your 1,000 zero is 28 moa, then you go one turn and 13 moa, and you are on.</p><p></p><p>This is the simple part... there is baro to take into account, which does not come into play at 300 to 500yds. Plus "cant" and temperature, and... and... and... and...</p><p></p><p>I would STRONGLY suggest that you spend a year or two whacking steel plates at 1,000 yds, before wounding and loosing an elk at that distance.</p><p></p><p>Long range shooting/hunting, is NOT about the equipment, it's about the "art" and it doesn't come in a box.</p><p></p><p>If you can make the statement <strong>"... and even then it seems at 1/4 moa per click it would take a lot of turning to get to the correct setting even if it would go that far, and then who knows where in the scale I am if I lose count."</strong>...</p><p>... you are not ready.</p><p></p><p>It's like saying you have a Corvette and you want to pass at 120mph, but how will you know what gear you are in, if you can't look down at the transmission....</p><p>... if you have to look at the gear shift, DON'T PASS!</p><p></p><p>What range your scope is set for should be second nature for you in the field... if you you have these questions, you are not ready.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="CatShooter, post: 157785, member: 7"] [ QUOTE ] I own a Lazzeroni 7.82 warbird that is shooting a 180 gr hornady at about 3500 fps using rl-25. I have it zeroed now at 300 with my leupold 6.5-20x and have bagged elk easily from 100 to 500 yds. But I have found a place where I could set my watch by the elk coming out, only it is about 1000 yds out from the closest vantage point. I think my gun will do just fine as well as myself with some practice. But my question is about my scope setup. I do not have turrets and even then it seems at 1/4 moa per click it would take alot of turning to get to the correct setting even if it would go that far, and then who knows where in the scale I am if I lose count. Any help? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] [/ QUOTE ] I'll start off by saying that an elk at 1,000 yds is NOT twice as far as an elk 500 yds - it is YEARS of experence and training farther. If you have been shooting elk at 300 to 500, you are not ready to shoot them at 1,000. Nor is it a matter of just picking the "right" scope. That being said (and I'm sure it will be ignored), get a scope with 1/4 clicks, and 15 moa per turn, like the Leupold VX-III scopes, with 1" tubes. Set the scope up in Burris "Signature ZEE" rings, and use what ever combination of inserts necessary to allow you to zero the scope at 100 yds, with the elevation turret all the way at the bottom of the adjustment. This done, zero the rifle at 100, and set the turret at "0". Now, you can loose track of what clicks you are on, cus it's easy to "go to zero" and count up in moa. Less than 2 revolutions of the turret will take you to 1,000yds. So if your 1,000 zero is 28 moa, then you go one turn and 13 moa, and you are on. This is the simple part... there is baro to take into account, which does not come into play at 300 to 500yds. Plus "cant" and temperature, and... and... and... and... I would STRONGLY suggest that you spend a year or two whacking steel plates at 1,000 yds, before wounding and loosing an elk at that distance. Long range shooting/hunting, is NOT about the equipment, it's about the "art" and it doesn't come in a box. If you can make the statement [b]"... and even then it seems at 1/4 moa per click it would take a lot of turning to get to the correct setting even if it would go that far, and then who knows where in the scale I am if I lose count."[/b]... ... you are not ready. It's like saying you have a Corvette and you want to pass at 120mph, but how will you know what gear you are in, if you can't look down at the transmission.... ... if you have to look at the gear shift, DON'T PASS! What range your scope is set for should be second nature for you in the field... if you you have these questions, you are not ready. [/QUOTE]
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Scope choice for my Lazzeroni
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