Discussion in 'Technical Articles - Discussion' started by ADMIN, Aug 16, 2009.

Savage Tactical Rifle Project

  1. ADMIN

    ADMIN Administrator

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    This is a thread for discussion of the article, Savage Tactical Rifle Project, By Jerry Teo. Here you can ask questions or make comments about the article.
     
  2. geargrinder

    geargrinder Well-Known Member

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    Nice job Jerry. I really like what you did with the stock. Just shows that you don't have to throw away the plastic stock.
     

  3. foreign

    foreign Well-Known Member

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    jerry what you do with a standard factory rifle and the end product is impressive.
    i am currently in the process of attempting to do something similar. have put a stevens action into a choate varmint stock. after seeing what you did to the plastic stock im going to try something similar.
    saving for a trueflite barrel( local nz maker)
    could you elaborate on the timing of the bolt handle... eg how you did it, the process ect.
    cheers
    rob
     
  4. Eaglet

    Eaglet Well-Known Member

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    Jerry,

    Great reading, awesome job, beautiful work... What else can I say?

    You are an artist, that's art... Not as easy for a none gifted person

    like me. My friend geargrinder is working on a little project for me, The

    only person that likes him. We'll see how it turns out. :) :D
     
  5. TrophyHunter_colorado

    TrophyHunter_colorado Well-Known Member

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    Jerry,

    I loved the stock that you built you have me started on my own stock. I have a couple of questions.

    What did you do to the shilen barrel to fit the rail system? could you just modify the rail?

    On the stock for your cheek rest did you modify a piece of 2x4 or did you use plywood?

    To fit the pistol grip to the stock did you just inser a piece of wood right behind were the trigger gaurds screws in?

    Thanks for your time.
     
  6. loaders_loft

    loaders_loft Well-Known Member

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    This was a decent article about modifying a synthetic stock. If you're looking at getting a custom stock, and you have some time on your hands, its a good example of what you can do with the "takeoff" stock. I liked the article for this reason.


    What I hoped to see in this article was some description (&pics) of swapping a savage barrel, timing & replacing the bolt handle, adjusting the trigger and even swapping the bolt face. The article mentioned these activities but lacked any description. I don't discount the article for glossing over these details, just wasn't what I expected.:)

    My savage rifle will be here soon and I'm interested in swapping barrels, which is what caught my interest in this topic.

    I'll do a search on the forums and see what pops up.

    Maybe someone can point me to a good post or site for more info on the action & barrel specifically?
     
  7. Bull45cal.

    Bull45cal. Well-Known Member

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    Marvelous, simply marvelous!
     
  8. Mysticplayer

    Mysticplayer Writers Guild

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    Glad that you have all enjoyed the article. Will try and answer some of the questions and comments so far.

    Anytime you need to do shaping, it is easier to use the 2x4 or any 'soft' lumber. Plywood can be shaped but it is usually denser and leaves ridges along the harder glue lines. There are also void between the layers which are exposed as you shape the wood. This adds more work and can leave unsightly lines in the finished product.

    Solid wood is easier to shape and finish. Use plywood where you need more structural strength and it can be used to create 'flat' surfaces. Ideal places for plywood is making forends wider or in the bottom of the buttstock.

    The shilen barrel was simply turned down in a lathe so that is had a constant diameter equal to the muzzle. You can see where the barrel was tapered down in the pics.

    Yes, you can modify the rail BUT I didn't have a proper shaper and the Alum is quite hard to sand. I did 'grind' the rails in a few areas to fit. The main reason for turning down the barrel was the keep the rail looking thick and durable. If the barrel channel of the rail was thinned down alot, it would not be very durable and may even get flexible - not very strong.

    The location of the pistol grip wood was indexed off the actual grip. I wanted the recess at the top of the grip to flow into the trigger guard giving the illusion of a one piece part or at least a combo that was intended to go together.

    A bit of cut/shaping to make it all line up then a solid application of epoxy to hold it all in place. There is a long screw that penetrates the grip handle, mounting block and stock (quite solid in this area). The screw adds some additional mechanical support to bending and twisting. Should help prevent cracks from developing in this area too.

    I decided not to get into descriptions of work that would open myself and this site to liability. Although the work is straightforward to swap bolt heads, bolt timing and barrel swapping, any mistakes or carelessness can lead to injury or rifle malfunctions.

    There are other sites and blogs with info and a bit of searching can give you the info you would want. Either that or use a gunsmith to ensure your safety.

    savageshooters.com and frankford arsenal/midwayusa have info on the work you are interested in. The trigger manfs include instructions for install and set up.

    Bolt timing is adjusting the bolt so that bolt lift is made much easier, smoother. Gets rid of the heavy lift and clunky engagements of the hammer.

    Look forward to your questions, comments and most importantly, YOUR PROJECTS.

    Get some epoxy, a 2X4 and get creative. There are many gorgeous stocks that started life as a plastic throw away.

    Enjoy...

    Jerry
     
  9. Bull45cal.

    Bull45cal. Well-Known Member

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    Mr. Teo,

    Can you please elaborate on the switching of one barrel between multiple receivers/rifles, and achieving the same results with the same load? Particularly, head spacing. Are you using a head space gauge? (Go or No-Go?) Is their a specific way to swap a barrel out and duplicate these results, or is it just simply following the normal barrel swap procedure?

    Any thoughts on why this happens?

    Thanks,
    Shane
     
  10. Mysticplayer

    Mysticplayer Writers Guild

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    I used a sized case similar to the ammo as the headspace guage. The barrel swap is identical for any savage action using the barrel nut.It goes to show how well these actions are made at the factory, how the floating bolt head resolves the problems common to all solid front locking actions, how the barrel is pretty much the determinent for how a rifle shoots assuming that there are no serious flaws in the barrel install.I did this to test a variety of technical questions I had about barrels, barrel installs and the affects on performance.I have never felt that the action was the limiting factor on how well a barrel shot. It definitely limits the pressures you can load to but with almost the entire case held in the chamber, I really didn't think an extractor groove would affect accuracy much. BUT???????Lock time on a Savage is equal/better then all modern actions so not an issue common with surplus action build ups. The action is strong and can handle operating pressures equal/better then all modern actions so there would be no fear of flex/distortion as being a problem.The floating bolt head and how the action is cut ensures that the lugs MUST make contact with the action - not so in solid front lock bolts. This eliminates any issues with bolt head flex affecting ignition and the support of the case during expansion. The lock up is as tight as any lapped action.Also, that floating bolt head ensures that bolt body movement would not affect the harmonics or lug contact. A very common problem in other actions. Some day if funds allow, I would like to build up a rifle where the action is actually cut so there is no contact front to rear. That will really highlight how that floating bolt head isolates the chamber/lug area from the mag and rear of the action.So the only issue left was methods of headspacing and bore alignment. The Savage is pretty true from the factory and the barrel nut install can offer a bit of a fudge factor in keeping things aligned. The result is that cases are properly supported even when pressures get toasty and accuracy is excellent/repeatable.By moving one barrel to various actions, this just proved to me the benefits mentioned above. It works and you can try this yourself. Just ensure that the action is properly bedded into the stock and the barrel not overly heavy. If you are going with a long heavy barrel, just bed under the barrel nut and all it well.Hope this helps...Jerry
     
  11. Gondini

    Gondini Well-Known Member

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    Sweet gun Very Sweet Gun, where did you get the pistol grip from, was there all wood under the grip??? Could you have done a thumb hole in the stock the same way????
     
  12. Mysticplayer

    Mysticplayer Writers Guild

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    The grip came from an EBAY supplier. There are many options if you have a look. Very good quality for the money spent. yes, the mounting area is wood and fully supports the grip.If you look at an AR grip, you will see that it is hollow at the top but there is a cross piece which the mounting bolt goes through. A tab on the receiver fits into this hollow and the bolt screws into the tab.You just replicate this by mounting a hunk of wood in the stock and mount the grip to it. SimpleYes, you can easily build a thumbhole stock. Just mount a larger piece of lumber and open up the area for the thumbhole.There is no design you can't cut and paste to build. Jerry
     
  13. LANKY

    LANKY New Member

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    where did you purchase the extended mag?
     
  14. geargrinder

    geargrinder Well-Known Member

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    Last paragraph of page 3.

    It's a Sharp Shooter Supply.