Savage Model 10 FPSR in .308. Need bedding advice.

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by okangshooter, Jan 4, 2012.

  1. okangshooter

    okangshooter Member

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    May 13, 2011
    Anyone here glass bedded their Savage? My gun is an"ok" shooter. MOA most of the time. It is in the stock listed in the title. I have the unexplained fliers sometimes and the gun will never clover leaf any three shots at 100 yards. I'd expect better out of this gun.

    This stock has an aluminum bedding block and the action screws are torqued to 60 inch lbs. It did improve with the addition of my ACC Cyclone supressor but still has a ways to go accuracy wise.

    Can I get away with just glass bedding and not pillar bedding? I'm not really set up tool wise to drill the tolerance needed to fit the pillars straight and true.

    I've been reading everything Ican find and watching youtube vids on bedding. I believe I can do the glass.

    Anyone bed their savage?
     
  2. rscott5028

    rscott5028 Well-Known Member

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    I'm not familiar with the gun/stock. But, if it has a proper aluminum bedding block, then you shouldn't likely need pillars. Skim bedding with Devcon, Marine Tex, or JB Weld should be adequate.

    There are lots of troubleshooting threads here. Are you confident that the scope, mounts, rings, ammo, rest, technique, etc... are all correct and stress free?

    Savages are highly touted as very accurate. But, a bad barrel and such will slip through from time to time.

    JMHO
    -- richard
     

  3. okangshooter

    okangshooter Member

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    Pretty sure scope, rings, and base are not to blame. After I shoot it tomorrow I'm going to take the action out of the stock and look for marks where there might be uneven pressure.

    My plan is to glass bed it.
     
  4. concordshooter

    concordshooter Active Member

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    Aug 19, 2011
    I've had good and bad with savage factory barrels, first I would do for any problem rifle if you have the ability, redo the crown, second for bedding with alum block rough it up with 80 grit paper and clean with acetone, I use devcon, but acraglass gell or jb will work just messier, mainly part to bed is the lug even with alum block, there is clearance at the lug, the problem area for savages is the rear screw hole, do what you can around the cutout, it will help just skim the blocks, you can bed 2-3 inches of the barrel, sometimes that helps sometimes not, the rear tang some say too float it some bed it, just make sure its not binding when tightening action screws down, the scope base, sometimes a reciever is too small diameter or scope base isn't right, little skim bedding under the base can do wonders on a finicky rifle,
     
  5. okangshooter

    okangshooter Member

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    I have a question about the small piece of stainless steel that is directly behind the magazine and between the rear blocks.
    [​IMG]

    The action rides directly onto this piece when assembled. There are wear marks on the reciever from it. Is it ok to glass over this as it will become permanent.
     
  6. concordshooter

    concordshooter Active Member

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    I actually have never worked with a detach mag version, if it was me I would bed that part so it has no movement, you could bed under it and around it and still be able too remove it, but you don't want any part too be able to move , that would look like a certain problem area too me.
     
  7. Dr. Vette

    Dr. Vette Well-Known Member

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    You could check on Savageshooters.com but I believe that most leave it in place and bed it right in.
     
  8. okangshooter

    okangshooter Member

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    Well the action has been in the accra glass for 4 hours now. The excess I cleaned off of the stock seems to be setting up nicely.

    Now we wait.......:rolleyes: