Savage barrel shank diameter question.

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by stidsteak, Mar 6, 2009.

  1. stidsteak

    stidsteak Active Member

    Messages:
    44
    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2008
    Lurking for quite a bit. I came to this site for more knowledge/entertainment and now I have a dilema of my own.

    Ok so I am faced with a dilema that cannot be solved with simply getting a tape measure and my weapon out of the safe as I am currently overseas. I am going to re-barrel my 2006 savage 110fp 300 win mag. Upon hearing my friend's advisory I ordered a barrel with threads for a large shank. As far as whether or not this was the right choice I don't know seeing as I've received conflicting information on this. My 2006 model has a "G" prefix to in it's serial number. What size is it? How difficult is it to replace the existing larger threads with the standard size without cutting off that part of the barrel completely (straight cylinder). Is it even possible to do that? If not I will keep the existing barrel and have it reamed for a larger cartridge (rum?) and get a new one made with the correct sized threads. It'd be nice to know soon so that I can have another barrel to shoot while I'm on R&R.

    2006 savage 110fp
    300 win mag
    serial number has a "g" prefix
    please help

    Oh I may as well tell more about the firearm in it's existing state.
    A-5 stock with thumbwheel adjustable coomb
    McCann Industries 20moa rails
    standard barrel w/muzzle break
    bedding underneath barrel only
    reason for barrel switch is the inability hold less than 3/4 moa
     
  2. geargrinder

    geargrinder Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,972
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2006
    Your action is a small shank. The only large shank actions are the WSM's, RUM's, and Target actions. Serial numbers don't play into the equation.

    You have two choices. Both are easy and should not cost much.

    You can have the threads turned down on your barrel, or you can have the threads opened up on your action.

    Your accuracy problem may come from the bedding under the barrel. It should free float. You should bed the action from the recoil lug to the rear action screw. Make sure the tang where the safety is, is free floated.
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2009

  3. stidsteak

    stidsteak Active Member

    Messages:
    44
    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2008
    Thanks for the info. The accuracy was actually worse before the bedding which is only on a portion of the barrel just forward of the barrel nut. Going to see if I can still salvage the existing barrel for later use on a lighter weight rig by recrowning it since the crown does look a bit like it was done on a Friday afternoon at the factory. I do need to bed the action. What would be your preferred method and what kit should I use?
     
  4. geargrinder

    geargrinder Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,972
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2006
    I use JB Weld and Kiwi Natural shoe polish. I've had very good success with them.

    Does your stock have pillars? I'd go that route as well while you're at it.

    Even though it was an improvement, I'd remove the bedding from the barrel.

    If you decide to ditch the barrel, let me know. I'm always looking for Savage barrels.
     
  5. stidsteak

    stidsteak Active Member

    Messages:
    44
    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2008
    Kiwi to keep the JB weld from sticking to the barreled action?
     
  6. geargrinder

    geargrinder Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,972
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2006
    Exactly. It's also easier if you take the trigger assembly off.

    JB takes a little while to completely set. I've usually been able to pop out the action and trim everything up before it is completely hard. Then I reassemble everything and let it sit until completely set.

    I only bed the face of the recoil lug that faces the action. I put a layer of tape around the edges and barrel side of the lug for clearance.

    That's about it. Just don't bed beyond the rear action screw.
     
  7. winmagman

    winmagman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,379
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2003
    Stidsteak,

    Double check with Savage(1-413-568-7001), but I checked Sharp Shooters Supply and they say a G prefix usually designates a LARGE shank action. Sharp Shooter Supply - The Savage Specialists Read the barrel shank section.

    Chris
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2009
  8. stidsteak

    stidsteak Active Member

    Messages:
    44
    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2008
    I am so confused right now. I'm just going to call Savage.
     
  9. Armed in Utah

    Armed in Utah Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    83
    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2002
    The 'G' series I have are all small shank...although I have no WSM chambered Savage rifles..although I do have three 'M' series which are s/shot large shank rifles...they started out as 223 SA s/shots....They now wear Pac Nor custom SS SM heavy barrels in 20 Practical....223 AI & 260 AI....I have been told they were left over ML actions before Savage changed the ML action...I would bet a dollar to a donut that your 300 Win 'G' series is a small shank....just like my previous 110 FP 300 Win was......
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2009
  10. skamaniac

    skamaniac Member

    Messages:
    21
    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2009
    I have a Mod 16 BGH (special distributor run) with a "G" series serial number. It appears to be a small shank as it does not "step down" in front of the barrel nut as described on the SSS Tech page.
     
  11. Coyboy

    Coyboy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,132
    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2005
    I had a SS 7mm-08 purchased in about 2000, it was a large shank short action.

    I have also seen SS varmit actions that were large shank.