Savage and DuraCoat Shake N' Spray

Discussion in 'Gun Photos' started by rinodods, Apr 4, 2011.

  1. rinodods

    rinodods Well-Known Member

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    Got a chance to try out the new Duracoat DIY kit. Nothing but good things to say. Kit was very easy to use and I had no issues getting everything to work as it should have. The spay system held strong the whole time. After three coats on all the parts I still would have had enough to do another rifle. Wish I had gotten another ready to go. lol I'll have more pictures of the process and kit up at the site listed with my profile later.

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    Check out a couple pics of the results. Savage 260 Rem build | Project Savage



    Got a small review on the kit and process here. Duracoat Shake N Spray | Project Savage
     
  2. BenY 2013

    BenY 2013 Well-Known Member

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    Cool I was wanting to do the same thing with one of my rifles, looks good.

    If I may ask which color is that??? There are so many its not even funny. Thanks
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2011

  3. rcdinaz

    rcdinaz Well-Known Member

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    That looks great!

    I was wondering about that kit and wanting to do the same thing.

    Couple of questions: Any issues with the smaller parts of the action operating smoothly or the duracoat staying in place?

    Also I noticed you did not plug the holes in the action any issue when putting the bases/scope back on?

    How much were the kits going for?

    Thanks!
     
  4. rinodods

    rinodods Well-Known Member

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    No issues thus far. I have only worked everything a few times and it isn't fully cured yet but I haven't noticed any binding or scratching of the finish. I also didn't really notice any finish getting into the action screw holes. I ran a screw down each hole about an hour after I was done spraying just in case. I wasn't very worried about that since I knew it would still be fairly soft for a while. I probably should have put something in them actually but everything turned out just great.
     
  5. D.ID

    D.ID Well-Known Member

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    Your timing could not be better as I just started looking into that kit tonight. I have used duracoat before but it was a pain and this looks like a much better set up. The big question ..................Is that a stainless barrel or just in the white? Did you sand it and if so how course? Thanks for posting.
     
  6. rinodods

    rinodods Well-Known Member

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    Yes it was a stainless barrel. I just used the abrasive pad that was included with the kit. It did a decent job of dulling it up. I think if you check the DuraCoat guide table you'll find they suggest you can lightly sand with 600 grit sandpaper if you can't blast the part. I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to hit it with the 600 grit as well. Not sure you'd need it though. They are great at getting back to you on questions so shoot them an email and see if they feel you might need to go beyond the pad that is included on stainless. As I mentioned in the article the directions are very minimal.
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2011
  7. D.ID

    D.ID Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, again.
     
  8. BenY 2013

    BenY 2013 Well-Known Member

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    What bolt is that? I mean is it aftermarket? Thanks
     
  9. rinodods

    rinodods Well-Known Member

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    The handle is from brownells. If you look at my website with the build info I think I have most of the parts listed linked to where I bought them. Or at least a source for them at decent prices.

    Savage 260 Rem build | Project Savage
     
  10. electric481

    electric481 New Member

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    Apr 21, 2011
    Not happy, not happy at all. I ordered this product on line for $43 including shipping. The product did arrive quickly and well packaged, and the "concept" is sound enough I suppose, but I am definitely disappointed. It looks likes the standard Duracoat is designed to be applied with a HVLV airbrush setup. The Shake N' Spray's application was no different to apply than a standard can of spray paint, with the duracoat being sucked up through a siphon tube which draws the duracoat from a glass container. That being said, here's the follow up. (By the way, I totally field stripped my weapon, pre-cleaned, and then followed the manufactures directions to the "T").

    After hours of prepping and cleaning comes time to shoot the color. One thing that the instructions don't spell out, but is rather obvious, is that the color does not spray right away, it has to be siphoned into the tube and up to the tip. Understanding this I gave it a couple of quick hits to prime the unit, and once I had the product flowing I began to spray my gun parts. With the first pass, the tip blew out a small load of "crap", that could best be described as residue or something left over from the manufacturing process. So in the first 1/2" second it looks like somebody tossed about a pinch of small sand particles into the coating. Not Good. Luckily I had some paper towels handy and was able to quickly remedy that situation. Continuing on, I noticed that the flow through the tube was not smooth at all. The spray button was stiff and difficult to use, it was as if there was no middle ground. So after pressing hard enough to allow the product to flow, it comes out rather quickly, but at least the race is on. After finishing one piece, I moved on to a second with the same unpredictable and erratic results. About 2 seconds into the second piece, I noticed a run. In unbelief, I inspected the first piece, and low and behold, another run. Now, before anybody jumps in with a comment about distance from the object being painted and continuousness overlapping strokes, and yada yada yada.....I am aware. I have done plenty of painting in my days, from cars to, furniture, to about everything else, so I do get the point on how to paint. I have had better flow and control from an 89 cent spray can from Walmart. Once the runs are there, it's all over. The parts were hanging, and even though I knew it wouldn't work, I attempted to wipe the run (I was desperate). How do you wipe a run from a hanging part? Well, ya gotta touch it. Not pretty. Now, keeping in mind, that this product may perform perfect once it cures, and it might even look good if it applied with a proper air brush, the shake 'N Spray is two thumbs down in my book. Now I have to let it dry, and attempt to sand of a product that is designed to not be taken off. If I am successful with returning the 2 pieces of hardware to their paint ready state, how long will the duracoat last in the bottle once the hardener is installed. If it does last, I now have to haul everything to a buddy who has the proper equipment. So, in closing...I'm out $43. I have 2 guns down, one of which is my primary home defense and E.D.C, more unwarranted work ahead of me in repairing the damage, and a very bad taste in my mouth for this product. In the end, good luck with your decision.
     
  11. D.ID

    D.ID Well-Known Member

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    Sorry to hear it. You must have got a bad rattle can. I just used this system for the first time today. I sprayed both my T3 and my 116 using one od green kit and it worked like a charm. I was initially concerned until I realized I was habitually shaking the can every time I stopped, once I broke myself of that it worked great and very consistent. I personally found the air brush set up and clean up to be a pain and a deterrent. This experience this morning has me looking at a whole pile of rifles and a couple side arms that could use some color. I think in light of your experience I will get an extra spray can or two in case I get a bad one. I do not know but expect the duracoat will be unusable very quickly since the hardener was mixed. I am very happy about my recent experience, sorry to hear yours was not as smooth.
     
  12. rinodods

    rinodods Well-Known Member

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    Sorry to hear you had problems. Have you contacted them yet? I've heard of others having issues with airbrush kits getting replacements from them. Give them a chance to make it right. They might send you a replacement kit. Sounds like your kit really had issues with the preval system. I didn't experience any issues with runs of course I spent some time on a test sheet of cardboard to see how it coated before I started spraying any parts. This way I also had time to address issues with the spray system before I started hitting any of the parts. Let us know if you get in touch with the manufacturer and how that goes. As for how long the duracoat lasts after hardener is added I think there is something in the Duracoat guide on their website on that. Look around the FAQ's.

    Your current finish should be fairly easy to remove with just some acetone and maybe a green scotch bright pad. Since it hasn't cured yet I think you'll be ok.
     
  13. noneck180

    noneck180 Well-Known Member

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    If a guy was going to use an HVLP spray gun, which is better the gravity or syphon? I have heard the syphon is better because the heavy particles will settle at the bottom. Not sure ..
     
  14. threejones

    threejones Well-Known Member

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    I've been a professional painter for years, homes, cars, guns, bikes, helmets, you name it. The gravity vs syphon debate is on going. The heavy particles will settle, but you should strain all paint that goes into any sprayer. Also, if the paint does have any "heavy" particles, the best thing to do is to keep them in suspension (stirring or shaking or whatever) as those particles are usually there for a reason. Equipment wise, it's more a matter of the kind of paint you're using and job size. I have both, and use them regularly. I seem to use my syphon feed most, but I really don't have a good reason, it just seems to come up more often. My best advise, 1)don't get a cheap one. As with all guns, you will usually get exactly what you pay for. 2) Mind how and what you thin your paint with. Most kits come ready to go, but off-the-shelf paints usually need to be thinned to spray well. Oh yeah, almost forgot, experiment ALOT before you spray anything you really like(or payed a bunch of $$$ for) It'll save you having a bunch of messed up ugly crap like I do! Good luck!