Savage 12 F-Class Rebarrel

Discussion in 'Long Range Hunting & Shooting' started by rscott5028, Jan 26, 2011.

  1. rscott5028

    rscott5028 Well-Known Member

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    I have a Savage 12F-Class rifle in 6.5x284.

    It's all factory right now and shoots great. But, I was thinking of rebarreling to 6mm br for fun which sounds very easy.

    However, what would be the biggest (long range) cartridge I could rebarrel to without major mods other than the rebarrel and bolt head swap?

    In other words, I want to do it myself without a smith and still maintain sane safety levels.

    I beleive it's classified as short action. But, as a single feed I would not necessarily be opposed to removing the bolt to load/unload rounds.

    Thanks in advance!
    Richard
     
  2. load

    load Well-Known Member

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    most short mags (wsm) will work you may have to work on the feed lips also

    a good way to check is to measure your mag well and the overall cartrige length you would like. 7mm wsm,300wsm,325wsm all come to mind as builds i have seen.
    rebarreling is easy even though you may want to take it to a gun smith to get the barrel off with to start. they torque it down to 100# at the factory. when you install a new one all you need is 50 to 60 # (helps if you want it a switch barrel) tools can be found at brownells or savage shooter supply. there are two types one for smooth nut one for for large/small shank. mine cost 40$ at sss.
    when you reinstall your barrel you'll need head guages one in "go" and one in "no go" or the laymans way is a regular shell for a "go" add 3 pieces of clear scotch tape to primer end of shell for "no go" .
    screw the barrel in on the "go" untill it stops agaist the bolt head, hand tighten the barrel nut, check with the "no go" if the action will close tightn the barrel alittle more against the bolt until it wont close then check again with the "go" to see if it will still close. next with the "go" guage in place in the bore tighen down the barrel nut. it helps to hold the barrel with something so as not to tighten the unit as a whole and have to start over (also were steel guages come into play instead of brass)
    if you plan on taking your barrel off yourself make sure not to twist the action. i made a simple tool out of the original stock (has custom now) by cutting off the forend at the shank so i could fit the tool around the barrel nut. i then locked the stock into my bench vise and used a plastic dead blow to loosen the factory nut. some people use two blocks of wood and a vise for a BARREL VISE (do not do this on the action you may twist it) to do the samethig however i found this alot harder than the stock trick.

    its alot of fun and satisfying when complete. good luck

    any questions along the way the good people at savage shooters forum can really help. some there have 300 ultras on short actions but they are single shots and require removal of bolt to load/unload
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2011

  3. liltank

    liltank Well-Known Member

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    416 Rigby and the like! My cousin has a 338 Lapua on a target action and has had zero problems. Get the bolt face, slap the caliber of your choice to it, and gun)! Can't beat a Savage! Most versatile platform out there.

    Tank
     
  4. rscott5028

    rscott5028 Well-Known Member

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  5. liltank

    liltank Well-Known Member

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    That one should work. His is Stainless, but I'm sure it will fit your bolt. Pretty sure the 110BA is a long target action. Might want to call Savage to verify it will fit your bolt. I think he may have gotten his through SSS. Not sure, I'll ask him for you.

    Tank
     
  6. liltank

    liltank Well-Known Member

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    Just talked to him. He said they used a normal bolt face and opened it up. If I remember correctly, they used a 223 bolt face due to the ejector position making it the best option for this type of use and caliber. I would bet the 110BA would fit.

    Tank
     
  7. load

    load Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Jan 26, 2011
  8. rscott5028

    rscott5028 Well-Known Member

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    The 338LM sounds exciting. But, some people raise concerns about the suitability of this action. Others go on to state that the 110BA is beefed up to handle the extra pressure/bolt thrust.

    On the other hand, Savage sells the 338 Win Mag on this action. So, one might infer that it's safe to build.

    I assume the 338 Edge is somewhere in between. But, how could one determine that it's safe to build in this action without maiming one's self?

    Also, is the Berger 338 hybrid still made/sold? And, is it really a .8 BC? If so, does anyone shoot this bullet from a 338 Win Mag? Or, is there a better long range 338 Bullet?

    Thanks!
     
  9. liltank

    liltank Well-Known Member

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    Right now that rifle I told you about is being restocked in a Stockade target stock and has a pain killer break on it. It has fired upwards of 500rnds and still going strong. He has even shot high pressure loads and has use of his fingers, and eyes. He has shot everything from 225's up to the 300SMK. He is planning on ordering the Hybrid Berger and putting it through its paces. It's safe. The BA action I believe was designed by Stiller Actions. It is beefier. I would love to get my hands on one, but they won't sell it as a component.

    Tank
     
  10. backwoods83

    backwoods83 Well-Known Member

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    They will hold a 338 edge which takes a slight advantage over the lapua, and you can feed them in at a sharp angle with out bolt removal, savage actions are strong especially the target actions, solid floor no mag well, and the regular mag bolt face can be modified for the lapuas and large weatherbys.
     
  11. rscott5028

    rscott5028 Well-Known Member

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    Wth the main difference between 338LM vs 338Edge being the boltface in terms of not having to machine anything...

    Here's what I think needs to be done...

    start with a Savage 12 F-Class Rifle
    purchase barrel wrench and barrel vise (possibly wood blocks)

    Do I need a special wrench to hold the reciever to avoid twisting it?

    Shilen 30", 1:10 twist, throat +.050, stainless heavy barrel, threadded for a brake
    (Shilen - because they are just down the road a piece.)

    Savage standard magnum replacement bolt head

    Remington 300 RUM brass
    CCI 250 primers
    H1000 powder
    Berger 300gr Hybrid Bullets or Sierra 300gr SMK

    What do I use for go/no-go guages? Can these be ordered for 338 Edge?

    What do I use for dies? Can these be ordered for 338 Edge?

    I still want to do some verification to be sure this is safe. But, it sure sounds doable.

    So after a 500+ rounds, will I be able to revert back to 6mm BR and still shoot accurately? Or, is it going to hammer the reciever lug abutments?

    Thanks!
    Richard
     
  12. backwoods83

    backwoods83 Well-Known Member

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    A go/no go gauge for a 300 rum will work, and I would go with a 28" barrel to keep the harmonics down. And max pressure is max pressure no matter the cartridge so it will not hurt the receiver.
     
  13. rscott5028

    rscott5028 Well-Known Member

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    Good points backwoods83, et. al.

    I just don't have formal training in designing rifles/cartridges. So, I don't want to make any fatal assumptions.

    It's one thing to go with a cartridge that Savage chambers in this particular action at the factory. But, my Lyman handbook shows notably higher pressure for 338RUM and 338LM than the 338 Win Mag which I think is the largest that Savage builds. ...other than the 110BA which may or may not be beefed up.

    On the other hand, safety is not the only reason they choose not to chamber other calibers. Sometimes it's just a matter of the business case.

    If I understand correctly, then you guys are advocating build it and work up the load starting at some point below 338 Win Mag levels and work up gradually. If the case, primer, bolt don't show signs of excessive pressure, then I should be all good? ...whereas overloading any cartridge, even a factory chambered .223 Rem would be dangerous anyway.

    thanks
    richard
     
  14. liltank

    liltank Well-Known Member

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    Yes! Anytime you exceed the max allowed pressures designed of an available caliber, no mater how big or small, you are taking a chance at damaging something. That is why it is important to watch for signs of over pressure like flattened primers, or ejector marks, and a stick bolt lift. These are all causes of pushing a cartridge past its intended pressure curve.

    Tank